phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 0:05:42 GMT
when coiling with Ni200 wire for a temp control mod should i be aiming for an open/spaced coil or closed/tight coil?
if open/spaced is a machine screw a good idea to use as a forming mandrel? or is a more open design preferable?
many thanks for advice and input..
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 24, 2015 0:11:37 GMT
Yes open/spaced and yes blakey told me it goes better after having a screw, it should be easier with a screw and less problematic to space them, but not absolutely essential.
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glen
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Post by glen on Jun 24, 2015 0:15:05 GMT
Hot topic of discussion phatfilI micro coiled mine, but have been informed that it is better to have spaced I have had no issues with mine, so far , but I would imagine that there are others on here with much more experience than myself, sorry I cannot help more I just found I needed to do that to give myself more room on the actual deck
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 24, 2015 0:20:10 GMT
Close/touching coils can short very easily between loops and even if they are OK before you wick them putting the wick in or a knock can sometimes cause to loops to short. I have done a few touching coils that worked, but wouldn't recommend it.
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 0:32:42 GMT
Think its probably where you were advised to go spaced that has led to my question.. Ive been vaping with my TC mod for aboiut a week now and so far have mainly been using subtank clone bases with Ni200 OCC heads under bellcaps.. the kanger Ni200 OCC heads should have a resistance of 0.15ohm, and my TC mod reads them @ between 0.13 and 0.17 ohm, which to me seems like a reasonable variance..
However when i make a coil myself aimed at 0.2 ohms and confirmed on a dedicated 510 ohms reader (Closed/tight) and place that on the TC mod its ohm reading can vary substantially, I started off by just pulling the atty and reattaching until i liked the ohm reading i got off the mod, But as i read more about Temp control im wondering if the error was/is down to the coils being tight/touching and if so is the same degree of error in the resistance reading going to creep in when fireing and the coil resistance is being monitored for control reasons and effecting the validity of the temp control???
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 0:35:22 GMT
cheers VapingBad, so would you sugest a machine screw form as a good idea? u replied while i was typing and i missed ur 1st answe.. so yes a screw i shall sorce and try again, the coils shorting would explain the varying resistance readings, it it wasnt for some readings on what should be 0.2 ohm reading as 2-3 ohm??
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 24, 2015 0:37:02 GMT
Think its probably where you were advised to go spaced that has led to my question.. Ive been vaping with my TC mod for aboiut a week now and so far have mainly been using subtank clone bases with Ni200 OCC heads under bellcaps.. the kanger Ni200 OCC heads should have a resistance of 0.15ohm, and my TC mod reads them @ between 0.13 and 0.17 ohm, which to me seems like a reasonable variance.. However when i make a coil myself aimed at 0.2 ohms and confirmed on a dedicated 510 ohms reader (Closed/tight) and place that on the TC mod its ohm reading can vary substantially, I started off by just pulling the atty and reattaching until i liked the ohm reading i got off the mod, But as i read more about Temp control im wondering if the error was/is down to the coils being tight/touching and if so is the same degree of error in the resistance reading going to creep in when fireing and the coil resistance is being monitored for control reasons and effecting the validity of the temp control??? Couldd be, they will expand a little when heated and if just on the borderline or get knocked it can shift your resistance,
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letsavit
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Post by letsavit on Jun 24, 2015 0:39:28 GMT
Spaced with minimal wraps for me. 5-6 wraps a plenty.....
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 0:40:52 GMT
will give spaced on a screw form a go then. and will need to reduce the wick bulk as to not pull on the coil when threading..
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Jun 24, 2015 0:41:21 GMT
cheers VapingBad, so would you sugest a machine screw form as a good idea? u replied while i was typing Yes, I vape a genesis atty most of the time so don't do it myself, but from what I hear it works very well. Not a new idea I remember this video from 2013, and it wasn't new then.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2015 7:58:31 GMT
phatfil I think those who bought into the DNA40 early days (of which VapingBad was the first) found by trial and error that spaced coils gave more reliable resistance readings. 3mm dia seems to work best for me plus any smaller and the length goes up which can be a problem as mentioned by glen We also found many other things that really ought have been highlighted by Evolv, their customer support in that respect was and still is sadly lacking. The screw method is a good one, another is to use a Kuro type coiler. This is used by many as it makes a very neat contact coil. If you fit this in place on the deck and then when secure gently pull at either end with tweezers you can tease the coil out to give a neatly spaced coil in situ. I find gentle pulsing at low power and only to a very dull red (do it in the dark) to bed the coil in and identify any problems is essential. Beware if it's a DNA40 and you use Celsius, it may suffer from the celsius bug, if so you'll put 40w through the coil no matter what power you set and it'll light up like Blackpool illuminations.
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phatfil
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Post by phatfil on Jun 24, 2015 11:39:07 GMT
Cheers @scooby, I do use the Celcius scale on my mod, a Dovpo 50w TC tho the starting power is never set above 25w
I tend to heat the coil on a separate mod box without TC which tends to read the resistance consistently with the ohm reader well within reasonable variance +/- 0.01-2 ohms off perhaps.
Where i have been 'screwing up' is with the wick thickness as i have deformed/pulled the coils somewhat with wicking..
Good job i have the OCC coils to keep me vaping while i sus all this out.. I am also using 0.32mm (awg28) Ni200 wire, so have ordered some 0.2 and 0.25mm wires as well.. i will grab some machine screws tomorrow,
This is very reassuring as after reading some of the TC woes and buying a smock m80 for the TC without doing the back reading which would have told me its not very good at TC I was begining to doubt the Dovpo box which has not given me one dry hit and which i push till the tank is dry..
for sure my number 1 tip for anyone venturing into TC is to use an atty with Ni200 or other supported Pre made coil heads to start with, they provide you with a fgrace period within which the nickel building skills and can be acquired (hopefully)
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2015 12:01:39 GMT
I have 3 DNA40 devices phatfil and use celsius, on all of them when I turn off no matter what power I set it still pumps out 40w. I can't regulate the power switching off from celsius. If I change to Fahrenheit then turn off the power is controlled as it should and I can set a low wattage to bed the coil in. Twisting thinner stands together makes a more robust coil due to work hardening, you'll then find it easier to wick without deforming the coil. I only use twisted coils now.
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 24, 2015 13:37:15 GMT
phatfil there's some discussion today on the fasttech forums re: dovpo 50w tc not doing what it should whenc oming out of sleep...worth a read, and may possibly relate to your questions
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vern
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Post by vern on Jun 24, 2015 13:40:13 GMT
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