sleedale
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Post by sleedale on Feb 1, 2015 12:05:38 GMT
Nifty little device which, thanks to help from people here, I have now got working fine. I used to make coils by flaming the wire, wrapping and then squeezing and flaming the made coil, and voila, lovely coils which came out at around the ohms I expected. Now, with this new nifty thing, no more flaming, thread and twist the wire and voila, coil. Put into a base and check on the ohms tester, and with .28 Kanthal, on the 2mm rod and 7 wraps, it's around 1.5-1.7 ohms. Put onto a battery to check it fires evenly and on the istick it instantly falls to 0.9ohms until I sort of push the coils together gently, more of a brief prod, then it settles to around the original ohms reading and then all seems well. so, is this normal? I assume that test firing the coil on the istick just replicates the flaming I used to do, but it surprised me a little that until that happened, the ohms reading changed from the original reading from the tester to drop quite dramatically to reading as it should after firing and a gentle prod. if I didnt 'pre fire' and just checked the ohms then wicked and used it would that have the same effect? Kits also caused the istick to whack up the watts as the ohms reading drops and if I forget to lower it again, then bleurghhhh, burnt juice.
Just asking for thoughts really, thank you peeps
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djs
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Puffing on the RY4 today.
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Post by djs on Feb 1, 2015 12:38:00 GMT
Is it a jig or a Kuro-type?
" .28 Kanthal, on the 2mm rod and 7 wraps, it's around 1.5-1.7 ohms. " sounds about right to me.
Ask the steam engine calculator?
It's not exactly weird for ohms to jump during making and testing around but 0.9ohms sounds worrying. Once the coil is settled and you are up and running, excessive ohm jumping is not good.
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Feb 1, 2015 12:45:24 GMT
I'd suspect the iStick 510, very temperamental and easy to get a short on them. I don't think the insulator under the positive pin is too robust.
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mowjo
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Post by mowjo on Feb 1, 2015 12:56:54 GMT
Greg! a bit off topic, But I've now heard a couple mention the same problem with the insulator, do you think one of those bending adaptors would stop the problem, as the atties fits in the adaptor and not the battery 510???
Mow,,,,
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Feb 1, 2015 13:57:08 GMT
mowjo I think it's on topic. I don't use the iStick but my wife has 3 and of course when they stop working or need filling that's my job. I think the 510 is really quite poor on them and frequently get a short then by backing the atty off a bit it's fine for a while. I just tried to wangle an extra oring under the positive pin of the iStick with dental picks but failed miserably. I don't suppose you can complain for the precise but the 510 seems the week point for me, the bending adaptor won't really help with the insulator unless your lucky. The key for me is the length of the 510 and how long it is and therefore does it push the iStick 510 positive pin too hard crushing the insulator and causing a short. My fix, I've ordered here a Vaporshark DNA30
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mowjo
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Post by mowjo on Feb 1, 2015 14:20:49 GMT
Thanks Greg! I'm waiting for a couple from FT, no doub't by the time they get here there will be a new updated version, still I suppose if you work it out it's only the cost of 2x 20 cigs eack one, even if I get a couple of months out of each one it's still cheap, someone here will probably pull one apart and find a fix, you know what they are like here!
Mow,,,
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