kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 29, 2013 22:35:27 GMT
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 28, 2013 14:26:24 GMT
Yeah, I'd assume it's 60/40. It's more common for nic base to be PG and also much more common for flavour concentrates to be in a PG base. Of course, they could be using VG nic base and flavourings in this case, but going with the odds, I'd bet on PG.
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 12:58:23 GMT
Well, that's something - Bramley's scary enough as it is already.
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kurotoshiro
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EJMU
Jul 27, 2013 11:27:23 GMT
Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 11:27:23 GMT
Yeah, the link appears to be dead. I have no idea if the file is available elsewhere. Just tried googling for it, but can't find anything I'm afraid.
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kurotoshiro
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EJMU
Jul 27, 2013 11:07:49 GMT
Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 11:07:49 GMT
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 10:59:43 GMT
Just read the local paper and a bloke from my street was part of a gang of four who carried out armed robberies on jewellers,do you know your neighbours? Whereabouts in Leeds are you? Just wondering how close this was to me (in Bramley).
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 10:47:20 GMT
No, that's a good question. I put those figures for 5ml PG and 5ml VG straight in because we already had the answer given by fiddles above. But the question is: What do you put in when you don't already know what the answer is?
Basically, it's trial and error. Here's an example. (It might help if you open up ejmu and work through this example with me.)
Suppose we've got 20ml of liquid that is far too strong at 32mg. Let's say we want to reduce it to 12mg. Also: the liquid is 50/50 PG and VG, and we'd like to keep this ratio - so we'll need to add equal amounts of PG and VG.
The first thing we do is enter the details for the liquid we've got in row 1 (32mg, 20ml, 50PG, 50VG). Then we basically start the trial and error process by making an initial guess at how much VG and PG to add. I'm going to guess 10ml of each. So on row 2 I add the details for the PG: (0mg, 10ml, 100PG, 0VG). And on row 2 I add the details for the VG (0mg, 10ml, 0PG, 100VG).
Now we can click on calculate and see how close we are. The Results shows a final liquid that is 16mg, 40ml, 50/50. That's close, but still too strong. We wanted 12mg. So let's increase the amount of PG and VG we've got on rows 2 and 3. We'll make it 15ml of each. Now we click on calculate again. It's now showing a final mix at 12.8mg, 50ml, 50/50. Almost right, but just a touch too strong. So we'll increase the amount of PG and VG to 16ml each. Clicking on calculate again shows a final mix at 12.31mg, 52ml, 50/50. That's close enough. (If we go up to 17ml of PG and VG, the result will be a final mix at 11.85mg. Too weak. Of course, we could start entering PG and VG amounts using decimal points, to try and get a final mix at precisely 12mg, but it depends how accurate you want to be.)
Hopefully this shows you how people use the nic combine feature of emju. It's just a case of taking a guess and then tweaking the numbers to hone in on the desired result.
If you have any other questions, just let me know.
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 27, 2013 9:16:48 GMT
Thank you Perps, I have looked at that before but to be perfectly honest I haven't got a clue what it means. I don't understand when its asking for nic base 1 and nic base 2, mls etc. I need a personal run through to get it into my head. See image below. This is how you'd enter your example. Ignore the fact that it says "Nicotine Base 1", "Nicotine Base 2", etc. Just enter into each of these rows the details of the separate liquids you're combining. And when you click "Calculate", it shows the details of the combined juice next to "Results".
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 25, 2013 15:43:17 GMT
That's a good find kurotoshiro. Can you please let me know if they are indeed 4oz? Yep, I've no idea when it will get here, but I'll post again in this thread when it arrives. Well, I said I'd post an update, so here goes: it never arrived, and I've just received a refund. So I can't comment on the product after all. But I can say that the vendor responded very quickly when I asked him to resolve the case (I emailed him earlier today --- I would have acted sooner, but I've no idea how much time to allow for international mail like this).
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 22, 2013 15:22:11 GMT
you could try getting a Diver and a reasonable DCT tank Ah, they look interesting. Have you tried one of these? What do they vape like? (I'm wondering whether a Clockworks RTA might do the job, as I'm already familiar with the RDA, so rebuilding one of these shouldn't be a problem for me - however, I'm not sure what they are like in terms of refilling / leakage / not being kept upright.) I could never get the RTA to wick very well for me Kuro . . . but that could be down to my coil building skills and using VG heavy eliquid. How do you get on with an RDA? Is it just the RTA you struggle with, or both?
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 22, 2013 11:29:46 GMT
Preamble:
My gf is interested in getting a rebuildable atomiser. (She's been vaping since January, and has mainly been using carto tanks.) I'm a bit unsure what to recommend to her. (The problem is, I've been using the same RDA for the last 10 months, and because I'm generally satisfied with it, I haven't been keeping in touch with what's currently available in the world of rebuildables --- apart from trying a Dream a while ago, which I didn't get on with at all --- also, since I'm exclusively a fan of drippers, I have no idea what to recommend in terms of tank-based rebuildables).
So ....
Actual question:
Can anyone recommend an atomiser that fits the following descriptions:
- reasonably cheap (under £50, say --- but the cheaper the better, really, as long as it's decent quality);
- easily rebuildable (note: it will probably be me rather than my gf that ends up doing the actual rebuilding - in which case, it should ideally be no more difficult to rebuild than a Clockworks RDA, as that's about the most I can manage - and even with that, I sometimes to struggle to get it right - fiddling around with tiny bits of wick and wire is not my forte);
- uses silica (not mesh only);
- nice big capacity tank so it doesn't need constant refilling;
- easy to refill while out and about;
- no issues with leakage if used while out and about (and if not kept upright at all times).
(I'm wondering whether a Clockworks RTA might do the job, as I'm already familiar with the RDA, so rebuilding one of these shouldn't be a problem for me - however, I'm not sure what they are like in terms of refilling / leakage / not being kept upright.)
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 15, 2013 22:41:10 GMT
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 13, 2013 16:50:32 GMT
Be careful about air flow or you could make things worse ... as a tech I use to get loads of overheating pc's in to the shop the most common mistake was to put a fan directly over the CPU sucking out the hot air, but this starves the CPU fan that is trying to pull air down through the heat sync, so think about air flow through the case I wasn't sure about this, so I've put it on the side of the case, drawing air in, roughly aimed at the GPU. Does that sound OK?
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 13, 2013 15:57:11 GMT
Thanks all, for your help.
Yes, it is an arctic PWM fan, which is why I figured that connecting direct to the m-board was best.
I've now connected it, along with the main CPU cooler, to the 4-pin PWM slot on the m-board. It's running, but I'm just not sure whether I need to do anything extra in BIOS to make it run efficiently, or whether the system will simply recognise it?
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kurotoshiro
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Post by kurotoshiro on Jul 13, 2013 15:16:04 GMT
You might be able to simply plug the fan in to the MB. See photo below. I That slot is already used by a fan taking air in at the front of the PC.
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