letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 9, 2015 0:56:10 GMT
Pish off VapingBad I'm going derail my own thread, just finished my second tank on the SXmini....sucked it bone dry....you need to get on this chip evolv fan boy, only two tanks but for now I can tell you it's doing something good.......... Nighty night... I'll get round to it, but lack of pre-heat really puts me off, oh and big fugly screen. If I needed the extra power would have ordered the mod, but don't and don't feel the need to be a collector. I love the Dna40 most of the time, don't really understand how these things work but as a user I get the feeling it guesses too much..ohms and battery life...!..this feels more temp based as opposed to limiting watts when it has too and you know that's how I like to use these things. In powerful mode single coil it's instant but your double me so don't know. Just checked my coil after two tanks, it's clean, that tells a dumbass like me it's more accurate and calculating quicker?
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Post by Perpetua on Apr 9, 2015 5:39:07 GMT
I don't leave the house without enough gear that some peeps would probably pack for a weekend away letsavit . . . just saying like. I am able to charge anything I need to at work, have the option to buy anything I could possibly need to cover any vaping eventuality without even leaving the building, and I still go to work with a minimum of 3 mods, 2 tanks, 2 RDAs, 2 spare fully charged batteries and 4 or 5 bottles of juice! I rest my case.
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lairey
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Post by lairey on Apr 9, 2015 7:32:33 GMT
I can't put that lot in my handbag along with my purse, perfume, make up, phone, keys, hairbrush and all the other crap that accumulates in there... I'd never be able to lift the bloody thing! lol What you got a flight case with wheels for your days vaping stuff.... Don't joke, it has been considered! Lol
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 9, 2015 8:59:42 GMT
VapingBad cleaned everything, stripped the 510 down, all the tube threads and a marked approvement on my 18650 samsungs, thanks. Better on my 18500's efest purple but fully charged to 4.2 and bar full when inserted, drops a quarter after first draw? Not that I have any choice on the ZNA but is using the body as a ground a good thing for the DNA40? Yes, but IIRC it's aluminium and oxidised very fast after cut or drilled, maybe the connection between the board and body IIRC was soldered could be better, just a guess. Nail-head..... You're are good, ground sorted this morning mate.. Bloody temperamental board..
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 9, 2015 9:36:36 GMT
Yes, but IIRC it's aluminium and oxidised very fast after cut or drilled, maybe the connection between the board and body IIRC was soldered could be better, just a guess. Nail-head..... You're are good, ground sorted this morning mate.. Bloody temperamental board.. It's the mod & physics the first lot of the latest Pro Varis had a similar problem, maybe you should change the thread title to ZNA Clone Earthing Problems. There's the biggest prob with the DNAs the quality of the mods & atties so poor connections bite you, the latest boards have ohm lock apparently to make up for these, but in an ideal world it wouldn't be needed. I don't think profiles are in the same league as pre-heat unless they are using temperature, but there is no info I have seen on this just what blakey reported as a first impression. Controlling the pre heat by temp means you get the same experience with a cold, warm or hot coil and a voltage boost wont do that. I wrote this in my first post after trying the 40 on 23/20/15, I was talking about rayon wicks then. The biggest thing I notice is the almost instant heat up on the DNA40, the DNA30 takes almost 2 seconds to get up to temperature with this big twisted coil. I am often puzzled that more people don't notice it as much, maybe they all use smaller coils or are in the habit of firing before putting to their mouth. I tried a KingPin Flask clone at the last meet and it pre-heat was not very obvious, either very week or not there.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 9, 2015 10:07:45 GMT
So there's ohms lock on the new DNA's like this new SXmini I have, might have it in this new chip I'm yet to blow up then? ....makes sense considering it's the temps datum for all the mathematics. I would take it a step further and allow the user to adjust/manually enter.
Yes, pre heat/ramp up/profiles will be more subtle for me at 15watts, single coil compared to yourself. The power+ on the SX is doing something, im having to lower the temp 10-20f when it's on....seems to "hang" for a while....DNA beater? Early days but it's up there.....
