Ni200 coils for temp control mods

[phatfil]

Cheers vern, I cant say i have had the problems reported with it cutting straight to Off after waking from sleep.

The only problem i have had is with diy coils and vastly differing resistance readings..

with the Ni200 occ heads in my subtank clone bases the resistance read varies by +/- 0.02 ohms which if i understand things could be accounted for by differences in ambient temp as the resistance changes with something like 0.005866 ohms per degree Celsius change.

Only poster Baldar posted a pic of his coil and his complaint was a variance of +/- 0.01 ohm from one day to the next which is an acceptable error and can be accounted for by ambient temperature fluctuations..

i suspect that the other folk have coiled touching/shorting coils which I have discovered to generate vastly varying resistance readings which could perhaps explain the behaviour exhibited.. - glad i didnt read that before buying it would have put me off ....



reference
www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-12/temperature-coefficient-resistance/

[hogweed]

Jun 24, 2015 0:05:42 GMT phatfil said:

when coiling with Ni200 wire for a temp control mod should i be aiming for an open/spaced coil or closed/tight coil?

if open/spaced is a machine screw a good idea to use as a forming mandrel? or is a more open design preferable?

many thanks for advice and input..

I just did my first Nickel coil for my Kanger Sub Tank RBA section and did a tightly wrapped coil using the Kuro Coiler and 28 gauge Ni200 wire. The thing hits like a steam train! The TC seems to work fine and shows a resistance of around 0.18 ohms. But I have noticed I need to set it at around 220 celsius or it is too overpowering (I have good lungs and like a thick mosit vape) whereas the Kanger prebuilt nickel OCC coils don't produce enough vapour even at max settings. What a disappontment Kangertech! If I turn the temp down, it goes down and vice versa, so the TC must be working and I have had no burnt or dry hits yet. Not sure if this is totally wrong or dangerous as I heard the problem is hot spots on the coil, but when I did a test dry burn it glowed evenly from the inside out like any good Kanthal coil would.

[hogweed]

Jun 24, 2015 0:11:37 GMT VapingBad said:

Yes open/spaced and yes blakey told me it goes better after having a screw, it should be easier with a screw and less problematic to space them, but not absolutely essential.

I have tried the screw method and you have to wind it onto the screw itself. You can't wind it then put the screw in and space the wraps as being Nickel, the wire just springs back to touching each other. But I did a tight micro coil type build and it vapes great on the eVic vT60. Of course there is still the possibility that something will happen, but so far so good. Only prob I heard with tight coils is hot spots and TC isn't accurate, but I don't vape at a setting, I vape at what setting gives me the vapour I like, so who gives a shit what temp the thing says it is running at?