Temperature Control - What am I doing wrong?

[xs2man]

So, I have a few TC devices now, and keep trying them out.  But something just isn't jelling.

Every hit seems weak.  And the temp protection comes in so that the wattage is limited to around 10w or something equally as low.

To be fair, I am using stock Kanger Ni200 coils on my subtank.  But I do have some Ni200 wire for building on drippers.

But the result is usually the same regardless.

[Deleted]

And me! I'm back to using watts. I just don't get tc

[VapingBad]

The stock heads don't have a good rep, a decent rebuildable will give much better results. It may get better if you increase the airflow.

[Get Off My Cloud]

What are you doing wrong?
You're using TC that's what.

Honestly you are not alone i also find TC vaping to be weak and muted, i would rather risk the very occasional dry hit and have a bloody good satisfying vape the other 99.9999% of the time than have a underwhelming vape 100% of the time.

[Darth Vaper]

Don't know if it helps but i did find this while i was researching buying a new mod,

Many temperature controlled devices will only work with Ni-200 Nickel Coil or TI Pure Titanium wire. This is used because when compared to Kanthal or NiChrome they have a more linear relationship between resistance and temperature. As the coil heats the resistance rises since the increase in resistance is a relatively constant value based on its temperature it can use the change in resistance to roughly control temperature within 10° F.

Coils intended for use with temperature control devices are quite different from the standard coils made from Kanthal or Ni-Chrome. Temperature controlled device coils typically have many more wraps. It is quite common for a coil made from Ni-200 to use double or even triple the amount of wraps than a similar coil of the same resistance made from Kanthal or Ni-Chrome. The TC coil builds up heat quickly and requires the additional wraps to “slow it down”. For this reason there is typically even spacing between the wraps of a TC coil. Additionally it’s important to note that Ni-200 or Ti coils have very little electrical resistance altogether. Before temperature control devices Nickel or Titanium coils were not used because there was no way to safely limit the amount of electricity to them and their use would have likely have resulted in injuries and property damage.

[drunkenbum]

It's an experimental process in my experience. Once you find the right build to suit your atty then I can be a great vape. Personally I won't buy a mod now if it can't do temp control.
I've been using a kanger ni head in my nebox and it is lacking compared to my own builds on my RTA's

[Deleted]

Still not getting it ....
Saying that, I squonk and what I'm using is the best so far. Geyscano + cyclone

[juicehead]

I have to admit to being seriously unimpressed with TC. I have at least 4 mods with it and never use it 

[VapingBad]

When you get, I find you can run more power through an atty than with Kanthal plus get a much much quicker heat up and cool down, but for me it's the ability to adjust the flavour of your liquid that is biggest gain.

[car147]

Must admit I am now preferring just running in wattage mode more often now than at any time in the last year. Usually using the .5ohm SS coils in the Crown. Or vertical SS coils in the Aromizer.

[xs2man]

I think I'll try another build with my Ni200. And try and get as much wraps as I can then. See if that helps. I want to like it. But just can't get on with the weakness of it. It's a shame, as I really like my subtanks, but the Ni coils are just weak (shouldn't have bought so many to be fair).  As for airflow, I'm all for fully open.  I never restrict my airflow on anything I use.

I'll try my Crius as it is needing rebuilt anyway, and report back with my findings.

[drunkenbum]

Jan 15, 2016 17:54:05 GMT xs2man said:

I think I'll try another build with my Ni200. And try and get as much wraps as I can then. See if that helps. I want to like it. But just can't get on with the weakness of it. It's a shame, as I really like my subtanks, but the Ni coils are just weak (shouldn't have bought so many to be fair).  As for airflow, I'm all for fully open.  I never restrict my airflow on anything I use.

I'll try my Crius as it is needing rebuilt anyway, and report back with my findings.

What temp and watts are you running at?

[VapingBad]

The main causes of a weak vape/temp limit cuts in too soon are (in no particular order):
poor wicking
poor airflow
not enough contact area between your coil and wick
putting the atty on warm and locking the resistance too high
high resistance in your atty or mod causing the board to believe the cold coil resistance is higher than it is
poor atty or 510 connection
coils that only touch and short between loops when they get hot

I know a few are obvious.

Generally I would keep wicks and wire thinner than with Kanthal.

[Deleted]

Jan 15, 2016 18:08:51 GMT VapingBad said:

The main causes of a weak vape/temp limit cuts in too soon are (in no particular order):
poor wicking
poor airflow
not enough contact area between your coil and wick
putting the atty on warm and locking the resistance too high
high resistance in your atty or mod causing the board to believe the cold coil resistance is higher than it is
poor atty or 510 connection
coils that only touch and short between loops when they get hot

I know a few are obvious.

Generally I would keep wicks and wire thinner than with Kanthal.

So basically it depends which way the wind is blowing ?!?

[xs2man]

Jan 15, 2016 18:08:51 GMT VapingBad said:

The main causes of a weak vape/temp limit cuts in too soon are (in no particular order):
poor wicking
poor airflow
not enough contact area between your coil and wick
putting the atty on warm and locking the resistance too high
high resistance in your atty or mod causing the board to believe the cold coil resistance is higher than it is
poor atty or 510 connection
coils that only touch and short between loops when they get hot

I know a few are obvious.

Generally I would keep wicks and wire thinner than with Kanthal.

You would think that pre-built coils would have most of that sorted out.  But we'll see later tonight.  As far as mods go, to be fair, my TC mods are limited to a Kangxin DNA40 VapourFlask clone, a Snowwolf 200w, and a Hana One DNA40w.  And now the Wisemec RX200w.  To be fair, the SW was easily the worst performing TC mod out the lot.  And the DNA 40 Hana One is probably the best (well I haven't had enough time with the Hana One or the RX really.  The Kangxin was miles better than the SW though).

Airflow wise, it has mostly been subtanks I have used, and always fully open airflow.  I have done a couple builds on various RDA's, but they are generally fully open too.

Like I said, I'll rebuild my Crius tonight with some Ni200 and see what I get (It's Stealth Vapes 0.20mm Tempered, any recomendations of good builds with this?).