pancser
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Post by pancser on May 7, 2017 18:22:51 GMT
Hi all.
I planning to buy my first DNA75 mod and I watched lot of vids about it but...what I haven't seen can you actually switch off the device like the normal five or three clicks on "normal" regulated devices or it has just the standby mode? I planning to use it in power mode is it worth to buy it just for that?
Thanks for the reply Pancser
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on May 7, 2017 18:28:33 GMT
Yesish, it goes to sleep/stand by, locking it does not force that, but I can't see it being a problem. All electronic mods do stand by = off, like your TV etc or you wouldn't be able to turn them on again.
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dagl
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Post by dagl on May 7, 2017 21:41:11 GMT
5 clicks will put the device into a dormant (locked) state. ie it won't accidently fire in your pocket, then another 5 clicks to bring it back to life. Even if you're planning to just use in power mode there's lots of scope that you might want in the future
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pancser
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Post by pancser on May 8, 2017 4:51:51 GMT
Thanks for the reply VapingBad and daglMy top three affordable devices on my bucket list are HCigar VT75 nano, Lavabox M, Lost vape Skar
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tim
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Post by tim on May 8, 2017 21:26:19 GMT
I have an HCigar VT75 pancser, it's a really well built bit of kit. I'd recommend the nano (even though mine is the bigger one) for the quality. It's one of my favourite mods. And I have a few.... As for the temp control, it's DNA. I was pretty meh about tc before I tried a DNA. But they know their onions. It works. Faultlessly. I don't always use it in TC mode though, as I can't always remember which wire is om the atty, so, if it's above 0.1 ohm, and I don't know if it's Kanthal, or Stainless etc, on the VT75 it goes, in power mode. Buy one if you can afford it. And enjoy
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pancser
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Post by pancser on May 9, 2017 3:49:14 GMT
ATM I use around 1.3ohm kanthal build in my Siren and Hurricane1.3. I tried TC but I can't really understand how it works exactly so I came back to the kanthal. One more question ( at the moment ) I have seen a brass calibration tool for DNA devices do you have to use that or can you use your mod without calibration? I do like the look of the VT75 nano but its weak thin threaded battery cap I have decided against it Thanks for the reply Pancser
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bioxx
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Post by bioxx on May 9, 2017 4:33:28 GMT
Thanks for the reply VapingBad and dagl My top three affordable devices on my bucket list are HCigar VT75 nano, Lavabox M, Lost vape Skar I've got all of this list and they're all great. There's in MHO no alternative to a DNA chip. I have seen a brass calibration tool for DNA devices do you have to use that or can you use your mod without calibration? Thanks for the reply Pancser Either I missed something vital for the DNA or it isn't vital. I've never heard of a calibration tool. There are a gazillion ways to set up the DNA I wouldn't know where a calibration tool comes in.
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pancser
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Post by pancser on May 9, 2017 4:57:57 GMT
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bioxx
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Post by bioxx on May 9, 2017 5:19:48 GMT
Yeah well, it's probably me being too simple minded or ignorant or both. They're talking about internal resistance of 0,006, that's 6 thousands of an Ampere. I don't know if this is something I need to know about. Probably only useful with your own builds. I'm sure the much more knowledgeable posters here will come to your rescue and explain what this all is about.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on May 9, 2017 9:23:20 GMT
ATM I use around 1.3ohm kanthal build in my Siren and Hurricane1.3. I tried TC but I can't really understand how it works exactly so I came back to the kanthal. One more question ( at the moment ) I have seen a brass calibration tool for DNA devices do you have to use that or can you use your mod without calibration? I do like the look of the VT75 nano but its weak thin threaded battery cap I have decided against it Thanks for the reply Pancser The DNA 75 has a max output voltage of 6 V that will limit you max wattage with 1.3 ohm to 27.7 W, on the new 75 Colour one it is 9 V so max wattage would be 62 W. IIRC the DNA 60 is also 9 V.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on May 9, 2017 9:26:32 GMT
Yeah well, it's probably me being too simple minded or ignorant or both. They're talking about internal resistance of 0,006, that's 6 thousands of an Ampere. I don't know if this is something I need to know about. Probably only useful with your own builds. I'm sure the much more knowledgeable posters here will come to your rescue and explain what this all is about. It is only really important for low res and high power accuracy, particularly with temp protection, EG I use 0.05 ohm build for my ADV.
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bioxx
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Post by bioxx on May 9, 2017 10:17:00 GMT
^ Thank you for the explanation. I have temp protection off and use power. Works well with the SS316 coils that I use with it.
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pancser
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Post by pancser on May 9, 2017 10:52:56 GMT
Yeah well, it's probably me being too simple minded or ignorant or both. They're talking about internal resistance of 0,006, that's 6 thousands of an Ampere. I don't know if this is something I need to know about. Probably only useful with your own builds. I'm sure the much more knowledgeable posters here will come to your rescue and explain what this all is about. It is only really important for low res and high power accuracy, particularly with temp protection, EG I use 0.05 ohm build for my ADV. Thanks for explaining this. As it seems like it won't effect me because I only do MTL and I don't build crazy low coils Cheers Pancser
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