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Apr 9, 2015 13:39:29 GMT
I wrote this in my first post after trying the 40 on 23/20/15I am often puzzled that more people don't notice it as much, maybe they all use smaller coils or are in the habit of firing before putting to their mouth. I tried a KingPin Flask clone at the last meet and it pre-heat was not very obvious, either very week or not there. Pre-heat isn't something that I make much use of tbh, I much prefer single coils and I rarely bother with twisted coils so I really don't need any power boost unless I'm using the mod in near freezing conditions. Plus the juices I vape suffer a vast change in flavour when they get too hot so I find that I rarely go above 410f and tbh 20w will heat a temperature coil sufficiently for me. Also I have no real need to go below 28guage wire which will heat up quicker than any thicker wire so maybe pre-heat is as necessary? Maybe the reason you become puzzled is that you require more power to find a satisfying vape? In saying that - I do notice pre-heat active on my evolv boards sometimes when I vape but I get the same vape from the yihi board in standard mode without pre-heat The sx350j chip is certainly a good chip, I haven't as yet encountered any glitches but it's still early days. The sx mini as a mod is certainly a well made device that feels solid in the hand and comfortable to use, it feels like a quality piece but I don't think its price tag is warranted in all honesty. I would even estimate that they make around £100 profit on each unit sold going by the price of other decent quality china made box mods albeit without the sx chip in them. I don't regret purchasing because I kinda knew that before I got one. But it really doesn't offer me anything more than my sharks as far as performance goes, in-fact the only real benefit over the evolv board I can think of is the memory settings and the auto screen flip. It falls behind the evolv board with charging indicators and and settings lock. It pi$$es me off having to hit the power button to see whether or not its finished charging and it pi$$es me off when I get a weak hit cos I've inadvertently hit the button and knocked it into soft mode.
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 9, 2015 14:10:24 GMT
I wrote this in my first post after trying the 40 on 23/20/15I am often puzzled that more people don't notice it as much, maybe they all use smaller coils or are in the habit of firing before putting to their mouth. I tried a KingPin Flask clone at the last meet and it pre-heat was not very obvious, either very week or not there. Pre-heat isn't something that I make much use of tbh, I much prefer single coils and I rarely bother with twisted coils so I really don't need any power boost unless I'm using the mod in near freezing conditions. Plus the juices I vape suffer a vast change in flavour when they get too hot so I find that I rarely go above 410f and tbh 20w will heat a temperature coil sufficiently for me. Also I have no real need to go below 28guage wire which will heat up quicker than any thicker wire so maybe pre-heat is as necessary? Maybe the reason you become puzzled is that you require more power to find a satisfying vape? In saying that - I do notice pre-heat active on my evolv boards sometimes when I vape but I get the same vape from the yihi board in standard mode without pre-heat The sx350j chip is certainly a good chip, I haven't as yet encountered any glitches but it's still early days. The sx mini as a mod is certainly a well made device that feels solid in the hand and comfortable to use, it feels like a quality piece but I don't think its price tag is warranted in all honesty. I would even estimate that they make around £100 profit on each unit sold going by the price of other decent quality china made box mods albeit without the sx chip in them. I don't regret purchasing because I kinda knew that before I got one. But it really doesn't offer me anything more than my sharks as far as performance goes, in-fact the only real benefit over the evolv board I can think of is the memory settings and the auto screen flip. It falls behind the evolv board with charging indicators and and settings lock. It pi$$es me off having to hit the power button to see whether or not its finished charging and it pi$$es me off when I get a weak hit cos I've inadvertently hit the button and knocked it into soft mode. The evolv board has no charging indicator? I do agree its overpriced, so is the shark though. Picking up on what vaping said earlier I have a few DNA40s, all seem to have little quirks (expect maybe my flask) evolv only design the board, it then gets stuck and wired into a mod. A mod and chip designed to work together is better going forward I think. I'm more experienced now but for newer users will this chip/mod be more forgiving? Just done an atty swap between shark/mini SX, pretty much the same for me, both doing there job. 3 tanks of juice through my subtank and the coils gunked with burnt juice as the DNA40...... I was hoping there..! I'm sitting on the fence for a while, there's not a lot in it... We have separate DNA40 and sx350j threads.......this might lead into the DNA40-sx350j and I'll change the title, some competition and choice is good thing for us I feel... What evlov do and have done is great but in a industry such as this with an uncertain future i certainly don't want one company (and country) holding all the cards on controlling our coils temperature.
