scs
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Post by scs on Apr 22, 2013 16:08:19 GMT
Hi everyone, Trying to find a decent stealth setup for work. I work outside and get my hands dirty occassionaly so needs to be tough and not overly expensive in case it gets dropped. Stealthy because if I'm working hard then it's obviously natural I will want to go to the pub for a jar afterwards, and the fact I could do with it going in my pocket when not in use I have a Vamo, but even in 18350 mode, it's just too big. I tried using a few cheap ego batteries with a vision nano but that means taking 4 ego's with me, and the last time I did this I broke 2 nano's. One bent in my pocket, the other was dropped from 5ft and broke. Can anybody recommend a setup?
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 22, 2013 15:30:19 GMT
People will be expecting cherry pie to be served shortly. Cruel, just cruel!!
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 22, 2013 15:27:21 GMT
I'm sure you sniped it away from me jeffc icon_shoppingm Maplin had one on Ebay for 29.99 but now they have increased it to 44.99, the darn varmits.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 22, 2013 8:31:22 GMT
In need of a second hand wire welder to join resistant/non-resistant wire.
Or new if it's cheaper than the juice-kitchen. Running out of pennies after my last shopping spree and can't recoil my new rebuildable with twisting lol.
Cheers.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 21, 2013 15:18:05 GMT
Well I'm a lot more advanced with my knowledge of the Ithaka now. I have switched to basic feeding (with holes aligned to one wick) and closed juice control for the most part. Seems to be working better and far less dry hits. As soon as I find it's getting dry, just a quick turn of the juice control for a few hits does the trick. I'm still getting a leak through the centre post so I will align the holes in the bottom of the ceramic on my next rebuild so as to use the secondary tank on the Ithaka. As far I can tell, if I do this, it's "impossible" for it to leak. I will soon find out. Whilst I wasn't sure what the heck I was doing these last few days, I have picked up a few tips: FLOODING Trim the wicks so they don't go past the o-ring Switch to basic feeding. Either half wick, one wick or both wicks. Open up the secondary tank (align the holes at the bottom of the ceramic). When filling, never screw both tops on together. They should be screwed on seperately. When filling, make sure juice control is completely shut off. GURGLING Shake the Ithaka forward (like you were whipping something with it) holding the battery/mod end. Put a tissue over the mouth piece and you will see the excess juice. Suck hard 5 or 6 times on the mouth piece without pressing the button. Blow hard 5 or 6 times in to the mouth piece without pressing the button. HEAT CONTROL You can extend the mouth piece off the ceramic thread to make further distance from coil to mouth. Hope this helps anyone who hasn't spent all weekend looking at video's and reading countless Ithika threads
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 20, 2013 13:02:53 GMT
Hi blakey, Since I realised I could quite easily flood the chamber I have gone with not opening the juice feed at all. I also wanted to rule that out of the leak equation so the last 2 small refills have been carried out with it completely shut. Still leaking I'm afraid Do you have enough wick in the channels? 3mm thickness for each channel is required. Also the basic feeding from the section that the rebuildable part goes into, are the holes in the closed position? if not then there's nothing to stop the juice getting to the wicks so if you start to get flooding you wont be able to stop it. Almost certainly the juice is flooding through the ceramic center tube because the wick at the coil is being overwhelmed. I'm using the wick that came with the Ithaka, looks thicker than my 2mm stuff. It's trimmed directly to the bottom of the ceramic as per instructions (as that can cause it to leak too). Not exactly sure what you mean by the holes but I think you mean the bit with two holes in that you screw on to the top of the ceramic. Imea suggets these are are aligned away from the wick channels, and mine are bang centre of the thread. Is that closed position or am I in the wrong area lol.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 20, 2013 11:59:51 GMT
It's more likely that the juice is leaking via the ceramic and center tube mate, Try setting it up with basic feeding closed off and when you first fill leave the juice control closed for a few puffs and let the pressure inside the tank equalise. Hi blakey, Since I realised I could quite easily flood the chamber I have gone with not opening the juice feed at all. I also wanted to rule that out of the leak equation so the last 2 small refills have been carried out with it completely shut. Still leaking I'm afraid
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 20, 2013 7:57:29 GMT
Well after I flooded the chamber and got juice in the battery mod, I decided to strip the Ithaka and give it a right good clean because I was still getting a little juice coming from the centre pin. I also wanted to reduce the darn awful metallic taste, so now it's clean clean.
