testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 16:14:31 GMT
In the end we're just trying not to make a pipe bomb so the maximum input of the dna20 board is 7amps, if you are going to use that amount of current I'm wondering if your atty will melt or not
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 16:06:39 GMT
testdruif sorry to be a pain but that went right over my head In very easy terms, i have that battery holder on order and on it's way to me, if you was going to make this mod how would you go about doing it. In very easy terms of wording it as my brain is now completely frazzled in your case (with the fuses you have and batteries in parallel) taking into account the amps required according to the dna20 datasheet: If you are going to use those fuses make sure you put them both in parallel (so you get to a 6amps limit). I recon the 1 amps you're going to lose won't matter much unless you are going to work it and work it hard If you want the added security of a fuse, put that fuse (those 2 you have and that are in parallel) at the end of your positive wires (as raid mentioned).
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:52:11 GMT
so to quote myself Either get 1 fuse rated for 7 amps (maximum amps the board can handle) or lose the 1 amps that you may never ever every need with your current setup (2 fuses in parallel)
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:43:57 GMT
www.zbattery.com/Connecting-Batteries-in-Series-or-Parallel2 batteries in series = higher voltage 2 batteries in parallel = more mah, same voltage So putting 2 16v, 3amp fuses in parallel (Fuses in parallel summate if wired correctly) So you'll have a 6 amp fuse. so you are limited to an inputof 6amp and then your fuses blow. The evolv datasheet says: Battery: A single cell rechargeable lithium chemistry battery is recommended. Either a lithium ion or a lithium polymer type can be used. Any battery used should be rated for a MINIMUM of 7 amps continuous discharge current. High C rated lithium polymer or IMR cylindrical cells are strongly preferred. So if you would take full advantage of the board you're fuses will blow anyway? Max input for the dna20 mod is 7amps, max output 6amps
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:33:26 GMT
It looks like the second picture isn't a complete circuit. only wires on the left connector... The first picture I wouldn't bother with 2 fuses, as the description says "Solder the legs of the fuses together in parallel.".... why if you have a short then both fuses will blow out so is it to have one fuse with a higher resistance? if so, why not just use 1 fuse with a higher resistance
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:16:40 GMT
My actual point about the fuses is that in the configuration shown they are both redundant. If a fuse was used then it should be on the single leg of the 'Y'. indeedy
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:12:01 GMT
Thanks testdruif i will drop the fuses, less work for me Just make sure to properly solder and then isolate your wires and connections (tape, shrinkwrap, glue,...) I don't want an angry romelee at my doorstep when the thing blew up in your hand because a connection got loose Final advice would be to isolate everything from the body (as it's aluminium). put glue, a piece of tape, anything between your components and the body unless it's a part made out of plastic and not used in any way for power running through it
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 15:04:31 GMT
From the datasheet:
Error Messages The DNA 20 will indicate a variety of error states. Check Atomizer: The DNA does not detect an atomizer, or the atomizer has shorted out. Shorted: The atomizer or wiring are short circuited. Check Battery: The battery is below 3.1 volts. It probably needs to be charged. Weak Battery: The battery sags excessively when firing. This typically means the user is not using a high rate battery, or the battery is old and degraded. It can also mean the battery is not making good contact. Too Hot: The DNA 20D has onboard temperature sensing. It will shut down and display this message if the internal board temperature becomes excessive. Too low power setting: The DNA 20D puts out a minimum of 4 volts. With low power settings (7 to 8 watts) and low resistance atomizers (below 2 ohms) the DNA will sometimes be unable to provide a low enough power output to be power regulating. If this is the case, the Ohms display will be flashing. The device will still operate.
The only time (in my opinion) a fuse would be useful is when the wire it's attached to gets lose and touches something else to complete the circuit. It won't protect you against a battery blowing up.
Sooo, if you make sure your wires are properly soldered and you isolate all your wires, I don't see a reason to add a fuse other than extra added safety upon added safety.
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 14:39:54 GMT
I guess milo used fuses because it are unprotected batteries. I've put a protected 18650 3400mah in mine and did away with the fuses
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 13:54:28 GMT
err, why fuses? I'm sure the DNA got short cut protection
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 13:37:02 GMT
I see one old fart with a striped bathing suit in the picture. with a lot of white hair and a beard/mustash. Is that you Super-Shiny?
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 13:33:59 GMT
hmpf, find Super-Shinywhere is he in his striped bathing suit!
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 13:18:21 GMT
The wires from the battery to the board and from the usb charger to the board and from the board to the 510 connector should be thicker wire. Those wires will in essense guide the current. The wires for the buttons can be far less thick because they won't be used for conducting the power from the battery to the connector. So stick with the recommended size just to be safe
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 11:45:46 GMT
Looks good but i don't see any wires coming from it so i presume i have to fit my own, wanted something good to go. Yeah, it has connector posts to solder your wire to. But in the end won't you be soldering the other part of the wires anyway so it shouldn't be to hard to solder an extra pair
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testdruif
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Post by testdruif on Jan 6, 2014 10:23:04 GMT
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