Surely it can't be this hard?

[Get Off My Cloud]

Jun 16, 2015 15:59:01 GMT Jerri said:

Thanks to all for the tips and patience!

Once I found the 3mm small screw driver it was a lot easier. Still took a few tries to gent it right and have a coil glowing from the outside in.

I even managed to fill it with zero leaks! Was convinced it's leak out the air holes as I'd seen on a few vids.

Before this I'd only used protanks so didn't really get the whole lung hits thing.

An hour after building my first rta I'm now taking massive lung hits. Air flow wide open. Amazing!

Was convinced mouth to lung was the way I'd always vape. What a difference massive air flow makes.

Got a few igo l drippers on the way from FT to practice on.

Will the wire and 3mm coiler be okay for those or should I order thinner wire and the thinner coiler?

You can get the full set of sizes of Kuro coilers on FT cheap, i mostly use the 2.5mm myself.
www.fasttech.com/products/3034/10012175/2127501-kuro-koiler-cw-wire-coiling-tool-w-hex-key-kit

After i've wound the coil on the Kuro coiler i transfer it onto one of these stepped coiling rods it's just easier to hold while you're tightening down the screws on the deck.
www.fasttech.com/products/3034/10012274/2082103-coil-building-rods-for-rda-rba-rta-rebuildable

[Jerri]

Jun 16, 2015 17:24:51 GMT Get Off My Cloud said:

Jun 16, 2015 15:59:01 GMT Jerri said:

Thanks to all for the tips and patience!

Once I found the 3mm small screw driver it was a lot easier. Still took a few tries to gent it right and have a coil glowing from the outside in.

I even managed to fill it with zero leaks! Was convinced it's leak out the air holes as I'd seen on a few vids.

Before this I'd only used protanks so didn't really get the whole lung hits thing.

An hour after building my first rta I'm now taking massive lung hits. Air flow wide open. Amazing!

Was convinced mouth to lung was the way I'd always vape. What a difference massive air flow makes.

Got a few igo l drippers on the way from FT to practice on.

Will the wire and 3mm coiler be okay for those or should I order thinner wire and the thinner coiler?

You can get the full set of sizes of Kuro coilers on FT cheap, i mostly use the 2.5mm myself.
www.fasttech.com/products/3034/10012175/2127501-kuro-koiler-cw-wire-coiling-tool-w-hex-key-kit

After i've wound the coil on the Kuro coiler i transfer it onto one of these stepped coiling rods it's just easier to hold while you're tightening down the screws on the deck.
www.fasttech.com/products/3034/10012274/2082103-coil-building-rods-for-rda-rba-rta-rebuildable

Thanks. I was going to order the set from FT but had ordered everything else from the UK and didn't fancy waiting.

They're in my basket now though so will order them anyway. Can't hurt to have all sizes.

I found a tiny screw driver that fit perfectly so used that to hold the coil in place to catch the wire and tighten the screws. Was much easier than. Still messed up two coils before I got it right mind haha.

[chykensa]

Good advice from Get Off My Cloud - even if I use my Kuro Coiler, I always transfer to my mandrel for building. I've now got the knack of balancing the mandrel on the top of my weak hand whilst tinkering and fettling with my stronger left hand.
It does take time, but one you have built a few decent ones in a row, and coped with a few mystery leaks and shorts, you'll emerge a wiser and more knowledgeable person, able to coil anything if you have Steam Engine to hand.
Fire up the link as above www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp and add your statistics of your successful build to the relevant boxes. Make sure it's set to 'Single Coil', the correct wire diameter, and 'leg length' about 5 or 6mm to start with.
One by one, change the settings, i.e. a thicker or thinner wire, and see what difference it makes to the number of wraps required in the right hand box. Reset to your original settings, and change something else, for example the inner diameter (in other words, the diameter of the mandrel or screwdriver you are using).
Once you have done this a few times, you will start understanding the difference something makes to the number of wraps.

Then, look more closely at the right hand box. In the line which starts heat flux and then a changeable box, after that there is a coloured symbol. By changing the wattage using the up and down arrows in the type-in box, you can see what wattage would be best for your coil(s). This helps you to decide which mod to use the coiled tank on, depending on the wattage required to get that symbol bright green. Too little power and the colour goes towards blue, and too much it goes towards red.

It won't take you long to realise that it's simply a matter of selecting your resistance (ohms) that you want, add the wire that you have, and see how many wraps it needs based on the diameter of your former. Then use the right-hand box to work out what power will suit it best.

It's a great tool, and I check my figures every time I come to wind a coil or too.

Hope this helps

[Jerri]

Jun 16, 2015 17:13:42 GMT phatfil said:

If your coiling for the subtank and want sub ohm coils, I would get some thicker wire 0.4mm(26awg),

Now you can relax revisit the steam engine link and have a play about once you have it sussed it is an invaluable tool for determining what wire and coil count to use arround what sized mandrel

No. I don't think I'll be sub ohmning. I tried a friends 0.5ohm build and didn't really enjoy it that much. So aiming for not anyway, to stick to 1.2. This one is reading 1.4 and vapes great!

[chykensa]

Jerri - having said all the above, with careful cleaning, and a dry burn every few tanks, that coil could go on for at least 2 months, maybe longer, by which time you'll have forgotten what you did before and will be asking for help again LOL

[Get Off My Cloud]

Jerri yep a screwdriver will do the job as long as you have the right size, i use that rod because it has all the different diameters on the one tool.

[Jerri]

Jun 16, 2015 17:43:29 GMT chykensa said:

Jerri - having said all the above, with careful cleaning, and a dry burn every few tanks, that coil could go on for at least 2 months, maybe longer, by which time you'll have forgotten what you did before and will be asking for help again LOL

Hahaha probably!

Dry burning and reworking I can do! I've used the recoiled protank heads like that and gotten months out of them. Let's hope the coil stands up!

I was careful not to over pack the wick so it should come out easily.

[Jerri]

Jun 16, 2015 17:47:02 GMT Get Off My Cloud said:

Jerri yep a screwdriver will do the job as long as you have the right size, i use that rod because it has all the different diameters on the one tool.

Have stuck one in the basket anyway. Can't hurt to have it around!