Re-assembled and put a little juice in. Checked the battery connection and would you believe it.....more juice in there. Cleaned the connections last night and used it again. 15 minutes later....juice in the connection ???
And again this morning. I got a leak!
I have screwed the ceramic to the base tight, there is no way (without pliers) that the rubber o-ring will seal tighter. Anybody have any ideas as I'm scratching my head as to how that o-ring is leaking?
I have one wrap of wire around that post, as per Imeo's video. How many times has everyone else wrapped around that post and has it caused any leaks?
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 19, 2013 13:44:07 GMT
Can we not order from you direct now Mev? Price is approaching £37 quid from the retail site
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 19, 2013 12:39:23 GMT
I had a similar discusion with a friend in a public house. His final point was "would you vape in the car, windows up, with my twin babies in the back". I couldn't answer that.
Since that day, I haven't found anything to suggest second hand vapour is safe. I also haven't found anything suggesting it isn't safe.
So, unless someone can point me to some medical research on this matter, I'm afraid my mate won that argument. I'm now looking at buying a far more discreet PV than my Provari for public places to reduce the attention.
Sad but true.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 19, 2013 8:42:15 GMT
I have purchased a few of these ecigs/kits above from FastTech. Quick shipping, excellent customer service and very good products for the price. Ordered over £100 of goods now and only found a faulty CE4. Next order is on it's way as I sold out of everything. I seem to be the official supplier to friends/family courtesy of FastTech, and the venture is half way to paying off my Ithaka
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 19, 2013 6:56:23 GMT
Once you recoil the Ithaka and screw the first section on the ceramic, make sure you don't screw it flush or past the rubber o-ring. I screwed to more or less flush as per Imeo's video and I lost 2ml of juice straight in to the Provari. After cleaning it I left 2 or 3mm gap before the o-ring and it sealed nicely. Cheers. Was it that you weren't then screwing the rebuildable part (containing the ceramic) down into the first section (the basic feed control) as this would cause a leak. From 'Ithaka the movie' as I now call it the sequence should be: 1) screw the basic feed down to the o-ring 2) screw the basic feed into the base 3) screw the rebuildbale part further into the basic feed until you can't screw it further and the basic feed hole is either over the wick / blocking the wick as you prefer. Not sure what I did wrong the first time thinwhiteduck. I just rebuilt it and it seems you are right, if you follow the instruction it should tighten up regardles. Will edit that post as it doesn't make sense now. Cheers.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 18, 2013 14:50:47 GMT
I'm at work mate so I can't be of much use, no chance of a pic tutorial from me till next week The thinner strand of wire is the resistance wire. The wires either side are the no-resistance wires. The basic feeding I leave and will forever leave closed off. The air control ring at the bottom adjusts the draw so its very useful. I never use the ready wires as I prefer to make my own to my spec but if memory serves they come in at 1.7ish ohms so I would set the provari to 3.8v as a starting point. Thanks for the info blakey. That makes sense. I had my juice feeder visually set to half and it was great. I just closed it off and it seems better somehow (although I can't explain how/why). I assumed more juice the better, but not too much, thus the half setting I was using.
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 18, 2013 14:42:36 GMT
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scs
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Post by scs on Apr 18, 2013 12:19:25 GMT
A few questions: What voltage would you say the Provari should be set to for the 4 wrap coil with the supplied wick/wire (as per Imeo's video on youtube)? Also, the supplied wire had a smaller gauge welded in the middle. Is this non-resistance and the best method of making the next coil? How do you guys use the juice limiter? Shouldn't it always be fully open for best results? How do you guys use the air limiter at the base? Are these functions just preference? What do you normally set yours to? Lastly, how the heck do you fit 4 wicks in to such a small space (as per the above method recommended by blakey)? Any pics? That should start the Q&A for the thread quite nicely, for now
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