digiflavor siren 2 assistance req

[mecnun]

hi

Need some help on the siren v2 22m (uk version). I think during cleaning it I have lost a piece from it. When you unscrew the connection pin, I kind-off recall there is another plastic cylinder/tube thing inside which is also unscrewed and that allows one of the deck posts to come off. Its this piece I have lost and now I get frequent blobs of liquid leaking through the air holes.

One, I wanted to confirm that I am not dreaming up this piece inside the tube where the connection pin is screwed in and two, would anyone know if I can buy it as a spare or do I need to order another tank

thanks for your help.

rgrds

[Perpetua]

Personally, I know nothing about this tank mecnun . . . . but I'm wondering if any of this video's might have the initial information you're looking for.

www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=ZH0zXPcEiviTBa-ziZAP&q=siren+v2+22m+%28uk+version%29+youtube&btnK=Google+Search&oq=siren+v2+22m+%28uk+version%29+youtube&gs_l=psy-ab.3...168914.174069..176010...0.0..0.255.1710.2j5j4......0....1j2..gws-wiz.....0..33i160j33i21.mQnb4YaJadg

[mecnun]

Jan 7, 2019 16:30:24 GMT Perpetua said:

Personally, I know nothing about this tank mecnun . . . . but I'm wondering if any of this video's might have the initial information you're looking for.

www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=ZH0zXPcEiviTBa-ziZAP&q=siren+v2+22m+%28uk+version%29+youtube&btnK=Google+Search&oq=siren+v2+22m+%28uk+version%29+youtube&gs_l=psy-ab.3...168914.174069..176010...0.0..0.255.1710.2j5j4......0....1j2..gws-wiz.....0..33i160j33i21.mQnb4YaJadg

those are mainly reviews and discussions on issues with this particular tank, i dont think any of those videos (and i have seen a few) open it up from bottom. I just needed soem confirmation from another owner perhaps that there is another piece that comes out after you unscrew the connection pin. A picture would be great help if this is the case. The next question would be as to weather I can source this part from somewhere if indeed there is a piece that I think was there and I now have lost. Thanks for your helps btw.

[DaveJ]

mecnun

I do not have the TPD 22 mm 2 ml Siren. But I do have the 4 ml 24 mm V2 Siren. I thought/hoped the innards would be close enough the same ... So I took one of mine apart and took some pics - hopefully this might help you.

Firstly all the original full sized pics are here:
google drive full sized pics

Second the somewhat reduced size/resolution pics - hopefully still clear enuff for you:

The atty

Unscrewed the bottom "510 pin"

And that's ALL that "fell" out of the base. Nothing else easily comes out of it. I did poke and prod from all angles with small screwdrivers but there's nothing else to fall away easily. I've gone no further at this point, but I think any further disassembly involves separating heavily machine press fitted base parts - and that is something I wasn't game to try in a working atty at this stage.


If yours disassembled looks similar to mine (allowing for your TPD vs my non-TPD variations) THEN, maybe, your periodic leaks from the airholes around the base *might* be a wicking issue. On occasion I've had similar happen with mine. In every case it's because the wicks have touched the top of the "deck" (the flat top bit with the three air holes immediately under the coil). If that happens, then juice from the coil/wick is given a direct path down thro the center air hole tube into the base. To avoid it, when installing the wick, AFTER fluffing, straightening fibers and cutting to length, I fold the wicks down and tuck 'em into the base "cutouts" and use a few dabs of juice to keep 'em in place. I then use a very small pointer/screwdriver and feed the point in under the wick between the wick and deck top - I lift/ensure the wick is up free from touching that air deck all along it's top and also down its sides. I then fully prime with juice, test fire (if wanted), and double check the wick is still free of that air feed deck, then fill and reassemble the tank. It's that lifting of the wick clear of the air feed deck that solves the periodic leaks for me.

Hope this helps... good luck.

[DaveJ]

Edit to add mecnun

On review of your quote:

I kind-off recall there is another plastic cylinder/tube thing inside which is also unscrewed and that allows one of the deck posts to come off.

Umm, yes. There has to be some sort of NON-conductive sleeve between the gold 510 center pin that unscrews and the outside threaded body that screws into your mod. That sleeve separates the positive and negative electrical conductors of the atties 510 assembly. IF you've removed that, then you are very likely to have problems other than leaking juice - specifically atty shorting. Not good on a regulated mod but potentially dangerous on a mech.

I had another closer lookie at mine - yep, there is something in there, but I could not find an EASY way to remove it from the atty base. Certainly it doesn't fall out when the gold 510 connector pin is unscrewed ... and the top coil mounting post will come away without removal of that insulating shroud.

