Dani, P3 or mech with kick?

[Mrsmac]

Lol...pics or it didn't happen @scooby

[Super-Shiny]

If the Dicodes Dani didn't have that gap when atties are fitted i would of said get one, now if the new Provari looked like the Dicodes Dani i would say hands down get it.

I ain't helping am i

[Deleted]

Aug 19, 2014 17:43:04 GMT Ripshod said:

I'm 99.9% sure @johanino has already damaged a magneto. I could be wrong tho

Apart from normal wear and tear er no...

I've shorted it. Dropped it in the gutter. still lived

Magnets wore out after 3 months. i just put spider magnets in - fixed it

[Ripshod]

Aug 19, 2014 20:00:54 GMT @johanino said:

Aug 19, 2014 17:43:04 GMT Ripshod said:

I'm 99.9% sure @johanino has already damaged a magneto. I could be wrong tho

Apart from normal wear and tear er no...

I've shorted it. Dropped it in the gutter. still lived

Magnets wore out after 3 months. i just put spider magnets in - fixed it

Ah, must have been the roller then, my bad.

[Mrsmac]

Gap did someone say gap I hate gaps!

[Deleted]

Aug 19, 2014 19:23:28 GMT Mrsmac said:

Lol...pics or it didn't happen @scooby

You'll have to watch this space

But you know what, you think you've done with spending, then you see how nice it looks with a Squape R which by all accounts sits flush, no gaps

[Greg]

The dani looks a bit boring to me, I guess it's subjective as are most things

[Deleted]

Aug 19, 2014 20:10:09 GMT Mrsmac said:

Gap did someone say gap I hate gaps!

Agree, non adjustable centre pin is poor in such a high quality device. Not insurmountable though.

[Dan]

Aug 19, 2014 18:18:05 GMT @scooby said:

Aug 19, 2014 16:07:43 GMT Ripshod said:

Mrsmac you really have to try pure mech, at least for a week. Best move I made so far.

I've been 3 days without an electronic mod and I've enjoyed every single vape. The maths is the hardest part, and trust me that ain't that hard.

You helped me by passing something on, which has now gone to someone else. I'll put myself forward as a mentor if you feel you need one. It's not that hard, trust me. I'm sure everyone else here will help guide you.

Going mech and winding your own coils are seperate entities, which when combined make life......well, blissful.

Put simply:

10Watts is roughly 1.6 ohm
9watts is roughly 1.8ohm
8watts is roughly 2.0ohm.

Simples!!

With a Dani 10w 9w 8w no matter what :)ohm, is not roughly but actually, and it stays there right from fresh to recharge. That's simples

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you are wrong abou that.

I have two danis sitting here. Both of which reduce the output power when the battery reaches a certain voltage. This is my only bug bear with them!

I have the cutoff voltage set to 2.6v (efest 18490s can be discharged to 2.5v with no ill effect) and the dani starts reducing power when the battery voltage is at around 3.2v.

The blurb says that they do this so the user has enough time to swap out batteries before it cuts off completely.

So basically, when most mods tell you that the battery is dead, the dani gives you time to change the battery but still operate (assuming you have the sb option setup in accordance with the lowest discharge value of your particular battery).

I myself think the dani is the mod to beat as far as tubes go. It uses ac as opposed to dc. This does give a smoother vape than even a pure mechanical can give.

the option to switch the output frequency between 50hz and 200khz when switching from 1ohm+ to subohm is genius and does make a difference.

The comparitive size is amazing.

The menu is intuitive yet comprehensive.

They're brilliant, simply brilliant!

All I will say is that if you're going to splash the cash, do the decent thing and buy the extreme. The extras it offers over the basic make it worth the extra.

oh, and the M is the one to go for IMO.. best mixture of size and runtime..

[Dan]

Here's some size comparisons for you Mrsmac

18500 dani extreme with kayfun 3.1es (lookie.. no gaps)!) next to an 18500 nemesis/3d hybrid.



Nemmy/3d dripper, dani, and the trusty vtr.

[Mrsmac]

Thanks for the feedback Dan and the size comparison shots really help put it into perspective it's also good to see so many different opinions

[Deleted]

Aug 19, 2014 23:36:17 GMT Dan said:

Aug 19, 2014 18:18:05 GMT @scooby said:

With a Dani 10w 9w 8w no matter what :)ohm, is not roughly but actually, and it stays there right from fresh to recharge. That's simples

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you are wrong abou that.

I have two danis sitting here. Both of which reduce the output power when the battery reaches a certain voltage. This is my only bug bear with them!

I have the cutoff voltage set to 2.6v (efest 18490s can be discharged to 2.5v with no ill effect) and the dani starts reducing power when the battery voltage is at around 3.2v.

The blurb says that they do this so the user has enough time to swap out batteries before it cuts off completely.

So basically, when most mods tell you that the battery is dead, the dani gives you time to change the battery but still operate (assuming you have the sb option setup in accordance with the lowest discharge value of your particular battery).

