Grandad
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Post by Grandad on Jun 28, 2015 14:57:15 GMT
Started building a 1590a hammond box mod soon be putting in the battery which i will solder direct, My question is can i use (pic at the bottom) this battery which i picked up as a spare for my VS dna30 but only 1200mah or should i stick with a samsung 25r which is 2500mah. I know the 25r will last a lot longer but trying to make a little space also will be sub ohming with this mod its the dna 30 chip im fitting. TIA Grandad
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prr
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Post by prr on Jun 28, 2015 15:03:13 GMT
Don't know mate, tagging Ripshod who knows about these things!
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 28, 2015 17:48:10 GMT
Personally I'd stick with the 25R Grandad. 20Amp/2500mAh Vs 18Amp/1200mAh. Don't quote me but I'm sure the Turnigys are also LiCo which flame when they vent (TBC). **Confirmed**Thanks for the tag prr thumb up
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Grandad
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Post by Grandad on Jun 28, 2015 19:01:05 GMT
Thanks Ripshod I didn't realise the Turnigys vented that way so they would be no good as a backup when my VS batt dies ? 25r all the way then, glad I asked as wasn't sure. Thank you for replying
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Greg
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Post by Greg on Jun 28, 2015 19:07:21 GMT
Grandad The thing is with soldering to batteries you need to do it with a high temp iron that can maintain the heat when you heat the wire and battery. You also need to do it very quickly in say 3-4 seconds, heat is very bad for batteries and can do damage. It might be wise to do,a little reading up on this before attempting, there's lots of great info for this on the usual torch forums. Alternatively you can wing it and hope for the best but I recommend the former
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Grandad
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Post by Grandad on Jun 28, 2015 19:13:28 GMT
Thanks Greg this is why I wanted to ask the questions 1st and knew you guys would point me in the right direction. I've decided against hard wiring I have a cradle that I will fit instead will be tight but not worth trying something I've never done. Thanks for the info all really appreciated.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 28, 2015 21:54:43 GMT
There are long tabs on each end of that battery that you solder to. If you remove the yellow insulation from each end, unfold the tab and solder to that. Tin the end of the tabs and your wires first then when you hold them together your will only need a couple of seconds of heat to make the connection. I have done loads of vs battery changes with no problems. If you dont make the connection first time, walk away and let things cool.
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thatguy
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Post by thatguy on Jun 28, 2015 22:46:54 GMT
Very good advice @windows , seen many a component destroyed by not doing this, and with batteries the results could be worse than failure, could be catastrophic.
Another handy little tip if you are doing much soldering is to have a bunch of heat sinks lying around (ripped from old power transistors, PCs, power supplies etc. They can speed up the cooling down process and also help to cool components while still letting wires and solder heat up sufficiently. In the case of batteries, just hold the heatsink to the terminal you were soldering. The cooling wont be optimal since no thermal compound is used, but it can speed things up if you find yourself resoldering often.
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