Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 21:17:18 GMT
VTC4 just gone in. It measured 0.013 ohms straight off the charger, so I expect the truth to be 0.015/0.016 ohms when settled. Vaping like a champ  |
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 21:07:28 GMT
Welcome aboard antz1970. Not to worry about the M80, still a good mod without the TC.  |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 20:53:46 GMT
It's been discussed on other forums - the opinion is it's the same board, just with the bluetooth disabled.
I can't say either way, currently we don't know a way to show the software version on these. On the M80 Plus you can make it show with a reset.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 20:46:33 GMT
that particular torchy battery is currently on charge as i use it mostly in mech mods tomorrow when i get home ill whack it in and see what happens Much appreciated it0mm0 |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 20:40:18 GMT
Purchased from torchy back in the summer but not really used until now as been using purple efests in my ipv2. Nuff said. If it's from torchy it's good Just noticed torchy is quoting the wrong Amps on his batteries. On his rewraps he's quoting absolute max not continuous. Never seen (noticed) that before. |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 20:27:26 GMT
i sussed out why my bt50 was doing it on my lemo The 510 pin on the lemo wasnt protruding enough, half a turn and it hasnt done it since saying that i also dumped my torchy battery for a vtc5 although i dont think that was the problem a few days now and no wattage drop First I've heard of it with a BT50, but then I haven't been watching them. If you still have the torchy battery would you try using it again? ETA: Having said that I have the BEC Pro. Sometimes that gives me 'weak battery' warning when it isn't, but never a watts drop. Possibly a different chipset tho, definitely different firmware. |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 19:47:26 GMT
Mine drops the wattage with 40% battery showing as remaining on the mod. I have a vtc5 in there that had previously had only a few charges. I don't profess to having much knowledge of electronics though so just thought I would give you my observations Thanks jmw2309, kinda defeats the object of the current test. There is a difference between battery types for sure, but if you're having this problem with a genuine VTC5 then it looks like the end of the road for these mods. Seems I got one of the few good ones.  |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 18:25:18 GMT
Would it perform better in mech mode when this issue arises? I've never tested that - yet. As an aside my m65 just dropped to 35Watts. On the next vape I got the 'weak battery' warning and no vape. Plugged the USB in for a second and got 25%. Just put the battery on my trusty D4 and 3.41Volts, exactly as it should be. I think the 25% is the capacity left til the battery hits 2.5Volts. The figures fit as there IS only a little capacity left between 3.4 and 2.5 Volts. |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 18:04:08 GMT
3.91 Volts, won't be long |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 17:58:15 GMT
VTC3/4 have similar IR to the 5.
If only everyone with problems had access to a VTC3/4 for testing. But I've seen it, it happens.
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 17:50:59 GMT
I'm not denying the mod IS over-sensitive to sag, but the above post is the reason mine is fine.
I'll use the HE2 as an example. Ignoring the various volt drops through the mod.
At 4 volts vaping at 40 watts I'm drawing ~10Amps from the battery. At 10 amps the 0.021 ohms is causing a drop of 0.21 Volts at the battery terminals. The mod is seeing this and thinking 'weak/bad/poor battery'!
You got to admit a drop of 0.2 turns the 4.0 into 3.8 Volts, and that's what the mod is seeing. iirc there have been similar problems with the provari's. No-one kicked off, they just got better batteries (or is that just down to the 'provari' name?).
disclaimer: I'm ignoring the commonly understood overheads as I'm only considering the battery side of the electronics.
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 17:34:39 GMT
I've just tried a Samsung 25R in mine and I get the watt drop problem, a HE2 is worse, a HE4 slightly better. Gone back to my VTC5 and all's fine. Got a VTC4 on charge, will try that when it's done. Battery issue anyone?  I think I'm onto something here. Sony VTC5 IR = 13 milliohms (0.013 ohms) Samsung 25R IR = 28 milliohms (0.028 ohms) LG HE2 IR = 20.5 milliohms (0.021 ohms) LG HE4 IR = 20 milliohms (0.020 ohms) What these numbers represent is the internal resistance of the batteries. The higher the number, the higher the volts sag under load. Probably no real help but it explains the problems and why I have none. |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 17:28:00 GMT
At first I didn't know how to take it, then I realised it's just good old Nathaniel Tapley sticking 2 fingers up at all the anti's. Nice find and  Nat ETA: If you don't get it he's a comedy writer (sssshhhh, don't tell 'em yet) |
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 25, 2015 17:19:26 GMT
robby tell me if this makes sense, or if I'm just plain CRAZY. I believe Smok have dropped a classic boo-boo. I believe the ramp-up delay is down to current limiting, partly proved by the ramp being non-linear. This theory takes into account the resistance change (the curve to the ramp), though during the ramp-up this will be quite small anyway. As the resistance rises so does the power, until the point where it'll fire just fine. I also believe Smok's interpretation of temperature limiting is to remove power totally until the next firing. More thermal protection than temperature control. This is all theory based on what I'm seeing and my experience, but adds an edge to the conjecture. Or is it just my turn to talk bollox?? 
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 24, 2015 20:48:13 GMT
Finally had a response from Segonote
Whatever that means thinkingsmileySeems to be the reverse of what we're seeing.
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Nat 