In this pic:

You can see the ring of that insulating sleeve on the inside of the 510 (top part of the pic). Does yours have this currently?

Of course - all my ramblings are moot iffn the insides your your TPD atty are different to mine ...

[mecnun]

DaveJ - Thank you, really appreciate the help and the pictures. I can see a plastic coating inside the tube of mine as well and I am not getting any shorting whatsoever. It isn't as pronounced and clear as yours though. It is much thinner. I can see that yours has a plastic inner-tube even with the pin screwed in (2nd pic) whereas on mine I cannot see it at all if the pin is screwed in however it is there (its not bare metal).

edit: I can see it in good light... slightly that there is an inner sleeve.

Big blobs of liquid come through fairly regularly now and I can appreciate , bad coiling, bad wicking results in leaking however from my experience not the amount I am getting and with this regularity. I am losing at-least a quarter of tank if not more through leaks and I have changed coils and wicked it several times. Its why I got suspicious in the first place and opened it all up and thought that I remembered there was another piece inside which was turntable and removable using a flat-head screw driver. I am convinced that way because when I cleaned it before removal of the connection pin wouldn't budge the removable coil-post and you had to remove *something else before it would come off. Now as soon as I remove the pin it is loose and falls off.

I could be totally wrong of-course or perhaps our atty is slightly different , Think I am just going to have to order another. Again, thanks for your help!

[joeten]

mecnun there are some here www.sr-vapes.co.uk/product/siren2/ price seems good.

[DaveJ]

S'OK mecnun - A leaky atty is most annoying.

Jan 8, 2019 14:24:26 GMT mecnun said:

...I can see a plastic coating inside the tube of mine as well and I am not getting any shorting whatsoever.

Ah! Good. That's an important electrical safety thing. I don't believe that plastic coating/sleeve is for juice cpntrol, rather I believe its only purpose is to provide electrical insulation between the center and outsides of the 510 assembly.

Jan 8, 2019 14:24:26 GMT mecnun said:

... and opened it all up and thought that I remembered there was another piece inside which was turntable and removable using a flat-head screw driver. I am convinced that way because when I cleaned it before removal of the connection pin wouldn't budge the removable coil-post and you had to remove *something else before it would come off

Oh. Hang on ... **checking, checking**. Yep, got it. That removable center pin is a double assembly. Two parts that screw together to make the whole pin. See following pics:
That prolly explains your memory of the "second bit" that also needed removal after unscrewing the bottom visible bit of the 510 pin. I've found sometimes only the first part comes out, often times both come out together. You need both bits removed before the top "coil mount assembly" can be removed from the top of the deck.

Your description of the leak is consistent with something being wrong and not just some "weeping" or "condensation". I'd love to have that thing and tear it down side by side with a known working one (I have several) to see what's up. But since we cannot do that, I'm just going to throw a few general ideas at you with the hope that something makes sense to you and maybe fires an idea that you can test/check.

* Firstly liquid/juice has no business being down that center air hole or around the base pin, nor within the solid part of the lower deck - the bit that has the intake air holes and the adjustable airflow controller. That's why I think the plastic insulating ring around that center removable 510 pin ought not have any bearing on juice leaks. The juice ought be contained above the bottom edge of the glass tank - and above that "top deck", the bit with the 3 air holes immediately under the coil. IF there is juice where it ought not be, then I think something is wrong in the areas that hold the juice. A seal, an air leak or wick conducting juice badly or something along those lines.

* I've mentioned wicking before - you've re-done it several times so that ought not be the problem. But just the same, a wick touching the top deck (with the 3 air holes) WILL conduct juice down where it ought not go and will give you the leaks you describe. It's happened to me ... several times.

* A bad o-ring? I recall first breaking my new ones down and noticing the original translucent o-rings tending to "stick" to the glass tube. I've had some tear when I've removed them for that initial clean. Perhaps one of the two main o-rings on yours is damaged?

* A badly seated o-ring. The two o-rings each end of the main glass body tube are not round in cross section, but rather "L" shaped. The upright of the "L" goes up the inside of the glass tube. I do remember when doing my initial setup (tear down and properly clean everything) I found the original translucent o-rings a bit of a bugger to seat right, and it was possible to get the orientation incorrect. I found the replacement o-rings in the original kit (blue and red) seemed a better fit, better material and fought me less when installing them.

* It's always possible something is trapped where it shouldn't be - a bit of dirt under an o-ring/seal maybe?

* To much or too little wick - meaning the "right" seal isn't made in the cutouts at the base of the deck. That said, it seems to me that this atty is pretty flexible with what it will accept without issues.

