blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 19, 2011 8:31:22 GMT
Cheers perps, That for me means that I'll stay with what I have, that V3 is a bit more faff than I can put up with, you could bet your ass that the carto would give out when I was out for the evening
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Scylla
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Post by Scylla on Nov 19, 2011 9:34:35 GMT
I've very little grip in my hands . . . so it's an impossibility for me to over tighten anything I have a postie's red rubber band around my Don for something to grip with thumb and forefinger whilst activating (or trying to) the button.
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PeeKay
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Post by PeeKay on Nov 19, 2011 9:49:11 GMT
Basically, the lesson learnt here is don't screw things on too tight on the don or any mod come to that Never a truer word has been spoken... I feel I need to clarify. At all points when changing anything on the Don, I have the push button in the locked position. The thermal overload only occurred once everything was attached, and I was actually in control (?!?) of the process. Cheers fella - yeah, I'm good. I've even metered the other battery (4.17v at charge) and all seems OK with it thankfully. Yep - did all of that - luckily I had seen the igetcha69 video review of the Don, so had some idea of what I needed to do. I now know that: - Not all carto/tanks/atties are built the same. Take for example the Bud - the centre connector is actually floating and can be moved freely with your nail!!! This kind of explains why it was so easy to ground it.
- 18650 batteries carry enough charge in them to weld metal.
- When mated with the correct delivery system, the Don will be awesomesauce.
I'm sat here with my troublesome Don so you've put the fear of god into me somewhat, PeeKay But my problem is a sticking and/or non-making button. It's quite stiff to press, it seems to catch, and doesn't always make contact, it seems to me. No need to be afraid Scylla - just be careful. As for the sticky switch, I've found that this can be because the battery screw has been wound in too far (makes the activation button impossible to push). I only wind in the screw enough to make the atty fire and no more. I also note in igetcha69's video that the lock pin for him took a short time to bed in - could this be the problem? I've had similar problems with the Don. The 510 connector can damage carto / atomizer connections. I had some Boge cartomizers that would not work on anything else after using them on the Don. The flattened screw inside the 510 connector is to blame. I use a 510 to 510 adapter now when using the Don. This has stopped all the problems. ... Solved my problems with the Don. I had already considered this as an option - you have just made my mind up fully - Jason, fire up the Royal Snail fella! I've also ordered a couple more nylon topped springs to replace the melted one I have and to ensure a spare. While initially disappointed (more annoyed really), I did use it all day yesterday without issue and do not regret my purchase.
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PeeKay
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Post by PeeKay on Nov 19, 2011 9:50:11 GMT
Cheers perps, That for me means that I'll stay with what I have, that V3 is a bit more faff than I can put up with, you could bet your ass that the carto would give out when I was out for the evening Does not stop you having a filled Carto in your pocket, just in case like I do.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 19, 2011 10:07:15 GMT
Cheers perps, That for me means that I'll stay with what I have, that V3 is a bit more faff than I can put up with, you could bet your ass that the carto would give out when I was out for the evening Does not stop you having a filled Carto in your pocket, just in case like I do. Then you may as well put 3 or 4 ready filled carto's in your pocket and not bother with the tank at all lol, fair play to you mate but it's not for me
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bluemagnum
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Post by bluemagnum on Nov 19, 2011 10:17:32 GMT
I feel I need to clarify. At all points when changing anything on the Don, I have the push button in the locked position. The thermal overload only occurred once everything was attached, and I was actually in control (?!?) of the process.
Even in the locked position, if the screw is screwed too far in it will still fire. The screw needs to be adjusted before using the lock facility.
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ian
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Post by ian on Nov 19, 2011 10:45:36 GMT
Cartos dont just die though Blakey,ive NEVER had a carto die on me in any carto tank.Even if it did you could screw off the top cap and drain the tank with a syringe,or just tip the juice back into your bottle,change carto in seconds and away you go again.It vapes better than the lil mama and no cartos sliding about so its a winner for me.I always take a pre holed spare carto out with me just incase but never need it.Its my favourite tank by a long shot,i still like the lil mama but no good to put in your pocket unless you like losing juice.
