iStick 30w not reading Triton

[alexthebear]

Just received my first vape mail through the post a shiny new Aspire Triton to go onto of my iStick 30w and first impressions were fantastic although I will leave my review else where.


The problem I found was after the first few chugs on it, it completely stopped working. The istick was not picking up the atty (new 0.4ohm straight from the box) with the message "atomiser low" on the screen  so I took the tank off, checked both connections were clean and ok and then reassembled so the tank was tight to the stick, at this point I noticed that in the final rotation the atty reading went from 0.4 to 0.0. Before you ask, I did not screw it too tight, just enough for the tank base and stick top to be in full contact and no more . With this in mind I turned the tank back enough for the atty reading to go back to 0.4, which it will stay at fine unless the slightest pressure is applied to the tank (there is a tiny gap, say 0.2mm between the tank and stick, so the tank rocks on the thread) in which it will drop back to 0.0 thus rendering it unusable. 

Any help or info would be really useful before I message the supplier of the triton or take my stick back to the shop tomorrow

many thanks 

[Roscopecotrain]

Sept 2, 2015 20:03:05 GMT alexthebear said:

Just received my first vape mail through the post a shiny new Aspire Triton to go onto of my iStick 30w and first impressions were fantastic although I will leave my review else where.


The problem I found was after the first few chugs on it, it completely stopped working. The istick was not picking up the atty (new 0.4ohm straight from the box) with the message "atomiser low" on the screen  so I took the tank off, checked both connections were clean and ok and then reassembled so the tank was tight to the stick, at this point I noticed that in the final rotation the atty reading went from 0.4 to 0.0. Before you ask, I did not screw it too tight, just enough for the tank base and stick top to be in full contact and no more . With this in mind I turned the tank back enough for the atty reading to go back to 0.4, which it will stay at fine unless the slightest pressure is applied to the tank (there is a tiny gap, say 0.2mm between the tank and stick, so the tank rocks on the thread) in which it will drop back to 0.0 thus rendering it unusable. 

Any help or info would be really useful before I message the supplier of the triton or take my stick back to the shop tomorrow

many thanks 

I am not sure the istick fires below 0.5 ohms alex. It will read lower but not fire. I could be wrong though.

[Get Off My Cloud]

The lowest resistance the 30w iStick will fire is 0.4ohm.
Coils are never exactly bang on so your coil might be 0.36ohms or at least the mod is reading it as under 0.4ohms so it won't fire.
I don't have the iStick 30w but i would guess when the coil is too low it will show 0.0 as the resistance.
Loosening off the pressure or tightening it down will change the resistance reading slightly that's why it fires when you back it out.

[phtumshk]

Presuming it still fires when the tank isnt screwed flush and reading 0.4 Id try backing the head off a 1/4 turn in the base (as long as its still sealing that is).
Some times when everything compresses you may get a short error or attomiser low.

[alexthebear]

Sorry forgot to mention that this had crossed my mind as well. I have checked The Eleaf website which quotes that the 30w will fire 0.4 - 5ohms and I have had it working, even if it was just for 3/4 4sec blasts

[hijack]

all the above ^^^^

[alexthebear]

Sept 2, 2015 20:21:50 GMT phtumshk said:

Presuming it still fires when the tank isnt screwed flush and reading 0.4 Id try backing the head off a 1/4 turn in the base (as long as its still sealing that is).
Some times when everything compresses you may get a short error or attomiser low.

Good call as this is what it said first, which is why I checked the connections. If I unscrew it to the point it reads the atty fine then it can rock slightly causing it to read 0 again. A very thin rubber washer would solve the issue but as the stick is only a week old and the tank 5 mins old, I don't really wish to go down that road. I may take the stick back and ask to swap for it a tc 40w if I pay the difference 

[wildpolecat]

Sept 2, 2015 20:21:50 GMT phtumshk said:

Presuming it still fires when the tank isnt screwed flush and reading 0.4 Id try backing the head off a 1/4 turn in the base (as long as its still sealing that is).
Some times when everything compresses you may get a short error or attomiser low.

had a similar problem corrected by this method on my arctic turned out to be a dodgy coil head new head in problem solved 

[alexthebear]

Sept 2, 2015 20:37:01 GMT wildpolecat said:

Sept 2, 2015 20:21:50 GMT phtumshk said:

Presuming it still fires when the tank isnt screwed flush and reading 0.4 Id try backing the head off a 1/4 turn in the base (as long as its still sealing that is).
Some times when everything compresses you may get a short error or attomiser low.

had a similar problem corrected by this method on my arctic turned out to be a dodgy coil head new head in problem solved 

So replace the whole atty then? Sorry I have yet to build a coil so don't know the ins and outs of one 

[phtumshk]

Nah just the head bit that screws in the base .
Thats the bit I meant to unscrew slightly.

[alexthebear]

Sept 2, 2015 20:58:09 GMT phtumshk said:

Nah just the head bit that screws in the base .
Thats the bit I meant to unscrew slightly.

Ah I see (lightbulb moment there ) trying it now, wish me luck 

[alexthebear]

Sept 2, 2015 20:58:09 GMT phtumshk said:

Nah just the head bit that screws in the base .
Thats the bit I meant to unscrew slightly.

I was unable to unscrew the coil head but I just undid the atty ever so slightly from the base and that seems to have done the trick 

You sir are a legend! I was so deflated as it's my first new bit of kit and I've been waiting all day to try it out so you have made my day 

[wildpolecat]

alexthebear +1 on phtumshk post your atty will have a coil head that screws into the base. im no expert but that was my atties problem i simply unscrewed the coil head and changed that for a new 1 it is possible the coil you were supplied with could be a duffer

[jessica]

Have you tried looking inside the Triton to make sure the atomiser head inside is screwed in properly? That probably isn't the problem (as in that case I think the iStick would probably say "no atomiser" - but it might be worth a try.

[GunJack]

or, put a small thin washer over the 510 connector on the tank so it takes up the gap between stick and tank base, but holding the tank a tad higher in the stick's 510 connector, this should also stop the tank wobbling in the 510 threads