I myself think the dani is the mod to beat as far as tubes go. It uses ac as opposed to dc. This does give a smoother vape than even a pure mechanical can give.

the option to switch the output frequency between 50hz and 200khz when switching from 1ohm+ to subohm is genius and does make a difference.

The comparitive size is amazing.

The menu is intuitive yet comprehensive.

They're brilliant, simply brilliant!

All I will say is that if you're going to splash the cash, do the decent thing and buy the extreme. The extras it offers over the basic make it worth the extra.

oh, and the M is the one to go for IMO.. best mixture of size and runtime..

And that's the pertinent point Dan and a positive in my view.  My Semovar is dead a about 3.4v, a kick is similar, and a mechanical mod tails off well before that.

To prolong the life of my batteries I recharge at 3.4v -3.6v so the way I'd use the Dani, charging at as as it goes sub 3.6ishv it would give me constant power output from fresh to recharge.

My biggest bug bear is a non adjustable pin and therefore gaps, that's much more of a deal breaker.

[Dan]

Aug 20, 2014 8:24:24 GMT @scooby said:

Aug 19, 2014 23:36:17 GMT Dan said:

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you are wrong abou that.

I have two danis sitting here. Both of which reduce the output power when the battery reaches a certain voltage. This is my only bug bear with them!

I have the cutoff voltage set to 2.6v (efest 18490s can be discharged to 2.5v with no ill effect) and the dani starts reducing power when the battery voltage is at around 3.2v.

The blurb says that they do this so the user has enough time to swap out batteries before it cuts off completely.

So basically, when most mods tell you that the battery is dead, the dani gives you time to change the battery but still operate (assuming you have the sb option setup in accordance with the lowest discharge value of your particular battery).

I myself think the dani is the mod to beat as far as tubes go. It uses ac as opposed to dc. This does give a smoother vape than even a pure mechanical can give.

the option to switch the output frequency between 50hz and 200khz when switching from 1ohm+ to subohm is genius and does make a difference.

The comparitive size is amazing.

The menu is intuitive yet comprehensive.

They're brilliant, simply brilliant!

All I will say is that if you're going to splash the cash, do the decent thing and buy the extreme. The extras it offers over the basic make it worth the extra.

oh, and the M is the one to go for IMO.. best mixture of size and runtime..

And that's the pertinent point Dan and a positive in my view.  My Semovar is dead a about 3.4v, a kick is similar, and a mechanical mod tails off well before that.

To prolong the life of my batteries I recharge at 3.4v -3.6v so the way I'd use the Dani, charging at as as it goes sub 3.6ishv it would give me constant power output from fresh to recharge.

My biggest bug bear is a non adjustable pin and therefore gaps, that's much more of a deal breaker.

Just re-read my reply. Sounded very arrogant! Sorry about that

I do see where you're coming from, but it's not really gaining an advantage over other mods to be fair.. the whole point is that you get a bit more runtime..

No other mod (that I am aware of) allows you to use the full capacity of the battery as the dani does. Lowest cutoff I know of otherwise is the Semovar at 3v (under load). 0.5v may not sound a lot but some cells produce most of their usable capacity low down in the volts range (panasonic ncr18650b is a fine example of this!!)

You mention about prolonging your batteries' life by only theoretically using half of their capacity

As far as I'm concerned, you are actually shortening their life, not lengthening.

It's the cycle of charge - discharge - charge that affects the life span of a battery, not how much capacity is used per charge.. many cells actually give better life and performance if used to their full potential each cycle.

I do agree that an adjustable pin would seal the deal for many others, but it's no dealbreaker.. not for me anyways..

The way I look at it is this.. having an adjustable pin involves something else that could go wrong.. This, I believe, is the main reason why it wasn't included. That and the fact that it would add height..

What is woeth mentioning is that there are quite a few tanks will fit flush (squape v1, rose v2) with no issues whatsoever. Granted, Kayfuns need 0.75mm sanded off the bottom insulator but that's a two minute job with a nail file..

[Mrsmac]

I assume as well it may depend on your "model" of kayfun as well as I read a thread somewhere else that shows how to do it and if I get the funds together or can't get on with the mech then I have no problem taking a nail file to any of mines...can you tell, gaps are a problem for me

Eagerly awaiting the postie this morning to start testing some suggestions

[Dan]

Aug 20, 2014 10:59:29 GMT Mrsmac said:

I assume as well it may depend on your "model" of kayfun as well as I read a thread somewhere else that shows how to do it and if I get the funds together or can't get on with the mech then I have no problem taking a nail file to any of mines...can you tell, gaps are a problem for me

Eagerly awaiting the postie this morning to start testing some suggestions

Model makes no odds Mrsmac

If its a 3.1 you just remove the screw from the drip well, if it's a lite you remove the whole centre pin.

The insulator is like a little top hat inside the 510 connection. Should just pop out.

Take it slow though as if you take too much off it won't make a connection.. few swipes at a time with a fine nail file (ones used for acrylic nails are the best).

This may prove to be useful