Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 23, 2015 22:25:54 GMT
Croak, tried it all, still only 1 battery used, to little vapetime wish istick 50watt had tc it just work's well ???? It's a ground connection, I still have no doubt, just need to find out which one, and since it seems to run fine with the battery under the 510, that narrows down which side is the problem. If you look at Robby's tear-down picture, you'll see two screws attached to the chassis on the upper left and upper right of this picture. Those are your most likely culprits, along with the battery caps and threading there.
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ralliant
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Post by ralliant on Feb 23, 2015 22:53:17 GMT
Thanks croak, will try to use my 10 thumbs and lift the lit ????
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robby
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Post by robby on Feb 24, 2015 0:00:13 GMT
The grounds should be fine as they are connected together through the chassis on the bottom of the mod. Must be the plus, thick red wire in the middle of the pic just above the display.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 24, 2015 0:04:32 GMT
That's assuming they're making good contact Robby...dodgy screws and anodising can be a bad combination. And even the real VF has issues with the battery caps at times.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 24, 2015 0:42:20 GMT
Thanks croak, will try to use my 10 thumbs and lift the lit ???? From the ECF forum, another Kangxin VF owner having the same problem, and his solution:
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robby
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Post by robby on Feb 24, 2015 1:06:33 GMT
Mine are all flat tops and they are fine, the caps dont go completely home when tightening
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nwasiq
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Post by nwasiq on Feb 24, 2015 12:43:05 GMT
Same problem can crop up on the authentic VF, and some other real DNA40 devices. It's usually a battery grounding issue. Make sure there's no anodizing around the battery threads, and screw those caps in tighter, finger tight may not be enough for a solid connection. If that doesn't clear it up, make sure the battery leads at the top, under the display/510 cover, are seated well and also not threaded through anodized metal. The more of this sort of stuff I see, the more I'm convinced this is close to being a 1:1 clone of an Evolv board and not reverse-engineered. That's a good thing and a bad thing. Also, anyone can use a single battery with a Vapor Flask, authentic or clone, since they're parallel, that's a feature, not a bug. Funny, that you mention it, I posted this on ECF a couple of days ago: "Hey everyone. I was just browsing my google now recommendations and I stumbled upon this article: What’s Really Going On in China? I knew about Pbusardo and VapinGreek going to China but I didn't know about Brandon from evolv going there as well. Doesn't this article's 'Tech Sharing Theory' make sense a little bit? Look at the timing; they go there and all of a sudden DNA 40 clones start popping up. Mike Vapes from youtube even says that these VF clones are better then his authentic rDNA. Could it be that these great clones have been made by the same DNA 40 chip "recipe"?"
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-V-
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Post by -V- on Feb 24, 2015 13:07:38 GMT
They'd got the clone temp chip started and ready around mid December which was before those all went to China so i don't think so
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nwasiq
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Post by nwasiq on Feb 24, 2015 14:28:02 GMT
I'm not saying Brandon went there to personally deliver the chip. Maybe he went there to see how everything was shaping up?
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-V-
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Post by -V- on Feb 24, 2015 14:44:35 GMT
Well he needs to teach them how to make it stay locked on 5 clicks..lol...
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nwasiq
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Post by nwasiq on Feb 25, 2015 3:29:16 GMT
lol, now if it were perfect, who'd buy the "real" flasks?
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Feb 28, 2015 16:12:35 GMT
That's assuming they're making good contact Robby...dodgy screws and anodising can be a bad combination. And even the real VF has issues with the battery caps at times. If the threads or any other current path are anodised most oven cleaners are good at removing the stuff without damaging the alu, just leave on for 10-15 mins, wash off and repeat if necessary. Pic of me doing an Origenny V2 clone:
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 3, 2015 4:25:38 GMT
Mine finally arrived from 3FVape today, and I'm well pleased with it. Chuffed, even Note the screws in the battery tubes for adjustment: Battery caps line up perfect, threading is free of anodizing and smooth: USB connector is aligned perfectly with the cutout: Fit and finish was perfect, no flaws found, and I really like the coating (don't mind the white stuff above the buttons, that's paper towel lint) Temperature control, as we all know, works fine. I did a quick and dirty twisted 30AWG Ni200 build on a Kayfun V4 clone, and even that over-engineered piece of shite worked:
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neel
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Post by neel on Mar 4, 2015 13:56:35 GMT
Hello there,
As a left-handed person I wonder how this non-symetric flask handles when hold in left hand.
-Can it happen you accidentaly click the buttons due to the fact they will be under you hand ? -How about using your thumb to fire, is it convenient ? (no pb with this with an iStick but it could be different with this flask) -Is the flask more prone to slip out of your hand than when holding it in the right hand ? -Any other thoughts about holding this flask in left hand ?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2015 14:01:30 GMT
It works just the same in either hand, the fire buttons on the side ? Or am I missing something here.
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