blakey
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Post by blakey on Jun 3, 2015 15:14:17 GMT
Date Time Process Office 03 Jun 2015, 04:23:00AM Item arrived United Kingdom United Kingdom 27 May 2015, 23:43:51PM Item sent to LANGLEY HWDC KUALA LUMPUR B 21 May 2015, 15:03:33PM Item posted over the counter In Transit 21 May 2015, 12:29:27PM Dispatch Pre-Alert In Transit Yep, mine are def on the same plane, now it's the turn of uk customs to play with the packages for a few days
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 11:48:01 GMT
Well it arrived, what were they thinking massive drip tip and spindly wire, never mind the first job reduce the volume of the atty while waiting on a Orchid3, Chaiice3 & a Zenith V2.5 from FT Just took the drip tip off, warped the outside generously with PTFE (bottom of the to silver section) and screwed it in from the bottom. Now have to clean it.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 12:45:45 GMT
They must have skipped squonking 101 when they mad the atty the liquid comes in at coil height . I believe after watching lots of SuperXDrifter videos that it is the draining of excess liquid and small wicks that make squonking a different vape from dripping. Dremel and cheap diamond burs to the rescue.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jun 4, 2015 12:56:37 GMT
Mine's still not here
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 13:04:28 GMT
You are not missing much blakey, it's VV depending how hard you push the button
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jun 4, 2015 13:08:34 GMT
You are not missing much blakey, it's VV depending how hard you push the button I take it then that the contacts aren't that good? Can they be easily corrected?
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 4, 2015 13:16:23 GMT
i've got one that works lovely, and the other one is a pain. I did this eventually to resolve it once and for all replaced the red wire with a copper plate, soldered both ends. Not proud of it, as I knocked it up on the fly from a piece of plumbing fitting U-strap. This means the button wont lock anymore, but it also means the *only* contact point in the switch is the very small part that touches the battery. and black wire replaced with thicker black wire, because #clouds
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 13:16:56 GMT
You are not missing much blakey, it's VV depending how hard you push the button I take it then that the contacts aren't that good? Can they be easily corrected? Probably, better wire would be a good start.
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 4, 2015 13:20:06 GMT
I take it then that the contacts aren't that good? Can they be easily corrected? Probably, better wire would be a good start. start by getting rid of that blob of solder, so that the contact surfaces of that ring is flat. the ring bit just pops up, and if you remove the adjustable centre pin , then the bit on the left is loose too, so you can work on it. You'll quickly figure out where the weak points are.
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 4, 2015 13:20:17 GMT
dupe, ignore
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Jun 4, 2015 13:21:48 GMT
Oh dear That's looks very shoddy doesn't it. I think I'll stop wasting my money on cheap crap and just get another squonk flask. Unless of course @windows comes up with a small dna40 squonker
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 13:22:27 GMT
That's good vern I bet it makes a lot of difference, but you should do the negative as well as I'm very sure you know having watched many of you videos (you swung me on the FT Pisces a couple of years ago, still waiting to know how you got it to fit a 18350 btw).
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 4, 2015 13:23:48 GMT
Probably, better wire would be a good start. start by getting rid of that blob of solder, so that the contact surfaces of that ring is flat. the ring bit just pops up, and if you remove the adjustable centre pin , then the bit on the left is loose too, so you can work on it. You'll quickly figure out where the weak points are. Good call, I haven't got a build on it yet, but the dremel is still plugged in.
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 4, 2015 13:28:45 GMT
well, if you're into handyman mode already..do the solder blob mod, and replace the bottom contact with a spring from e.g. a vamo or similar. That solves all the bad contact areas for normal out and about usage. The firing pin has a shoulder which should contact the ring bit perfectly, except the battery stops it form going down all the way, and the bottom spring thing is way too hard to allow the battery to move lower when the ubtton is pushed. hope that makes sense, but out the box it mostly fires on the side of the firing pin, which quickly gets blackened and creates bad contact.
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 4, 2015 13:33:08 GMT
I though I had posted this already, but now that you have the box, and my paragraph above, this video will make more sense. the movement in the battery is the switch bottoming out on the ring. Without the battery movement, you can see the switch is about half mm too high to connect to the ring part properly. Of course, it does depend on the battery
ok, enough rabbiting...:-)
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