* Very, very thin juice? Just wild guessing here. I use high VG. Maybe these things don't seal quite as well with very runny juice? Perhaps the wick needs to be thicker/seal tighter in those deck cutouts with thin juice?  Like I said, just guessing with this one.

* I suppose it's possible there is a manufacturing fault in one part somewhere. I've currently 6 or so in daily rotation. All perfect. That's not to say you can't be unlucky though.

As you can see, wicking aside, I'm very much leaning toward a seal or air leak somewhere in the upper tank section that holds the juice.

AND I would expect you prolly have already thought of most of these things. I'm just hoping that throwing all these ideas out there might prompt an idea that helps.


GOOD LUCK with it. *fingers crossed* for you

[mecnun]

Jan 8, 2019 15:13:40 GMT joeten said:

mecnun there are some here www.sr-vapes.co.uk/product/siren2/ price seems good.

@joetan - thank you for recommending SR-vapes.. orderd last evening and arrived today!!

[mecnun]

Jan 9, 2019 3:45:54 GMT DaveJ said:

That prolly explains your memory of the "second bit" that also needed removal after unscrewing the bottom visible bit of the 510 pin. I've found sometimes only the first part comes out, often times both come out together. You need both bits removed before the top "coil mount assembly" can be removed from the top of the deck.

Your description of the leak is consistent with something being wrong and not just some "weeping" or "condensation". I'd love to have that thing and tear it down side by side with a known working one (I have several) to see what's up. But since we cannot do that, I'm just going to throw a few general ideas at you with the hope that something makes sense to you and maybe fires an idea that you can test/check.

* Firstly liquid/juice has no business being down that center air hole or around the base pin, nor within the solid part of the lower deck - the bit that has the intake air holes and the adjustable airflow controller. That's why I think the plastic insulating ring around that center removable 510 pin ought not have any bearing on juice leaks. The juice ought be contained above the bottom edge of the glass tank - and above that "top deck", the bit with the 3 air holes immediately under the coil. IF there is juice where it ought not be, then I think something is wrong in the areas that hold the juice. A seal, an air leak or wick conducting juice badly or something along those lines.

* I've mentioned wicking before - you've re-done it several times so that ought not be the problem. But just the same, a wick touching the top deck (with the 3 air holes) WILL conduct juice down where it ought not go and will give you the leaks you describe. It's happened to me ... several times.

* A bad o-ring? I recall first breaking my new ones down and noticing the original translucent o-rings tending to "stick" to the glass tube. I've had some tear when I've removed them for that initial clean. Perhaps one of the two main o-rings on yours is damaged?

* A badly seated o-ring. The two o-rings each end of the main glass body tube are not round in cross section, but rather "L" shaped. The upright of the "L" goes up the inside of the glass tube. I do remember when doing my initial setup (tear down and properly clean everything) I found the original translucent o-rings a bit of a bugger to seat right, and it was possible to get the orientation incorrect. I found the replacement o-rings in the original kit (blue and red) seemed a better fit, better material and fought me less when installing them.

* It's always possible something is trapped where it shouldn't be - a bit of dirt under an o-ring/seal maybe?

* To much or too little wick - meaning the "right" seal isn't made in the cutouts at the base of the deck. That said, it seems to me that this atty is pretty flexible with what it will accept without issues.

* Very, very thin juice? Just wild guessing here. I use high VG. Maybe these things don't seal quite as well with very runny juice? Perhaps the wick needs to be thicker/seal tighter in those deck cutouts with thin juice?  Like I said, just guessing with this one.

* I suppose it's possible there is a manufacturing fault in one part somewhere. I've currently 6 or so in daily rotation. All perfect. That's not to say you can't be unlucky though.

As you can see, wicking aside, I'm very much leaning toward a seal or air leak somewhere in the upper tank section that holds the juice.

AND I would expect you prolly have already thought of most of these things. I'm just hoping that throwing all these ideas out there might prompt an idea that helps.


GOOD LUCK with it. *fingers crossed* for you

DaveJ-

Cheers again for going to the trouble. Yes that was exactly it, I knew I wasnt going mad however i feel like a complete muppet now.. i had over tightened it and it had kind of become an all one piece...

My initial thoughts were that as a piece is missing it has to do with air pressure in some way shape or form but that cant be it now..

Agreed- liquid has no place being in the center part and the bottom plastic sleeve shouldn't have a bearing on liquid   -  I have noticed that the bottom O-ring is a little loose/misshapen- but i haven't replaced it yet because I dont think that has any bearing on liquid leaking from the air holes.. its more of a seal between glass tube and metal base at bottom... Or could it?

Will recheck the wicking - i have been a long standing victim in that regard..and thought I had finally kind of gotten it.. I make a point of lifting the wick away from deck every time I wick from both sides.

