A comparison of the first and last DNA30s from Focal Updated

[robby]

The first one was bought when Foclecig first listed them about two months ago? You can see from the figures that it didn`t really get to the 7.8V at 30 watts. The resistance reading was often about 0.2 ohms out and seemed worse at the subohm readings. It wouldn`t fire below 0.7ohms. A thing I didn`t expect was that it seems to have used PWM whereas the newer one doesn`t. It had a hole for the charging LED to show some light, but the new one doesn`t. Apart from that, it is exactly the same case. 

The new one flashes the ohms display when it cant give you the power you have selected (the low end). It still vapes but at 4 volts no matter what you have selected. As you tweak the wattage up, it will stop flashing at the point that the regulation is judged to be working again. It fires fine on 0.5 ohms, I haven`t tried lower than that yet but I will. The waveforms are considerably messier on the earlier version but having said that, it vapes okay. 

The switches have a lighter action on the newer one, some found the switches uncomfortable to use on ther earlier ones.
The display is a fair bit brighter on the new one.
EDIT It is a different board, and by the look of it a better one. Having said that, the older one works okay.

In conclusion, the newer one is more refined for sure.

The "coil" used was a high stability 1% 10 WATT resistor and the batteries were 25 Ampers fully charged.


To my surprise (after being used to only get .7 or .6 ohms minimum), this new one will fire down to 0.3ohms.

[VapingBad]

Nice info robby, when the ohms flash on a real DNA it has switched to pass through and it sounds like what your 2nd one is doing. It gose to show allways adjust to taste rather than stick to a number.

[robby]

Oct 30, 2014 18:06:15 GMT VapingBad said:

Nice info robby, when the ohms flash on a real DNA it has switch to pass through and it sounds like what your 2nd one is doing. It gose to show allways adjust to taste rather than stick to a number.

Yes, I think if you take any three mods and test them there will be a couple of watts difference between them going by the mod displays, suck it and see

[robby]

As suspected, they are totally different boards.

The top one is the newer one.

Excuse the snot, my nose was runnin

[VapingBad]

Your are gonna hate me for saying this again robby I just can't help it sorry, but that soldering is well iffy EG the fat red output line on the new one is just plonked on the pad which has minimal mechanical strength and poor conductivity compared to putting through the hole. Rule 1 of soldering is make a good mechanical contact before you solder, solder has poor conductivity and strength. BTW heat-sink paste in normally called snot, you probably already know.

[robby]

haha, no problem, it works mate, and works pretty well, certainly much better than the first one. I`m suspecting that wire wouldn`t go through the hole, looks pretty hefty which isn`t a totally bad thing, it goes to the 510 positive. I`ve seen a lot of the insides of these various Chinese mods and this one is not too bad lol.

[robby]

A thing I didn`t mention earlier is that although the switches look pretty much identical, the ones on the newer one have a much lighter action

[VapingBad]

IIRC the real switches are made by C&K are the KJS series and come in a range of activation pressures (hows that for geeky).

Those wires are the devil to get through the hole on real DNA, you have to tin them with the insulation on (must be silicon) and then pull the insulation back to get them in the hole, wish I had discovered this earlier.

[robby]

Going to do some more tests on the scope with subohm stuff, it actually looks as if it is going below 3 volts on below 0.5 ohms. I`ll charge the batts again and stick a 0.3 ohm on it in the morning to double check and it doesn`t look like PWM.

[robby]

The newer DNA30 does in fact fire at 0.2 ohms, I`m not sure I would want to do that on these though. The voltage was reduced to under 2V when it was firing, hopefully that means the current limit is coming in.

[robby]

Been running it at .2 ohms for the day, worked fine so far, the ohms is flashing and at that resistance it cant make a low enough voltage to start regulating at all. The ohms is even flashing at 30 watts. The lowest it puts out is just over three volts, to be honest, I thought it would be higher.

At 30 watts it should be down to 2.56 volts but because the board cant get that low it`s probably between 35 and 40 watts.

[paulymeatballs]

Nov 8, 2014 18:41:07 GMT robby said:

Been running it at .2 ohms for the day, worked fine so far, the ohms is flashing and at that resistance it cant make a low enough voltage to start regulating at all. The ohms is even flashing at 30 watts. The lowest it puts out is just over three volts, to be honest, I thought it would be higher.

At 30 watts it should be down to 2.56 volts but because the board cant get that low it`s probably between 35 and 40 watts.

great work robby, I've been eyeing these up but there's so many models and versions now. Would you have a link to the latest one please?

[robby]

focalecig.com/Product/HANAA-MODZ-Pack-DNA-30-StyleModblack-19557

That`s the one I am talking about in this thread paulymeatballs

This one is worth a look too

focalecig.com/Product/HANAA-MODZ-Pack-DNA-35-Style-Voltage-Wattage-ModGrey-22669

[raw2sienna]

Looking the pics of Hana DNA30 in actual group buy on Focal - it looks like latest DNA30 board


robby - what do you think?

[robby]

Looks pretty much the same raw2sienna