Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 10:12:26 GMT
A cheap Aldi cola bath then a bath in fairy and water....... Never heard the cola one before but what a great idea. I must try this
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 10:04:26 GMT
That's the other point hijack, one I don't mention too much, but it's probably more relevant to us as vapers. 20Amps through a 0.08 Ohm battery will produce anything up to 32 Watts under perfect conditions. That's a lot of internal heat. There's so many variables though, as already mentioned the mod and coil come into play here and affect the maths, I'd expect 24 Watts to be nearer the mark. Still a lot of heat though.
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 9:52:19 GMT
I know peeps have been sub0uming for years now, and over that time the batteries have improved so much things like the IR and Volt drop have become a concern.
However there's an emergence of newer cells with much higher IR.
AWT have a 20/35Amp battery with an IR better than 0.08 Ohms. So better could mean 0.079 Ohms. Draw 20Amps from that and we get a calculated 3.05 Volts at the battery's terminals.
I'm not denying the resistance of the whole mod will reduce this drop, but at what point will a cell become useless (and dangerous).
The AWT I've been testing will only deliver 52.2 Amps through a dead short - maybe that's what the makers believe will make them safer batteries.
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 9:46:13 GMT
I can see this is going to be debated much more. Is it the case then, that the voltage drop seen in a battery under load is a reaction to the stress of said load and the drop in voltage does not diminish the stress that is placed upon it and only serves to maintain same level of stress? EDIT: SRY so slow putting my thoughts to paper my Question may have already been answered. I need to have a read first In fact the stress is reduced as the battery won't have to deliver the whole 20Amps. This affects everything with the battery, including internal heat. Simply, every stress is reduced. By deducting the voltage drop, you are effectively saying that the battery didn't have to do that work. Bang on. As soon as a battery is asked to do the work expected it falls short. Of course you could work the calculations in reverse to ensure you DO get that 20Amps, but with that being on the limit I wouldn't recommend it.
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 9:33:25 GMT
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 9:21:33 GMT
I have for regulated mods. I don't think headroom for mechs is too important with the batteries listed so far - as soon as ypu fire a low ohm coil the battery's volts will immediately drop, kind of giving it's own headroom. You have a concern? Better to discuss it here With Mech mods the measured voltage under load should not be used to calculate the amps being pulled. The battery still puts out it's full voltage, you are only seeing the volts that get used by the coil. he remaining volts have been consumed by resistances in the mod, normally the switch. The lower the coil resistance the higher the loss to the other resistances, it works as a ratio. The point is that you should measure the voltage at the battery, not under load, as that is what the battery will dispense, although you will not see all of it at a single point inthe circuit. Wrong. Take a HE4 as an example. We already know the safe continuous draw is 20Amps. Now say we try to pull that 20Amps from a fresh HE4 with a 0.21Ohm coil. As soon as we do the terminal voltage will drop to 3.84Volts (typ), giving a current draw of 18.3Amps. Add to that the resistance of the metals in the mod, the joints, any wires, a mosfet. Add the fast drain for the first 200mAh or so and you're soon vaping around 16Amps. As the HE4 is a good quality cell I'd say that was safe. It's about the combined effect of everything that's happening inside the cell. The simple maths is fine, but if you look under the skin chemistry and physics rule. As the battery is in series with the switch, body, wiring and coil it becomes a part of the overall resistance of the circuit.
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 6, 2015 9:09:44 GMT
Ripshod, have not seen these on the list, Efest IMR18500 1100 v2, red, button top. Added, thank you
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 17:36:19 GMT
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 16:30:33 GMT
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 15:43:09 GMT
Where these batteries fall apart is when they're used with a mod such as a Provari or a Smok M50/65. All too soon there will be 'low battery'/'weak battery' or some such warning. That is where I approve of such mods, they take care of the user (you and me) rather than pure profit. They actually measure the battery's voltage under load, something which should definitely be encouraged
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 15:29:30 GMT
Wizardry is where many peeps go wrong. I value your input hijack, raising some questions others aren't asking No 'dark ages' to it, unless you want to step back about 10 years
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 15:23:32 GMT
It's not okay. That's the point. I want to list batteries that CAN be used at the limits with no harm. Of course there will always be peeps that can fry a VTC5, but with an IR of (typically) 0.013 Ohms it's a whole lot harder to fry a VTC that say a 35Amp 2600mAh (clue there) AWT. I'm saddened by such batteries being recommended for vapers, when the companies supplying them are only interested in profit (I recall I mention this elsewhere on the forum). We can't advise 'idiots' but we have to be careful how we label peeps as such. At the end of the day they are only going on the information provided by peeps such as you and me. And so I stand up and speak!! There isn't a single battery in my 18650 list that has an IR(DC) over 0.025 Ohms (rated and tested). That includes all the relables
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 15:08:01 GMT
Using pure maths a VTC5/4/3 would be capable of over 100Watts, but we have to take into consideration the IR of the battery and the joints/wires within the mod. A simple method for regulated mods is to consider the battery's voltage as 2.5Volts. This will allow for battery drain and Volt drops. so - 30x2.5 = 75Watts (2.5Volts takes into consideration a drained battery and the Volt drop) I'm not intending to treat anyone as dumb, just taking the maths out of it all to make it easier to get the head around You have to admit hijack, as rated outputs of batteries get higher the IR becomes all the more important (especially with one company pushing a 20Amp (quoted 35Amp) battery with an IR of less that 0.08Ohms (DC)). Using V=IR we see that 20x0.08=1.6Volts. A freshly charged battery could easily drop to 2.6Volts when fired. The offender in this case is AWT, but seeing how easy it is to push such batteries is BLOODY FRIGHTENING!!!!!
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 15:02:24 GMT
Should be fine on a TAB, unless it's a really early version. Having said that I think 640 would be bang on with any tablet (including Apple carp)
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Post by Ripshod on Jun 5, 2015 14:57:16 GMT
Where's mine!!!
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