Mesh help

[Deleted]

Hi daft question but I've never used before, do you have to still use cotton on a mesh wick ? I'm ready to go, all burnt up just wanted to check if I need to also cotton up the coils

Thanks

Yep I'm a mesh noob

[Deleted]

No but you can do

[Deleted]

Brilliant thank you, that saves me swearing trying to get the cotton to fit

[Deleted]

best to use a higher pg juice with mesh I find. good luck

[thatguy]

You can use cotton, but many people prefer to use a steel rope core. Personally, I avoid the issue altogether on gennys like my krakens by using a thinner jap cotton wick than normal and vertical microcoils @2mm. Mesh wicks can be great but some juices taste kinda trippy on them, so I've been using cotton for vestatility.

Rewicking a kraken takes about 30 seconds for a dual coil so cotton does me fine.

[Deleted]

Thank you both, ok I'm gonna dive in now and hopefully I get some success. If not its back to what I know

If it works there will be pics if it don't there won't

[Deleted]

I'm a mesh noob myself mate it either goes really well or horribly wrong and you think wtf it's not worth it but when you get it right it's brill.

[geordie_vaper]

Jul 8, 2015 22:50:45 GMT @tedster said:

Brilliant thank you, that saves me swearing trying to get the cotton to fit

you will be swearing but not because of cotton haha

[geordie_vaper]

this took me a good hour and a half haha

[Deleted]

Given up, will try in the morning, all I had was spilt juice and ewwwwwww nasty nasty taste. There was loads of swearing also ! Now back on a dripper ... Safe ground lol

[monty]

My tips for making mesh easier.

• Use 0.4mm or 0.32mm and close to a micro coil ie almost touching coils. The more turns in your coil the less likely you are to get a hot spot between wick and centre post.
• Light torching of the wick
• Use drill bit method or wrap around the wick and then remove the wick so that you can fire the coil without the wick. This is a belt and braces approach - you are oxidising both the Kanthal and the wick
• Make the wick so that there is some above the coil. It is easier ro remove the wick for dry burning and cleaning
• When you tighten the bolt on the centre post, it will either try to pull in the Kanthal or push it out, depending which side of the post the Kanthal goes, Use the pull in side because it is easier to stop it pulling in.
• A mesh wick can take a while to taste right. With baccy I find first 15ml on a new wick awful and 30ml before it tastes really good. I have tried loads of things. The only thing that has worked for me is to use a chocolate or cafe latte juice when it's new
• Once you have it working don't be tempted to poll it down and do a better job

I vape 75% on gennys and just made my first new wick of 2015. Once set up they are low faff

[VapingBad]

Almost no break-in tome with ss rope core and less leaky, but harder to find a drill bit or rod the right size to pre wind coils. I clean them by a dry burn very dark red then blast them with a hand-heald steam cleaner or put the whole atty in the ultrasonic with just water, I do this once or twice a week with Kantal or about every 2 or 3 weeks with temp limiting nickel builds. Compared to cotton with my liquid that I change after 4 ml with Kanthal and wash after about 12 ml with temp limiting it is a lot less faff, I have a Kanthal build that is 11 months old and still good here, nickel is not last as ling as I have to use 0.16 mm wire that is easy to snap.

The easiest thing to get wrong building is to make the coil too tight, you want to be just able to twist the wick in the coil, but not so lose that you can shake the wick out.

[yourgurnard]

I'm even using mesh in Kanger heads now!....Tho' this is down to using NETs....cotton clogs up just by placing the packet NEXT TO a bottle of My juice!!!