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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:46:19 GMT
No, sadly, it takes one look at it and refuses to charge.
I have to use the SDK charger which means about
5 hours to charge.
It's a 550mAh battery so it lasts a while though.
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:44:21 GMT
Download: ClickyInstall.. Do whatever you want with your partitions...  Tick VG - or Partition Magic will do it. Though with only one physical disc, there isn't much benefit to having more than two partitions - one for the OS one for your data. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:35:54 GMT
And finally in Frankentank mode.  Pure Vaping Bliss  |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:34:54 GMT
Here it is in cartomiser mode.  Lovely with a LR Boge and some VG heavy tobacco flavoured juice. The mouthpiece really makes the difference to the vaping experience. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:32:50 GMT
So all done tested and tapped together gently with a mallet. Removing the tape, I fully expected it to crumble into dust, but it didn't. Here it is in Stardust mode:  On its own stand - an old ashtray I made (even older than the pipe). It would be a lot better if I could find a way to rig the pipe mouthpiece to the stardust (working on that one). Also, I need a nice cover cap for the bowl to hide the battery - suggestions welcome |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:29:23 GMT
Next job is to wire up and solder together the circuit and centre pine. Hit some problems trying to earth the negative side of the attty circuit on the SS collar. Basically, you can't solder to stainless steel (at least I can't). Ended up redoing things severeal times and earthing to the bottom edge of the Ego connector. No pics of this bit, which is just as well as it was no too pretty |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:26:41 GMT
Things went on pause for a day or two whilst awaiting the arrival of Ego connectors from the group buy. Then disaster struck - the connectors were obviously designed for larger buttons and the ones from the LF kits fall straight through. Looking back at the pctures on the various sites t is clear that the HC ones are bigger than those from C9V or LF - so my own fault. After some hours digging around the bit box and trying out various rigged up things involving bits of condom and old centre pins, I hit upon a very simple solution. I cut a 9 by 11mm rectangle of plastic from some packagin (can't remember what was in it, but it was marked as PET). Then I assembled the connector/holder and circuit, slid the plastic over the micro swithc inside the connector and put a blob of super glue on the back of the button and dropped it down through the hole. bingo - the button no longer falls out and it is perfectly lined up with the hole and switch. It also makes final assembley of the button and connector a whole lot less faff  |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:17:44 GMT
Next it was time to attack the mouthpiece. I measured it up against a kanger carto:  The stem has a 10mm inner diameter near the base, and 8mm threaded portion and then 3.5mm air tube up to the mouth. I drilled this out to 9.5mm. Actually, drilled is not the word. The plastic is very soft and the drill just grabs it and spins it around. I had to run it in reverse and basically grind/ream it out from 3.5mm to 9.5mm in 0.5mm increments. Took bloody ages  I then cut and o-ring from a carto and super glued inside the base to provide a seal and grip for the carto:  Here it is test fitted to and SDK manual, with tank plinth and a Boge LR:  At which point, I dscover that Boges are slightly longer than Kangers! Dog! I dare not drill any deeper - the stem is already eggshell thin near the top (about 1mm by my reckoning), so I'll just live with a slight gap. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:09:02 GMT
Before doing anything else, I encased the whole pipe in insulating tape. This is to prevent any stresses causing further cracks and make sure the violence will only attack the bits I want it to  I then used a 16mm wood hole boerer and a hand drill to bore out the bowl to a bit wider than 16mm (by wiggling it and holding at a slight angle)  This took quite a while as I didn't want to overshoot and pierce the bottom of the pipe and the hole needed to be wide enough to take the battery and wiring.  I also emeried down the neck of the stem to less than 14mm. I then cut a 10mm ring off the Smok DCC and used it as a collar to accept the Ego connector and also strengthen that part of the pipe. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 20:02:39 GMT
This has been some time in the planning, involving lots of head scratching and browsing for appropriate bits. I want to get this done with out comlpetely destroying the pipe, so eventually marshalled the following:  One 16340 550mAh IW AMR battery, One Smok stainless steel Mega DCC One set of Ego electrics and button. Not shown is the required Ego connector (at this point in transit from China  ) First problem - the battery doesn't quite fit:  Lol. Will need to fix that. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 19:57:04 GMT
I had this brought back from Turkey by my sis about 20 years ago:  It has been used (not for tobacco  )  but is unlikely to be used again. It is also quite delicate and has a crack in the stem:  It has spent the last decade or more rattling around in the back of a drawer, so I thought why not convert it from gas to electric After all, it is beautifully carved.  |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 2:31:48 GMT
My experience of cracking so far -
2 clear V1 Sr - both had longtudinal cracks from the outset. They grew with use to the point where they leaked.
One was destroyed by a bout of curiosity and out into a franken tank the other has been repaired with a condom for now.
2 clear V2 Lr - one was crack free and has remained so. The other has a few circumferential cracks.
Unused as yet, so don't know if they ill get worse.
From the HC GB I gor two red lr ones - these have a couple of longitudinal cracks., and two yellow
sr ones which are crack free.
So it seems pretty random which are cracked and how, so far.
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 2:27:23 GMT
I forgot to dry burn & just went ahead & rinsed them under the hot tap. Will I have broken them? If not how long do they take to dry out? You don't even need to dry them out - just fill and vape. The first few tokes own't taste of much - just steam as the water comes off, but will be fine after that. |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 15, 2012 0:36:52 GMT
Well, it turns out it was just me. My Home Hub finally keeled over last night, after dropping the line, I rebooted and that was the last i saw of a stable internet connectiion. Phoned BT this am - extremely good telephone help - they finally figured out that I had the oldest possible Home Hub and it was dead or dying. Brand new one on its way to me by Tuesday. So how are you typing you this I hear you ask? Is this a message from the future? Nope - I dug out my even older Voyager 205 (bloody good litle router, but limited to 2MBs without hacks which I'm just of to research). It pays to never chuck stuff out I have to say it was a very distressing 24 hours - I nearly had to do some housework |
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Post by domesticextremist on Apr 13, 2012 1:34:17 GMT
Don't try and solder wire to stainless steel tube. You can't - I just spent about six hours finding out the hard way. Oh, and I managed to burn my finger whilst looking at something else . Given up for today. |
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