Coils a few things.

[smokin100516]

Hi all.

I'm going to start buying things to build coils but I have a few questions ........ surprisingly

Firstly why do some people build spaced out coils and some people build coils and press them together with tweezers to make one solid coil?

Secondly the size of hole in the centre, is this defined by how much wick you would like in there? I could build a 2mm or a 2.5mm but what is the real difference?

Thirdly why the different thickness of wire? I suppose it has something to do with resistance but why not just wrap it round more or less for different resistances.

All in all I was thinking of making a 1.5ohm coil round a 2mm rod using .25 kanthal and either pressing it together or leaving it open but I don't have a clue whether it would be right or wrong.

Sorry for the daft questions I'm sort of struggling

Also is an ohm meter jobby worth getting or can I just test the ohms on my istick?

[Greg]

TBH it's a bit of a case of trial and error for what works best for you. Some will champion microcoils (no gaps) and other swear spaced coils are better, you need to find out what works best for you.

1.5ohm with 2.5mm ID is I'd suggest a decent starting point for you to start. 0.25mm Kanthal is also a decent starting point although I'd recommend you also get some 0.3mm too. There might not sound to be much difference between the two sizes but you'll be surprised the difference in thickness and how much easier it is to use the 0.3mm when your starting out.

You can use your mod to check your coil resistance although you may wish to consider a dedicated ohm meeting as they do provide a much better stable base to build on compared to your mod.

Hope that helps a bit, it's really not difficult with a little practice.
Stealthvape are a great company for kanthal and if you use them don't forget to add free jap cotton to your order

[smokin100516]

Thank you very much, I shall go and open more tabs and look for more stuff. I think you are right though with a bit of trial and error, maybe I also need to buy more bases to switch and swap around and compare.

I now see how this can start to get expensive

[Get Off My Cloud]

I tend to use touching coils in drippers and spaced coils in tanks, depending on the tank touching coils can choke off the flow of juice a little so a spaced coil helps to wick easier, it's not an issue in drippers where you're manually introducing juice to the coil.
If you're going down the touching coil route i really do recommend a coiler kit like the Kuro or Coilmaster type they really make the job much easier no faffing about squeezing with tweezers and blowtorching the coil.
Get one of those stepped coiling rods for spaced coils too they're only like a quid or so on FT and you have a full range of diameters to work with.

[phatfil]

www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
is a great tool to help you design your coils (diameter and number of wraps) to provide the resistance you want.

thicker 0.4mm+ wire is easier to coil imho and great for single or double sub ohm coils, higher resistance coils need thinner more fiddly wire tho i could just be kak handed..

the Kuro coil tools look the business and do produce nice coils in all the utube vids, i cant quite get the hang of em tho.. i use a fasttech sourced mandrel with diameters from 1mm to 3mm generally using 2-3mm diameters ..

nail clippers make a great set of wire snippers and allow you to get up close to pole posts in an atty a lot nearer than the slanted wire snippers

a market stall 'blow torch' lighter is the best tool for heating coils off power.. www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008365/1751401-am-136-adjustable-flame-butane-jet-torch


so you dont need to spend loads on bits n pieces, just grab a spool or 2 of the wire you will use (based on the resistance of the coils you want - use the above tool ) and a $2 mandrel www.fasttech.com/p/1986902

ceramic tipped tweezers are expensive a £1 pair of wilco's SS tweezers work well for me, just hold em 2 inches down from where u apply heat if making a closed coil..

[smokin100516]

Screw it I'm getting one of these www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/OSCILLATION-OVERTHRUSTER

[smokin100516]

Jun 11, 2015 18:48:22 GMT Get Off My Cloud said:

I tend to use touching coils in drippers and spaced coils in tanks, depending on the tank touching coils can choke off the flow of juice a little so a spaced coil helps to wick easier, it's not an issue in drippers where you're manually introducing juice to the coil.
If you're going down the touching coil route i really do recommend a coiler kit like the Kuro or Coilmaster type they really make the job much easier no faffing about squeezing with tweezers and blowtorching the coil.
Get one of those stepped coiling rods for spaced coils too they're only like a quid or so on FT and you have a full range of diameters to work with.

Thanks I've been looking at coiling tools, they seem a good idea

[smokin100516]

Jun 11, 2015 18:52:26 GMT phatfil said:

www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
is a great tool to help you design your coils (diameter and number of wraps) to provide the resistance you want.

thicker 0.4mm+ wire is easier to coil imho and great for single or double sub ohm coils, higher resistance coils need thinner more fiddly wire tho i could just be kak handed..

the Kuro coil tools look the business and do produce nice coils in all the utube vids, i cant quite get the hang of em tho.. i use a fasttech sourced mandrel with diameters from 1mm to 3mm generally using 2-3mm diameters ..

nail clippers make a great set of wire snippers and allow you to get up close to pole posts in an atty a lot nearer than the slanted wire snippers

a market stall 'blow torch' lighter is the best tool for heating coils off power.. www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008365/1751401-am-136-adjustable-flame-butane-jet-torch


so you dont need to spend loads on bits n pieces, just grab a spool or 2 of the wire you will use (based on the resistance of the coils you want - use the above tool ) and a $2 mandrel www.fasttech.com/p/1986902

ceramic tipped tweezers are expensive a £1 pair of wilco's SS tweezers work well for me, just hold em 2 inches down from where u apply heat if making a closed coil..

I'm car booting on sunday so I will keep an eye out for the things I need. It's been a while so hopefully there are some vape stalls there. I also peruse the tool kits at work for things I may need

[phatfil]

Jun 11, 2015 18:53:40 GMT smokin100516 said:

Screw it I'm getting one of these www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/OSCILLATION-OVERTHRUSTER

you must have got the last one too ..  sure beats the need for fiddly coils

[glen]

Jun 11, 2015 18:53:40 GMT smokin100516 said:

Screw it I'm getting one of these www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/OSCILLATION-OVERTHRUSTER

You actually made me go and look at that, nearly spat my tea out lol

[pipeman01]

damn, out of stock.. seemed like a steal at that price

[prr]

What atty are trying to coil for smokin100516 what you need depends on the device you are using. Can recommend the kuro coilers, I can use .25 mm in them but a lot of people have probe with that, just bought some .32mm and this wraps easy. The beauty of the kuro coiler is that because the coils are wound under tension there is no need to compress them and torch them

[toots]

Jun 11, 2015 18:53:40 GMT smokin100516 said:

Screw it I'm getting one of these www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/OSCILLATION-OVERTHRUSTER

why not buy 2 or even 3

[smokin100516]

Jun 11, 2015 19:55:39 GMT prr said:

What atty are trying to coil for smokin100516 what you need depends on the device you are using. Can recommend the kuro coilers, I can use .25 mm in them but a lot of people have probe with that, just bought some .32mm and this wraps easy. The beauty of the kuro coiler is that because the coils are wound under tension there is no need to compress them and torch them

It's a subtank mini. I've seen a coiling dealy here, www.stealthvape.co.uk/rebuildable-supplies/coil-winding-tool that seems to be the same thing, Does it need to be a Kuro?

[prr]

Very similar, the kuro has a fixed pin, but works in the same way