DNA40 and nickel wire, a learing curve

[Deleted]

Well i knew it could be a bit of a pain so thats why i thought i would use my genuine erl as i know they are really well made with no lose bits.
Very frustrating when youve build a nice neat coil that heats up evenly and then vapes like a five year old built it

[VapingBad]

Have you put the coil in the SteamEngine calc & is the resistance you get from your build close to that? and was the colour code for heat flux green? Another tell tale of connection issue is the ohm reading going down a little when you first fire. Every time you change the wick check the connections are tight. blakey might have done an Erl so have tagged him.

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2014 22:30:59 GMT VapingBad said:

Have you put the coil in the SteamEngine calc & is the resistance you get from your build close to that? and was the colour code for heat flux green? Another tell tale of connection issue is the ohm reading going down a little when you first fire. Every time you change the wick check the connections are tight. blakey might have done an Erl so have tagged him.

Yes the ohms is spot on with steam engine and its in the green. 0.17 and stable when you fire it.

[VapingBad]

@windows and the watts are set to the same on the coil calc, what temp do you have it set for?

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2014 23:02:19 GMT VapingBad said:

@windows and the watts are set to the same on the coil calc, what temp do you have it set for?

480

[VapingBad]

Dec 17, 2014 23:04:14 GMT @windows said:

Dec 17, 2014 23:02:19 GMT VapingBad said:

@windows and the watts are set to the same on the coil calc, what temp do you have it set for?

480

I like cotton/rayon builds at 410 myself, try turning it down, there is misleading info to set the temp to the wick when setting it to what your juice likes gives you the best vape.

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2014 23:08:20 GMT VapingBad said:

Dec 17, 2014 23:04:14 GMT @windows said:

480

I like cotton/rayon builds at 410 myself, try turning it down, there is misleading info to set the temp to the wick when setting it to what your juice likes gives you the best vape.

Ive got rayon in at the mow so I'll give that a try.

[Deleted]

Nope no vapour at all at 410 so there's def something wrong here.
I'll have another crack tomorrow night and give the lemo a go in case its the erl causing the prob.

[geordie_vaper]

new features added to the vs rdna40

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2014 23:22:06 GMT geordie_vaper said:

new features added to the vs rdna40

Great a larger fuzzy screen.....! 

seriously though, does that mean they are re stocking. I want back in. 

[Deleted]

Dec 17, 2014 15:22:59 GMT geordie_vaper said:

spread the joy am confused haha copper?

I work around engineers all day, but one, a friend and a very clever man did take an interest with regards to my istick after a meeting. I explained roughly what it does and how it works, he replied straight away with " but you need to control the temperature for vapor" I then mentioned the DNA40 limiting the coils temperature and he still looked confused as to why monitor the coils temperature and "not the juice" he then went on with regards to temperature sensors controlling a small plate heat exchanger with a well, ie possibly eliminating coils a wick.

ill see him again next week for a Christmas drink and will pick his brains again, well before i get too drunk...! 
 

[Deleted]

Ok guys ive nailed it
It must have been the erl causing my problems. Just done exactly the same set up in my Lemo and boom, fogging the room out.
So it seems the erl is destined to stay with boring ol kanthal.

[blakey]

Dec 17, 2014 22:30:59 GMT VapingBad said:

Have you put the coil in the SteamEngine calc & is the resistance you get from your build close to that? and was the colour code for heat flux green? Another tell tale of connection issue is the ohm reading going down a little when you first fire. Every time you change the wick check the connections are tight. blakey might have done an Erl so have tagged him.

No, I never bothered with the erl. Didn't rate it much as an attie tbh
But it's almost certainly a connection issue somewhere, the erl has a finneky 510 set up that all needs to be tight for decent conductivity. This nickel wire really shows up any part of an attie that isn't making good electrical conductivity. Clean everything - tighten everything - then build your coil with the attie off of the mod.

[Deleted]

Kayfun next then

[blakey]

Dec 18, 2014 21:24:25 GMT @windows said:

Kayfun next then

Best results I've had in a kayfun came from 29guage wire, 7 wraps around a 3mm former for .14ohms and an open coil not a micro coil.
Be careful that you don't deform that coil when you put your cotton through and build it off of the mod. After you give it a test fire then check the screws on the terminals and make sure they're still secure before you add and fill the tank.