macmagoo
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Post by macmagoo on Apr 11, 2015 22:40:07 GMT
Hope you get it sorted out.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 11, 2015 23:02:49 GMT
Will do guys it's from a good vendor.
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macmagoo
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SX350J
Apr 13, 2015 0:13:08 GMT
Post by macmagoo on Apr 13, 2015 0:13:08 GMT
I am sure I read somewhere that 1J = 1.2W so 50J would equate to 60W.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 13, 2015 0:26:30 GMT
What's all this watts and joules you old vapers use, I vape at 430f and let the chip sort out the power....
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 13, 2015 0:32:24 GMT
I am sure I read somewhere that 1J = 1.2W so 50J would equate to 60W. On PotV, I had a chuckle reading it a few days ago as the Joule issue had been discussed so many times here and on UKV. I can't remember the detail of it, but I think that it was that member over there picked 1.2 as the max in wattage mode is 60 W and assumed the 50 J (the max in temp mode) were the same thing, 60/50 = 1.2, complete rubbish IMO. I may misremember though. YiHi are "using" Joule in 2 ways, the 1st instead of Watts as the instantaneous power setting (what most mods call power and measure in Watts), 2nd as a counter (they love a puff counter in the Far East) where Joule make sense. This is confusing users, hence the 1.2 thing you mentioned. 1 J = 1 W for 1 sec, and alot of other things like
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 13, 2015 0:38:31 GMT
Yea VapingBad couldn't of said it better myself...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 7:44:22 GMT
I noticed immediately that you missed 0.10197162 Kilogram Meters and 1 newton Meter VapingBad
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decoy
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Post by decoy on Apr 13, 2015 8:03:19 GMT
letsavit i feel for you ,i have lusted after one of these from when they were just the sx never mind with temp cont i still dont understand the way this jules malarky works but hope you get it sorted
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Greigster
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Post by Greigster on Apr 13, 2015 8:12:28 GMT
Found this, which sort of mirrors what I did in the previous posts and the results are not so different. I was firing for twice as long as this guy. I think we expect the cotton to stay pure white, but if it is barely discoloured on virgin dry cotton with a 10 second fire.....then perhaps that is good enough. Perhaps the SX350 M is the most accurate mod to date and it is all the others that are wrong We will have to wait until P Busardo gets it rigged up to his measuring kit.
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 13, 2015 12:34:23 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 13, 2015 12:34:23 GMT
Found this, which sort of mirrors what I did in the previous posts and the results are not so different. I was firing for twice as long as this guy. I think we expect the cotton to stay pure white, but if it is barely discoloured on virgin dry cotton with a 10 second fire.....then perhaps that is good enough. Perhaps the SX350 M is the most accurate mod to date and it is all the others that are wrong We will have to wait until P Busardo gets it rigged up to his measuring kit. Yes that's good enough.....and it's good. Don't know how far they can take this tech forwards, if much at all. The DNA40 still burns juice, you just can't taste it...but it's stuck on my coils after a few tanks... Bring on the no coils and temp probes in our tanks...
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VapingBad
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SX350J
Apr 13, 2015 12:58:45 GMT
Post by VapingBad on Apr 13, 2015 12:58:45 GMT
All flavoured liquids will leave some solid deposits after being boiled off letsavit and these will be left on the coil, so I think you are wrong saying "The DNA40 still burns juice". You can set the temp higher than needed and cook components of the juice, one reason to add another loop or 2 to the coil and turn the temp down and over 400 F you will often still be getting lots of vapour. Warm vape is mor to do with short distance between coil and mouth + airflow than the temp you vaporise IMO.
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letsavit
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SX350J
Apr 13, 2015 13:05:53 GMT
Post by letsavit on Apr 13, 2015 13:05:53 GMT
All flavoured liquids will leave some solid deposits after being boiled off letsavit and these will be left on the coil, so I think you are wrong saying "The DNA40 still burns juice". You can set the temp higher than needed and cook components of the juice, one reason to add another loop or 2 to the coil and turn the temp down and over 400 F you will often still be getting lots of vapour. Warm vape is mor to do with short distance between coil and mouth + airflow than the temp you vaporise IMO. Yes, makes sense ... Would of just thought setting a max temp at the coil would give some length over leaving deposits on the coil but it doesn't.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 13, 2015 13:08:28 GMT
Still makes a big difference: the liquid form spitting and condensation is lighter in colour with less BBCBs.
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VapingBad
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SX350J
Apr 23, 2015 10:14:09 GMT
Post by VapingBad on Apr 23, 2015 10:14:09 GMT
(I posted this in the wrong thread yesterday) Look closely at the settings, all the same atty and same build, but one is 65 F less temp to get the same flavour. Nobody warned me about the SX Mini Midi making a noise like a £5 aquarium pump, admittedly quieter, but still audible over the atty. I won't have time for a few days to check why, but it is a worry. And how heavy, weighs about the same as the other 2 together!!! E: just swapped the atties around and got that genesis dry-hit taste for the fist time in ages from a 3/4 full tank, with the DNA's I had switched to steel tanks as that never happens at 410 F let lone 345 F. My sx is silent in operation, something isn't right there mate Courtesy of -V-Had to turn it down to 300 F to get same flavour DNA has at 400 F after changing the battery this AM.
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SX350J
Apr 23, 2015 10:18:04 GMT
Post by VapingBad on Apr 23, 2015 10:18:04 GMT
So it has got worse and had to turn the temp down to min 212 F so did the cotton test with 7 wraps of 0.3 mm on 2.5 mm former @ 0.12 ohm with organic cw ball and the results are appallingly bad, it burnt clean through the cotton @ 360 F in less than 5 seconds.
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