I received both tanks with one translucent O ring installed at the top.. The bottom O ring i Had to put in myself. which is interesting regarding the L-shape you mention because I recently replaced the top one because it had gone *will check orientation. Should there be a second translucent O ring?

I use 50/50 or 70/30 so dont think its liquid.

one of the theories I am playing around with again relates to the bottom 2 pins.. I am wondering because I had over tightened it so that it had become one piece, could it be that the part that is inside wasn't actually screwing into the post as well as it could have done if I screwed them in individually thus creating a a tiny weeny gap on the main deck..

One of the first things I did as I got the new tank today is take out the bottom pin assembly and take pictures to post on here but you beat me to it  . And then looking at both together I was thinking why is my old pin so long..... Anyway I used the pin assembly from the new tank and put it in my old tank..then the light bulb came on..and I separated the pin assembly. So i am running with the new pins in my old tank at the moment and there hasn't been a leak yet.. Once the juice is finished I will go back to old pins and see if it leaks..

Want to thank you again for taking the time to post pictures and offer advice. All of it is appreciated.

rgrds

 

[joeten]

mecnun glad it helped, and that was quick.

[DaveJ]

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

I have noticed that the bottom O-ring is a little loose/misshapen- but i haven't replaced it yet because I dont think that has any bearing on liquid leaking from the air holes.. its more of a seal between glass tube and metal base at bottom... Or could it?

Maybe, maybe not. BUT since you have something that is not right affecting liquid flow and sealing, I'd be changing it/putting it right just to be sure.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

Will recheck the wicking - i have been a long standing victim in that regard..and thought I had finally kind of gotten it.. I make a point of lifting the wick away from deck every time I wick from both sides.

I know you've said you've gone over the wicking several times, but I do still feel this is the most likely cause of the periodic leak from inside the air inlet holes/airflow control ring. I do know I've occasionally had similar leaks happen and in each case it was the wicking.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

I received both tanks with one translucent O ring installed at the top.. The bottom O ring i Had to put in myself. which is interesting

There needs to be two o-rings: one at the top and the second at the bottom of the glass tank body. It will not work right with either of them missing, although I'd expect to see leaks from outside the tank rather than internally down thro the air inlet feed tube. But then again, I s'pose, anything is possible when liquid seals are not working properly.

My Sirens were all delivered with both o-rings properly installed. Mine had the translucent o-rings installed by the factory. I found they were very sticky to both the glass tube body and also to the base's groove the o-ring inserts into. I found I hurt some of my o-rings when first removing them for that initial breakdown and cleaning.

Could it be that, rather than missing o-ring at the bottom, maybe a translucent one was installed and remained stuck in the base groove? Just guessing is all...

Certainly TWO o-rings are required - and in the first pic in my first post of this thread way above ^^^ you can see the two RED o-rings and where they are located. Note - I have swapped out the original translucent o-rings for those red ones.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

regarding the L-shape you mention because I recently replaced the top one because it had gone *will check orientation. Should there be a second translucent O ring?

Yes. Absolutely yes. One top and the other bottom of the glass tube body.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

one of the theories I am playing around with again relates to the bottom 2 pins.. I am wondering because I had over tightened it so that it had become one piece, could it be that the part that is inside wasn't actually screwing into the post as well as it could have done if I screwed them in individually thus creating a a tiny weeny gap on the main deck..

I don't think this is the cause of your leaking, although, again, anything is possible.

So long as the inside part of the 510 pin is screwed in "just snug" - enough to provide a secure connection that won't work loose and firm enough to provide a sound electrical connection, then it ought provide enough downforce to properly secure the top "coil holding post" to the deck. Not forgetting the plastic gasket/base/molding that goes under the coil holding post - which ought provide the liquid seal needed.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

So i am running with the new pins in my old tank at the moment and there hasn't been a leak yet.. Once the juice is finished I will go back to old pins and see if it leaks.

Well, if it works ...   But I do not understand why it would make any difference. But, as I said, if it works it's good!

Be interesting to see you run up your new second tank and see how you go with regards to leaking.

Jan 9, 2019 14:59:26 GMT mecnun said:

Want to thank you again for taking the time to post pictures and offer advice. All of it is appreciated.

You are most welcome. I hope you get it sorted quickly, leaky tanks are the pits.

[mecnun]

You are right mate, there is a translucent ring stuck inside the new tank, i hadn't noticed it before. On my original tank I must have ripped it or something while opening and setting it up I am guessing. The tank still leaks, I had some leaks last night so going to focus on the coil and wicking. Think you maybe right that wicking is most likely the issue now. Haven't setup the new tank yet.. Will do soon.

[DaveJ]

*Fingers Crossed*