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Post by blakey on Apr 9, 2015 14:23:02 GMT
Pre-heat isn't something that I make much use of tbh, I much prefer single coils and I rarely bother with twisted coils so I really don't need any power boost unless I'm using the mod in near freezing conditions. Plus the juices I vape suffer a vast change in flavour when they get too hot so I find that I rarely go above 410f and tbh 20w will heat a temperature coil sufficiently for me. Also I have no real need to go below 28guage wire which will heat up quicker than any thicker wire so maybe pre-heat is as necessary? Maybe the reason you become puzzled is that you require more power to find a satisfying vape? In saying that - I do notice pre-heat active on my evolv boards sometimes when I vape but I get the same vape from the yihi board in standard mode without pre-heat The sx350j chip is certainly a good chip, I haven't as yet encountered any glitches but it's still early days. The sx mini as a mod is certainly a well made device that feels solid in the hand and comfortable to use, it feels like a quality piece but I don't think its price tag is warranted in all honesty. I would even estimate that they make around £100 profit on each unit sold going by the price of other decent quality china made box mods albeit without the sx chip in them. I don't regret purchasing because I kinda knew that before I got one. But it really doesn't offer me anything more than my sharks as far as performance goes, in-fact the only real benefit over the evolv board I can think of is the memory settings and the auto screen flip. It falls behind the evolv board with charging indicators and and settings lock. It pi$$es me off having to hit the power button to see whether or not its finished charging and it pi$$es me off when I get a weak hit cos I've inadvertently hit the button and knocked it into soft mode. The evolv board has no charging indicator? I do agree its overpriced, so is the shark though. Picking up on what vaping said earlier I have a few DNA40s, all seem to have little quirks (expect maybe my flask) evolv only design the board, it then gets stuck and wired into a mod. A mod and chip designed to work together is better going forward I think. I'm more experienced now but for newer users will this chip/mod be more forgiving? Just done an atty swap between shark/mini SX, pretty much the same for me, both doing there job. 3 tanks of juice through my subtank and the coils gunked with burnt juice as the DNA40...... I was hoping there..! I'm sitting on the fence for a while, there's not a lot in it... We have separate DNA40 and sx350j threads.......this might lead into the DNA40-sx350j and I'll change the title, some competition and choice is good thing for us I feel... You're spot on with the quality of the mod making all the difference to how a chip will perform, if it's wired properly and preferably direct to the 510 then things like the resistance of the mod itself would be removed from any power equation. I answered an e-mail notification and responded to VapingBad without taking any notice of the thread title -apologies for that
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Apr 9, 2015 14:29:10 GMT
blakey no apologise needed I derailed the thread..... Threads all sorted now, I fixed my ZNA, the ladies carry suitcases of mods around daily and VapingBad loves manbags... Let it carry onto the next subject..
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 9, 2015 16:41:47 GMT
Largely agree with both blakey & letsavit, no power lock on the YiHi, that's not good, a pet hate of mine and a lot of other mods don't. blakey I use 32 AWG (0.2 mm) & 34 AWG (0.16 mm) twisted and both are at the thin end of the spectrum & never go over 410 F so not far from yours, and I notice the pre heat on Kayfuns @ 15 W. I wouldn't think my 100% PG would account for the difference, quite the opposite it should produce more vapour as it starts to heat than higher VG. The memories do nothing for me as I don't often swap atties on a mod and really try other liquids.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2015 16:52:55 GMT
I use 0.20mm and 0.25mm wire at 15w - 20w and lack preheat is the first thing I notice if I'm suffering from a bad connection. It's THE major plus point for me and as it's temperature based it won't overheat juice.
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Post by blakey on Apr 9, 2015 16:53:36 GMT
Largely agree with both blakey & letsavit, no power lock on the YiHi, that's not good, a pet hate of mine and a lot of other mods don't. blakey I use 32 AWG (0.2 mm) & 34 AWG (0.16 mm) twisted and both are at the thin end of the spectrum & never go over 410 F so not far from yours, and I notice the pre heat on Kayfuns @ 15 W. I wouldn't think my 100% PG would account for the difference, quite the opposite it should produce more vapour as it starts to heat than higher VG. The memories do nothing for me as I don't often swap atties on a mod and really try other liquids. twisted wired coils still take more power to heat up as quickly as a single coil would, maybe that's why you become more reliant on the pre-heat boost That KingPin clone you tried doesn't have pre-heat which is probably why you found it wanting, it doesn't have a very reliable board either- one of mine just stopped working and refuses to power up, it died mid vape on a standard 1.5ohm coil
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 9, 2015 18:37:03 GMT
Largely agree with both blakey & letsavit, no power lock on the YiHi, that's not good, a pet hate of mine and a lot of other mods don't. blakey I use 32 AWG (0.2 mm) & 34 AWG (0.16 mm) twisted and both are at the thin end of the spectrum & never go over 410 F so not far from yours, and I notice the pre heat on Kayfuns @ 15 W. I wouldn't think my 100% PG would account for the difference, quite the opposite it should produce more vapour as it starts to heat than higher VG. The memories do nothing for me as I don't often swap atties on a mod and really try other liquids. twisted wired coils still take more power to heat up as quickly as a single coil would, maybe that's why you become more reliant on the pre-heat boost That KingPin clone you tried doesn't have pre-heat which is probably why you found it wanting, it doesn't have a very reliable board either- one of mine just stopped working and refuses to power up, it died mid vape on a standard 1.5ohm coil It was Bob's on I tried and his other blue one started auto firing until the battery was removed. E: the x sectional area of 2x0.16 mm is only 27% more than that of 0.2 mm, about half way between 0.2 mm and 0.25 mm.
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Post by VapingBad on Apr 9, 2015 18:40:35 GMT
I use 0.20mm and 0.25mm wire at 15w - 20w and lack preheat is the first thing I notice if I'm suffering from a bad connection. It's THE major plus point for me and as it's temperature based it won't overheat juice. Yea I always thought of it as the "killer feature" (like "killer app") which would make it a must have, I now optimise my kanthal builds for walking the dog, diy etc to heat quickly as I really miss it when using other mods.
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