ruffdog
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aka Toby
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Last Online Jul 14, 2017 0:17:43 GMT
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Post by ruffdog on Jul 28, 2014 13:06:15 GMT
Just recoiled my protank 3 head. last time I did a microcoil in it and it was a bit naff, resistance kept creeping up and hit 3ohms in the end although was working fine. Started to get a bit of a burnt taste this morning. So took it to bits and the coil was utterly fooked. decided to see if i could just fit a normal coil in there so wrapped 4 times round my ickle screwdriver and bunched the coils up some (but didn't torch or even flame the wire prior to building) it's a 4/3 open coil but close spaced enough so you can pull cotton through it. came in at 2 ohms, cotton through and back on the tank.
oh my, it's spitting and crackling just like it should and tastes great.
Go me.
Just to say, you don't need to microcoil protank heads for a cotton build. As long as the coil spacing is close enough to provide structural integrity for threading cotton through, it worky.
Ruffie.
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ronaldo
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Post by ronaldo on Jul 28, 2014 13:12:24 GMT
its great when it works isn't it
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ruffdog
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aka Toby
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Last Online Jul 14, 2017 0:17:43 GMT
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Post by ruffdog on Jul 28, 2014 13:13:50 GMT
its great when it works isn't it It is. Now if i could figure out how to rebuild iclear 30's single coil without it leaking I'd be a happy pup.
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hijack
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Post by hijack on Jul 28, 2014 14:08:00 GMT
Just to say, you don't need to microcoil protank heads for a cotton build. As long as the coil spacing is close enough to provide structural integrity for threading cotton through, it worky. Ruffie. I do a similar thing with my Penelope as it uses nr-r-nr wire, I have some 1.8 pre-made wires, and if you've ever seen them the wire is very thin. I just twist 2 of them together and wrap them around a former then twist the cotton and thread it through. It works pretty well and you can space the wire once its in place so the gaps between the wraps are even.
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