Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:41:10 GMT
Surely that would mean without the EU we'd have the chance to fight for our own TPD? Too optimistic?
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:33:41 GMT
If you mean these banditruss then I'd say yes, they are what he says they are. My only problem with Torchy is over-specced cells (listing the Peak Current). For example he's listing 25Rs as 30Amp.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:22:41 GMT
Good idea Roscopecotrain. I think I'll get together with VapingBad and compile a list of the better batteries and their power limits, rather than amps. A chart with the figures listed rather than having to be calculated would make things easier for everyone - as well as safer I don't think we'll be able to include rewraps though, sources can change like the weather.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:11:18 GMT
If you read the discussions banditruss it seems a bit of a gamble tbh.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:07:54 GMT
Ah, those. I can't remember anything being proved, and although I like to doubt the Chinese, I have to go with the flow and trust that when FT state 'Authentic' that they will be genuine. Until proved otherwise.
Some reports of the wrong cell being delivered, or DOA (0.0Volts) so i don't know.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 9:04:24 GMT
I don't recall seeing the 100Watt update released for the BEC Pro, so can assume it'll only be 50 Watts.
All the mods would be fine with 20Amp cells, LG HE2/HE4, Sammy 25R etc. However you reall do need a 30Amp cell for the IPV 70Watter.
Simple method (without revealing any secret wizardry) is to take the wattage and divide by 2.5 for regulated mods, or 3.2 for mechs. 70/2.5=28Amps.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 8:58:15 GMT
I'm gonna try and keep this simple, although the fact is it isn't. What I'll attempt is to condense all the info into bite sized chunks that are easy to digest. There are lots of new cells appearing making wild discharge current claims. So what I'll do is take one specific cell (the AWT 40Amp 2600mAh 18650 from Gearbest) and show you why it won't do what we're lead to believe by numbers. So, the cell itself: Looks good eh? Well, frankly no. I'm used to the maths so straight away I can see one warning. Take lines 8 & 9, the continuous and maximum currents. To my eye they're too close together. eg, take the LG HE4. Continuous Current 20Amps, Peak Current 35Amps. Peak is Continuous + 75% Take the VTC4. Continuous Current 30Amps, Peak Current 60Amps. Peak is Continuous + 100% So we can see the difference is quite large. AWT. Continuous Current 35Amps, Peak Current 40Amps. Peak is continouous + 14%. That result is not expected. I'd expect any Li-Ion cell to have a Peak at least 35% over the Continuous. Straight away this got me interested in the truth. So I went on a hunt last night and read through a few reviews. Some were obviously biased for or against this cell, so ignoring them I found a good review from a trusted source. It's actually the same source I got the specifications from: I wouldn't expect ANYONE to see what's wrong here. Someone with a grasp of Ohm's law would stand a 25-30% chance of spotting it. I work with Ohm's Law every day so I see it like a 100Watt lightbulb in a room with no windows. Why? Let's say we use this cell at 20Amps. I'm not saying it won't deliver, but what does happen by the laws of physics when it does is quite a shock. So, V=IR = 20x0.04 = 0.8Volts. If the fresh cell has a voltage of 4.2Volts, when fired at 20Amps the Volts drop to 3.4 instantly. Okay. This is supposed to be a 35Amp cell, so 35x0.04 = 1.4Volts. So the Volts drop to 2.8. We're bordering on battery homicide here now, that's right on the limit. Now - the shocker - POWER. Straight to the crux of it. at 35 Amps Power = I 2R = 35 2x0.04 = 49 Watts. That's 49Watts of HEAT being generated inside the cell. That bugger is gonna heat up like a roman candle. All this would have been worse if I'd used 0.05Ohms for the Internal Resistance. This stuff isn't all about Current/Capacity - and I'm glad I know enough to spot things like this. Vape Safe!!
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 8:45:46 GMT
100Watts so I assume dual cell?
As you only need 50Watts from each cell 20Amps would be plenty enough.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 6:52:43 GMT
They are rated at 22A officially but this includes a 15%-20% FoS (from an internal doc I've managed to see a while back, and seems to be confirmed by testing, hence why torchy rates them 30A). That's a spec 50% over what the manufacturer put on the label, and 36% over their actual (tested) rating. And there is the reason I'm hesitant to recommend the guy any more. He's overrating a lot of batteries these days. If he'd rated them at 20Amps it's erring on the side of safety. But by rating them at 30Amps he's competing with the unsafe money-making profiteers. I have to add also that the AWTs linked earlier (from FT)are rewrapped 20Amp batteries, 40Amp peak.
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Post by Ripshod on May 23, 2015 6:44:17 GMT
It's not easy to cancel a licence. A mate of mine (a landlord) got fined for having a TV in a house that had no electricity supply, and hadn't for 4 months. So whether you have an aerial or not. Whether you have electricity or not. If the TV has a tuner in it (even if it's just analogue) it's deemed capable of receiving live TV and you have to have a licence. If you have a PC and it's linked to the net, then it's deemed capable of receiving live TV over the net, and you need a licence. Not too sure where 3G/4G smartphones would stand. Maybe one day?? Seems saying you don't watch live TV means squat - there's no way to prove it. That word 'capable' is capable of anything in law. That's not the case anymore, checkout the money saving expert link earlier It's in the Magistrates' view that a TV owner has to prove they don't watch live TV. How the hell can anyone do that. No aerial? Doesn't matter, small set-top aerials can be hidden in seconds. I like Martin Lewis, he gives some great advice. On this occasion however it's open to interpretation and TV Licencing and the Courts see it a different way. The law, sir, is an ass!!
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Post by Ripshod on May 22, 2015 21:55:07 GMT
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Post by Ripshod on May 22, 2015 21:44:57 GMT
If you only need 20Amps then the 25R is the better choice - 2500mAh Vs 2100.
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Post by Ripshod on May 22, 2015 21:34:06 GMT
It's not easy to cancel a licence. A mate of mine (a landlord) got fined for having a TV in a house that had no electricity supply, and hadn't for 4 months. So whether you have an aerial or not. Whether you have electricity or not. If the TV has a tuner in it (even if it's just analogue) it's deemed capable of receiving live TV and you have to have a licence. If you have a PC and it's linked to the net, then it's deemed capable of receiving live TV over the net, and you need a licence.
Not too sure where 3G/4G smartphones would stand. Maybe one day??
Seems saying you don't watch live TV means squat - there's no way to prove it. That word 'capable' is capable of anything in law.
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Post by Ripshod on May 22, 2015 18:53:22 GMT
as far as i'm aware there are none nowadays. Any listed vtc5's are likely to be fakes ^^^^ What Pepperty said thumb up You can get the VTC4s from myepack if you're needing 30Amps, or the Nitecores from the same place.
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Post by Ripshod on May 22, 2015 18:43:35 GMT
Full fat FT link, there's more discusion in there. I don't know, I'm kinda in two minds over this one. ETA: Manufacturers page <<<<<< a little slow loading
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