I don't believe it!

[SteveF]

not so long ago I purchased a Kanger Subtank nano clone, identical; it even came with authentication code.
I bought two more and put them away for a rainy day.




Today just before leaving to visit the hospital my SXK K5 decided it was going to be troublesome and spill its guts again so I opened a new nano.
The coils that come with it are shocking so I put a genuine 1.2ohm coil in it ....nil resistance, open circuit on the meter.
So I took the next one out of its box and tried with several coils, nilch, nada, zip.. again.

Hmm frustrating. Couldn't work it out, a pair of duff tanks?

[decoy]

they not duff
with out the coils in push the center pin on the base upwards towards the tank
it a floating pin that some times don't float

[phtumshk]

I was gonna say short pos pins as Id had 1 like.
Is that the top of the tank in the pics?

[decoy]

Aug 26, 2016 22:34:06 GMT phtumshk said:

I was gonna say short pos pins as Id had 1 like.
Is that the top of the tank in the pics?

good point it looks like the centre pins are missing on both

[SteveF]

exactly......there are no pins

[TJ]

Hence why now every time I buy anything authentic or clone I open it and make sure it has all it's parts and they work, have been caught out a couple of times with cheap replacement bases that don't actually work and more recently a cubis clone that clearly hadn't got the gubbins in the base of it so didn't work, luckily FT replaced that one but the spare bases for other tanks I bought and put away and it wasn't until I came to use them that I realised they were duff, thankfully it was only a couple of dollars wasted but I would have been pished if it were an expensive clone - LOL!

[SteveF]

hmm, learnt a lesson there didn't I fortunately only $9 each and the genuine bases fit.

[Lee]

With the clone bases, a little trick I do is put a blob of solder on the bottom of the 510 pin
Then file it flat
It adds a gnats dick extra length to them, which seems to sort out the no tank problems

[striker42]

I had the same experience with two clone sub tank mini's Lee, + pin was too short with the re buildable head only, they worked fine with a stock coil but they were a pile of kak. My solution, I have a box of parts from various mods that no longer work and have stripped down. The centre pin from an MVP2 (yep, the non spring loaded one) cut down to the appropriate length fits perfectly.

[Lee]

Every subtank clone I got from ft, had the same problem

While you have your file out for the pin

On the clone bases, take a gnats dick off the outside edge where the seal sits
I found that stopped a lot of leaks and pocket puddles

I use the gnats dick measurement, since it far more old school and better known

[SteveF]

a very important imperial measurement: the Gnats Cory

[djs]

Talking of gnat's measurements.
I loaned a subtank to a newbie.
Real Kanger base v2
Real Kanger tube (first mini version)
Genuine SSOCC 1.5ohm 10-25w

Did it work? Nope - super leak-a-Rama.

Kanger, eh? More confused than the average bear.

[SteveF]

Kanger components aren't always as compatible

[djs]

Aug 27, 2016 20:08:58 GMT SteveF said:

Kanger components aren't always as compatible

Yeh, tell me about it. Either that or I've lost my mojo.

[Lee]

Where were the leaks?

If its round the top edge on the base
Try doubling the seal in the base and see if that slows or stops the leaks