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ian
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Post by ian on Nov 19, 2011 10:49:34 GMT
Infact thinking about it,ive never ever had a Boge carto die on me either in a tank or used normally.These cartomisers have been extremely long lasting and robust which is why i rate them the best of the best.Kangers seem to wimp off quickly and lose performance but Boges just keep going and going,especially in a tank.
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Post by Perpetua on Nov 19, 2011 10:51:33 GMT
Purely from the appearance POV . . . I'd love Arry to make his Tanks in Stainless as well, they'd just look that wee bit nicer on a shiny. But they get my vote every time, I've always got on well with his Clearo ones as well . . . just as faff free for me.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 19, 2011 11:04:11 GMT
Cartos dont just die though Blakey,ive NEVER had a carto die on me in any carto tank.Even if it did you could screw off the top cap and drain the tank with a syringe,or just tip the juice back into your bottle,change carto in seconds and away you go again.It vapes better than the lil mama and no cartos sliding about so its a winner for me.I always take a pre holed spare carto out with me just incase but never need it.Its my favourite tank by a long shot,i still like the lil mama but no good to put in your pocket unless you like losing juice. I solved the lil mama leaking issue when in the pocket by glueing a very thin washer to the bottom cap to stop the carto from pushing through, the drip tip stops it moving the other way and a little rubber bung seals the hole when changing carto's. You're right about the boges though, I've never had one die on me yet either but with luck like mine I just know the exception to the rule will be when I'm out and about with no syringe for that arry tank
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ian
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Post by ian on Nov 19, 2011 11:06:12 GMT
I would definately agree with that Perpy,an SS V3 would be a great tank for those who have SS mods.Most of my mods are cheap black ones now so i love the V3 as it looks great on them all.I adore this tank on the lavatube and my dual 18650VVs,it looks very smart.Im getting the best vaping experience ive ever had from a selection of five cheaper VVs that are simply power monsters.
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ian
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Post by ian on Nov 19, 2011 11:16:53 GMT
I dont think you would even need a syringe to be fair.Ive just screwed the top cap off the V3 and poured my juice back into my bottle to see if its messy or not :)Juice went straight back into the bottle and not a drop lost.That just leaves you to unscrew the bottom cap,screw in a new carto and screw the caps back in place.I also like the screw caps as you cant damage the tank, and the tube is made from a crack free plastic that doesnt crack when using some of the notorious juices such as cinammon,pear etc.Arry also linked me to some interesting information that there is health issues when using polycarbonate tubing.He found this out when searching for a crack free material for the V3 tube,its called polycarbonate leaching i think.Arry says this new tube is fully FDA compliant,whatever that means ???
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ragjoy
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Post by ragjoy on Nov 19, 2011 11:35:58 GMT
has anyone used the new arry on the GGTB. i have the other chrome capped tank (cant remember the name now) and it works just fine. i would also like to try the arry v3, my slight concern is the mention of an adapter which i dont really like the idea of having to use. also do these tanks need a special drip tip. i like the idea of the screw threads rather than rubber seals raggy................
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PeeKay
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Post by PeeKay on Nov 19, 2011 11:39:09 GMT
Even in the locked position, if the screw is screwed too far in it will still fire. The screw needs to be adjusted before using the lock facility. I agree, and I ensure that the screw only just makes contact when the switch is pushed, meaning that there needs to be full travel on the switch before it fires. Thanks for all the feedback guys. I got my new nylon bung/springs today and have fitted a new one - and the Don is working like a champ now. Chalking one up to experience... blakey - fair enough chap - although I always carry one spare 'just in case'.
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Post by Perpetua on Nov 19, 2011 11:40:29 GMT
Have you got the 510 GGTB cap Raggy?
The Arry V3 screws directly onto it without the need of an adapter.
They take a 510/901 drip tip as well, no need for anything special.
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