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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2015 8:03:58 GMT
Sounds like you have a loose connection.
Try adjusting the pins a bit.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 8:51:00 GMT
Sounds like you have a loose connection. Try adjusting the pins a bit. Sorry, I should have said that I'd tested the Subtank on both iSticks, with same result, and the iSticks have no issue with other tanks. My bad.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2015 8:59:25 GMT
Next check then is the coils.......are they definitely inserted correctly and tightened down........nothing loose?
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 9:19:33 GMT
Next check then is the coils.......are they definitely inserted correctly and tightened down........nothing loose? tbh I'm using the ones that were already attached to the tank. Maybe on the first wicking, a few days ago, I did something wrong in vaping too soon, burnt the coil a bit? The Subtank mini wicking I did is fine, going strong. Just having issues with the Subtank.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2015 9:33:20 GMT
Have you checked the screws.....tightened them down?
Over time they can loosen off......and you will get the readings you're getting.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 10:10:01 GMT
Have you checked the screws.....tightened them down? Over time they can loosen off......and you will get the readings you're getting. Quick pic first of what coils look like ... surprised there's next to no juice showing on the cotton, despite full tank. And you were right, screws were loose! Tightened them, and made sure not touching ... this time firing up to remove crud, only one coil is glowing. Thinking the coils were already on their way out, for sure. Going to use the other set that came in the kit; first time, but looks straightforward (clippers ready).
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 10:32:30 GMT
It's just too fiddly; I can't stabilise the 2 coils or get the 2 wires each side to catch under. Given up with the Subtank for now, lol. Are their coiling kits or something? The muji is brilliant, but double coiling is way too fiddly for me, lol. Just managed to do a single coil (without plyers) and when fired up to test, fell off ie wire snapped and actual centre bit fell onto 'plinth'.
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on May 20, 2015 10:59:04 GMT
check the post screws, the wicking may have moved the legs and loosened the connection perhaps?leg chopping can be a pita, thats when you have overtightened the post screws, someone suggested replacing the screws and posted an ebay link, tho i cant find that right now .. i found coilling wire thinner than 0.4mm a real pita and have bought premade coils from fasttech for the higher resistance coils which i find easier to just fit rather than make and deform in the tweezers and heat before throwing away and repeating the process. www.fasttech.com/products/2211902 for example.. thats a lifetime supply imho..
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2015 11:00:26 GMT
You burnt the coil legs off.
You need low power to fire a coil initially
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 11:29:52 GMT
Yes, coil is now legless, lol. I wanted to be sure at 24w it would be safe. Have put a standard coil in for now, but rewicked the Subtank mini (no coiling) and that's doing fine. I'd noticed with the Subtank that the actual coil base wasn't stable; part of it was moving, and I had to move it back into line. Might be workwoman blaming her tools here, lol, but at this point I think single coiling is more realistic plus I need some plyers for sure.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 11:31:47 GMT
check the post screws, the wicking may have moved the legs and loosened the connection perhaps?leg chopping can be a pita, thats when you have overtightened the post screws, someone suggested replacing the screws and posted an ebay link, tho i cant find that right now .. i found coilling wire thinner than 0.4mm a real pita and have bought premade coils from fasttech for the higher resistance coils which i find easier to just fit rather than make and deform in the tweezers and heat before throwing away and repeating the process. www.fasttech.com/products/2211902 for example.. thats a lifetime supply imho.. Thanks, and I agree it was a total pita to try to double coil, for sure. The wire's so flimsy. Thanks for the link! Got so much wicking stuff from Muji; having a gazillion coils (plus plyers and patience, lol) will be great. Was the original wire only 0.1? EDIT: just seen can select thicknesses (observant today!) ... so, going for 0.6 would be the strongest. No idea re ohms; would that be going towards 2 ohms?
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on May 20, 2015 11:50:09 GMT
Thicker wire is for lower resistance coils (sub ohm) thinner wire has a greater resistance afaik 5-8 coils gives a nice area to atomise the juice, fewer coils and you cut down on the vapour it can produce, This tool www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp will let you plug in wire sizes and coil diameter/number to plan coils and sus the relationship between wire size coil diameter and number of coils and the resulting resistance.. the number of coils also increases the resistance the thinner wire is harder to compact in tweezers and maintain a good shape, im kak handed with the thin wire and find it way too tricky to hold in a tight coil in tweezers and the results always come out deformed it needs a lighter touch than im capable of.
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kittyvape
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Post by kittyvape on May 20, 2015 12:14:45 GMT
Thicker wire is for lower resistance coils (sub ohm) thinner wire has a greater resistance afaik 5-8 coils gives a nice area to atomise the juice, fewer coils and you cut down on the vapour it can produce, This tool www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp will let you plug in wire sizes and coil diameter/number to plan coils and sus the relationship between wire size coil diameter and number of coils and the resulting resistance.. the number of coils also increases the resistance the thinner wire is harder to compact in tweezers and maintain a good shape, im kak handed with the thin wire and find it way too tricky to hold in a tight coil in tweezers and the results always come out deformed it needs a lighter touch than im capable of. wow, you know your stuff. Thanks for explaining. My brain sometimes just doesn't work with maths/science stuff, but then I never thought I'd wick and I am, lol. I'll bookmark the link to look at at some point; thanks . And I'm very art/crafts and have done some fiddly jobs, but this took the biscuit, lol, for sure. Am I basically safe to order the 0.5 or 0.6 pack from fasttech and stick that on the Subtank, and that'll be just a little bit less warm/flavoured vape?
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on May 20, 2015 13:15:51 GMT
im only a week or so ahead of you kittyvape fwiw the wire i use for sub ohm coils is 0.4mm or 26awg and 2 x 7 coil coils give circa 0.3 -0.4 ohm in a 2 coil goblin, SO I HOPE IF IM DISHING OUT BAD INFO SOMEONE WILL SWOOP IN AND CORRECT ME!! both my single coil attys a lemo 2 and subtank (now here yipee!!) are still running with the factory fitted coils which afaik are both 0.5mm wire.. 0.6mm may be a bit too thick unless your chasing the clouds and really going for a very low resistance??
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lisburnvapes
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Post by lisburnvapes on May 20, 2015 13:29:36 GMT
Thicker wire also takes longer to heat up, so maybe not as 'instant ' as you're used to, so you may need more power, more power means shorter battery life, it's all about what's right for you , personally I use .32 in my rebuildables, to me this is a trade off between ease of use and lower ohms, if I want lower build then I tend to go for dual coil
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