My SDK frankenego

[domesticextremist]

So, I managed to gunge up my auto switch with juice and after a bout
of late nigth curiosity, I was left with this:



Oops!

After researching where to get the right bits
I was in a position to follow in the footsteps of Mikrosoft (originator) and Maccafan (who gave som every helpful advice).

[domesticextremist]

Got the stitch and button from Liberty Flights,(less than
£2 a peice with discount and free shipping) and a connector
donated by Bluemagnum (many thanks):



The circuit board is marked up with connection indications -

B- battery negative
B+ battery positive
HOT atty connector positive (centre pin



The oblligatory crappite leads are soldered to the back:

[domesticextremist]

After removing the ruddixh cables, first job is to solder
up the battery negative and negative lead to the bottom cap.
The latter completes the circuit to the atty when the switch is
pressed.




Then solder up the battery positive, and attach the circuit board.

[domesticextremist]

Then insert from the bottom up into the SDK case.
Push the bottom cap in with finger pressure only at
this stage.

[domesticextremist]

By this point I had made three errors, one nearly fatal.

• I used way too much insulation tape over the battery terminals
  so that it wouldn't fit inside the case. Use just enough to cover the
  terminals.
  
• I didn't fit the circuit holder. It pushes on from the bottom up and
  is far easier to fit with the battery out of the tube.
  
• I left far too much exposed lead ate the solder point to the circuit
  board. Whilst manipulating to fit the connector, I managed to touch both
  of these against the case and short the battery - only for half a second.
  It got a bit warm () and produced enough heat to desolder one of the
  wires.
  So strip and tin at most 1-2mm of wire and make sure it is soldered
  snugly against the board. Having the holder in place helps prevent any
  unwanted circuits being formed too
  

So it as back to square one for me. Fortunately, there was no damage done
apart to my patience. Second time around, I took my advice above, and
things went together more smoothly.

The next bit is to fit the atty connector wire. Fit the grommet to the connector,
poke the wire through and fit together the case, switch and connector.
This is fiddly as hell, and I didn't take any pics.

Lastly, solder on the connector pin, push the wre back down gently with tweezers
and seat the pin by screwing in a carto.

Check that it vapes properly before tapping everything tightly together with a
mallet

[domesticextremist]

So that's it - not that difficult technically, but fiddly and needs
care. It vapes, it charges withouth exploding or even getting hot
and looks pretty cool with a silver cover cone:



Or a Stardust:



It will power an iMist (auto ones won't):



But looks a bit silly with this drip tip:



Lastly a size comparison:



From top to bottom

• Riva 1100 plus carto plus drip tip
  
• SDK frankenego plus iMist
  
• Sdk auto plus Stardust
  

Enjoy

[HeadHunter]

nice one mate, it's good when you can turn a negative into a positive. It looks pretty nice, perfect for the stealth vape !

[domesticextremist]

It wouldn't have been possible without the input from the other forum members.

It does seem to help the battery life - not having to suck several times to get it
revved up and no overrunning after you stop toking.

The SDK is the perfect out and about stealth vape device

[Gordy]

it does look nice with that matching cone... congrats Dom

[maccafan]

Great work Dom. Excellent photos as always..

You need not have desoldered the wires from the circuit board that comes from LF. They are multicore and do not break if you look at 'em a little too hard like the really brittle ones on the RIVA. It's easier to desolder wires from the battery terminals, trim the wires that come with the circuit board to size and solder it back to the battery than mess around with those tiny solders on the ciruit board.

Anther thing is that the electronics are regulated 3.3volt circuit boards with 5 click protection, even though the LF website says otherwise, as opposed to the original SDK which was unregulated 3.7.

[domesticextremist]

Mar 17, 2012 15:11:15 GMT maccafan said:

Great work Dom. Excellent photos as always..

You need not have desoldered the wires from the circuit board that comes from LF. They are multicore and do not break if you look at 'em a little too hard like the really brittle ones on the RIVA. It's easier to desolder wires from the battery terminals, trim the wires that come with the circuit board to size and solder it back to the battery than mess around with those tiny solders on the ciruit board.

Anther thing is that the electronics are regulated 3.3volt circuit boards with 5 click protection, even though the LF website says otherwise, as opposed to the original SDK which was unregulated 3.7.

Just clicked 5 times - ooh, so they are
OK about the wires - I just assumed they'd be crap
from the get go.
Besides no harm doing the extra soldering - I need the practice.

[Chrissie]

Well done Dom

[Perpetua]

I'll say again Dom . . . you have the patience of a saint with these techmifications.

[stitch]

Love this