VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 16, 2015 12:42:14 GMT
Not sure what you are getting at VapingBad, the top trace shows a dry coil under full temperature control. The second trace is the coil and wick saturated, both traces are for exactly the same settings for watts and temperature control. They don't show it regulating the volts down when it hits temp, 1st has some pre-heat then level volts, 2nd is gradually increasing the volts which is the opposite of what you would expect if it temp limiting, it could be that it never reached the temp limit. I not saying it doesn't regulate temp, just those plots don't show it doing so.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 12:54:26 GMT
The two scope pics show both extremes of the temperature control. The first one with a pretty dry wick shows the lower voltage applied to show temp control, the second one shows a saturated wick and coil so more mass to heat up and more volts applied. The coil isn`t meeting the requirement for temp control to kick in until it dries out a bit. If the wick had started to dry out, the voltage would have started to reduce because the coil wasnt being cooled enough by the liquid.
The level volts on the first pic is because it is temperature controlled with a dry wick and coil allowing very fast heat up and less volts needed to heat it up. I would expect it to be a flatish trace. ???
The scope and mod settings are exactly the same for both traces.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 13:11:45 GMT
The second pic is just building up to level, in voltage terms, it really isnt very much of an upward curve. If the trace had been another 10 seconds longer it would have shown that, although it looks pretty flat to me near the end of the trace. As for showing the other end of the process, it would need a pretty long trace to show it reducing, think of a wick slowly drying out (the temperature control kicks in and out more at this stage obviously) but it would eventually get to the state that the first pic shows which is clearly at a much lower temperature controlled level.
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geordie_vaper
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Post by geordie_vaper on Jan 16, 2015 13:24:46 GMT
what batterys fit the flask clone good robby? also does it have left mode right mode stealth and all that good stuff?
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 13:28:22 GMT
It seems to have all the options that the original one has, flip, stealth, lock etc. Any batteries I have tried fit well, not tight and not too loose geordie_vaper
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geordie_vaper
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Post by geordie_vaper on Jan 16, 2015 13:31:24 GMT
getting one orderd on tuesday trying to haggle on the price now.....no suprise it isnt working haha
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 13:45:52 GMT
getting one orderd on tuesday trying to haggle on the price now.....no suprise it isnt working haha keep tryin lol
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geordie_vaper
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Post by geordie_vaper on Jan 16, 2015 13:52:09 GMT
i have 4 days to blag them hoping for free shipping if not all take a $5 discount
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 16, 2015 14:45:25 GMT
Fair enough for the first I thought the first peek may have been a pre-heat but it is just the coil getting upto temp pdq. The 2nd I would expect the v to decrease a little or stay flat as the heat soaks and R stabilises through the liquid or it dries out less additional heat would be required to maintain temp but it creeps up 500 mV, it is regulating the wattage to the resistance changing with heat, but form our very limited data a little differently. If v is increasing than the wattage is going up if the temp is stable or the temp (and R) is going down if the wattage is constant. The Evolve stays flat once R stabilises unless you alter the airflow, but the adapter I use adds a about 0.02 - 0.03 ohm so it won't be doing nearly as good job as normal and it take a long time as you have to keep letting them cool . The ramp up is different to the Evolv, it takes a sort of smooth rise 300 ms while the R of the coil is rising where the Evolv gives an instant high voltage at first and takes some steps down as R goes up then down again when go to temp. The very top of the pre heat on your 2nd plot is the same shape as the Evolv, it may just be the temp is set high. Just did this of the Evolv on an Orchid 0.13 ohm, 20 W 400 F you can see the pre heat is quite aggressive (the resistance is rising very quickly so they are high power levels), the dip after 4.25 sec is me taking a big inhale so the tmps lowers raising R so lowering V to keep power level. The signal is not the noisy when you zoom in you can see what I presume is the board monitoring R about 670 times a second. We need better equipment ant lots of time to be accurate, especially something to independently monitor the coil temp so all this is to some extent conjecture and educated guesses. The Oscopes are more than accurate enough for the voltage so it not nonsense either.
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macmagoo
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Post by macmagoo on Jan 16, 2015 15:31:01 GMT
This looks like it may be a half decent clone. I have sent an enquiry to see what the supplier says regarding price and shipping.
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 15:39:22 GMT
This looks like it may be a half decent clone. I have sent an enquiry to see what the supplier says regarding price and shipping. Quite a lot of ordering info earlier in the thread macmagoo
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 15:40:43 GMT
Just another pic to wet your appetites lol
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 23:12:08 GMT
A question to ponder If you set your temp protection to 420F and your watts to 40 what wattage are you going to be burning? If you then change your wattage to 25 what wattage are you going to be burning then?
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jan 16, 2015 23:43:39 GMT
A question to ponder If you set your temp protection to 420F and your watts to 40 what wattage are you going to be burning? If you then change your wattage to 25 what wattage are you going to be burning then? The wattage would be the wattage quoted below the temp limit, then what ever wattage needed to maintain it, it would vary with air flow, wicking etc. I have just done a table of coil R at different temps to help me understand the oscope plots as I wasn't getting them. If for your 2nd the R was 0.14 at 25 W, then you take a voltage form the plot, say far right 2.6 V so R would be 2.6 2/25 = 0.2704 and looking that up for 0.13 ohm would make the temp 330 F. do the same at the other end @ 2 V R =2 2/25 = 0.16 ohm and looking that up would be 108 F. It depends a lot on the R at 20 C, The Temperature Coefficient of Resistance for nickel is 0.00641 @ 20 C To get the factor for R change (Temp - 20 C) X 0.00641 To get R t = R + (R X TheFactorAbove). For a yard stick From 20 C to 177 C (350 F) the resistance doubles From 20 C to 254 C (490 F) the resistance is 2.5 times
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Post by robby on Jan 16, 2015 23:49:11 GMT
On the one I have, once you get above temp control/protection point, it doesn`t make any difference to the trace as long as the watt setting is above what the temp control would give you, which makes the wattage setting irrelevant IMO. You are under total temperature control.
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