nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on Jun 2, 2014 14:13:07 GMT
This is now gone
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on Jun 2, 2014 13:35:42 GMT
I have around 20 metres of this stuff left over if anybody wants it for free. I ordered by mistake but I have read that it is good for dual coiling. Due to the tremendous help I've received here from some very bodacious people, I'll pay the p&p
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on Jun 1, 2014 15:39:26 GMT
Nice. I'm not that advanced yet but that's a beauty
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on Jun 1, 2014 14:35:37 GMT
I think I've learned that much Greigster. Just need to get my act together I think
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on Jun 1, 2014 11:31:17 GMT
Hmm. That seems very high. Are you pinching the coils together so they are all touching? I know it seems a waste of wire, but you would be better just getting some .30 or .32 Kanthal rather than trying to make do. I use.32 Kanthal and I get consistent 1.4 ohm coils using 9 wraps around 1.5mm drill bit on my Kanger heads. I don't have a blow torch or flat tweezers yet so I made do with the wifes tweezers (she's gonna kill me lol) and the gas hob. I didn't get perfectly close coils but not far off. 2 wraps less than your guide and I'm getting between 1.5 and 1.8 everytime which is my sweet spot. Just can't believe how much better cotton wicking is compared to silica. The juice I used to think was horrible is now much more pleasant (except blueberry lol). I have some wire coming soon mate so I'll update you then. Fantastic help though and very much appreciated
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 21:54:55 GMT
Thanks for that jess. I'm still on catch-up mode so I've not previously seen that
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 21:34:51 GMT
I must admit to being a bit lost with abbreviations used in the vaping world. You more experienced folk may laugh at this but it's helped me out a few times For newbies like me
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 21:13:41 GMT
If you are using double twisted .15 Kanthal, you will half the resistance of a single length of .15mm. You will gain a little in terms of surface area but that will be short lived due to the twist getting gunked up. If you use 9 wraps around a 1.5mm drill bit, you should end up with about 1.4ish ohms. After the coil is mounted on the kanger head (having first done the pinching and heating), then pulse the fire button 5 or 6 times to make sure you have even heating and no shorts. Once cooled, take some pulled cotton wool, twist the end into a point and thread through the coil. To get the correct amount of cotton wool, you need to be able to pull it back and forth easily through the coil without feeling much resistance. The cotton wool should be touching the whole of the internal coil circumference but move easily from side to side. If you find that the wick is difficult to pull from side to side, then there is too much cotton wool. After you have trimmed the wick just a tad bigger than the flange of the Kanger head, you need to "fluff up the ends" Then just prime the wick with about 2 drops on each end of the wick and 1 drop directly on to the coil. Pop the chimney and silicone cap back on, re-assemble your attie and leave to stand for a couple of minutes. You should not get any leaks or dry hits. Have a look at Super Shiney`s tutorial and you should not go wrong. Also be aware that if you pull too hard when you take a toke or have the air control too far closed, you can pull too much juice through which will cause flooding. Keep us updated, I am sure between us, we will sort you Edit:- Also make sure that all your tank connections are air tight and silicon seals are not damaged. If air can get in then juice can get out. @griegster I just made a coil just as you suggested but I get 3.2 however, it vapes like a dream with cotton now and no heavy leakage
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 21:09:56 GMT
The quickest way to speed up any windows based PC is to press both the windows key and R together to bring up a prompt. Type msconfig and then choose the Startup tab. The more bumf you can rid of on there the better. It is knowing what is bumpf though, I am self taught and manage adequately, but you can guarantee I would delete the most important thing lol A good start is to stop adobe right in it's tracks. It takes fractions longer to start without pre-loading sammy13
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 21:08:18 GMT
Actually, nelsonbloke, Windows 8.1 has an easier option: RIGHT-click in the very bottom left corner and a *very* useful menu pops up Select: Task manager > startup and you'll see a full list of programs/processes that are set to run when you boot your computer - and the impact each one has! You can disable obvious ones and google the cryptic ones. If you don't feel confident, just disable them one at a time and reboot each time. If it does something *oops!*, re-enable it and try again. It sounds a bit cumbersome, but it's really simple once you try it. I know of nobody who uses 8.1 willy9b. I tried it a few times and went back to windows 7
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 19:40:47 GMT
If you are using double twisted .15 Kanthal, you will half the resistance of a single length of .15mm. You will gain a little in terms of surface area but that will be short lived due to the twist getting gunked up. If you use 9 wraps around a 1.5mm drill bit, you should end up with about 1.4ish ohms. After the coil is mounted on the kanger head (having first done the pinching and heating), then pulse the fire button 5 or 6 times to make sure you have even heating and no shorts. Once cooled, take some pulled cotton wool, twist the end into a point and thread through the coil. To get the correct amount of cotton wool, you need to be able to pull it back and forth easily through the coil without feeling much resistance. The cotton wool should be touching the whole of the internal coil circumference but move easily from side to side. If you find that the wick is difficult to pull from side to side, then there is too much cotton wool. After you have trimmed the wick just a tad bigger than the flange of the Kanger head, you need to "fluff up the ends" Then just prime the wick with about 2 drops on each end of the wick and 1 drop directly on to the coil. Pop the chimney and silicone cap back on, re-assemble your attie and leave to stand for a couple of minutes. You should not get any leaks or dry hits. Have a look at Super Shiney`s tutorial and you should not go wrong. Also be aware that if you pull too hard when you take a toke or have the air control too far closed, you can pull too much juice through which will cause flooding. Keep us updated, I am sure between us, we will sort you Edit:- Also make sure that all your tank connections are air tight and silicon seals are not damaged. If air can get in then juice can get out. Thanks for that Greigster . Some excelllent advice there and I will be taking it onboard for future builds
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 16:08:03 GMT
You've done well pal. When I first started I had more shorts than JJB but l got there .. eventually.
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 15:58:41 GMT
The quickest way to speed up any windows based PC is to press both the windows key and R together to bring up a prompt. Type msconfig and then choose the Startup tab. The more bumf you can rid of on there the better.
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 15:51:22 GMT
Will that not affect the coil resistance? I've found a sweet spot of 1.5 now on my home builds using silica. Yes, it will. That's why I use thicker Kanthal. You could always do one less wrap... how many are you doing? t.b.h. there is no chance I could make your set-up work. I'm twisting .15 Kanthal with 3 wraps. I ordered the wrong Kanthal and have 23 metres of the stuff left, I'm not wasting it Thanks for the advice though mate. All info is greatly appreciated.
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nelsonbloke
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Post by nelsonbloke on May 31, 2014 15:42:19 GMT
My opinion would be to go with 2.0 or even 2.5. 1.5 is very slim and will require an expert eye to get the cotton wool right. The "less is more" argument is not entirely helpful. If you aren't filling those wick holes in your Kanger heads, you'll get leaks. My preferred method (T3S, Evod, PT) is to use 2mm AND get a thick wick going as well. Will that not affect the coil resistance? I've found a sweet spot of 1.5 now on my home builds using silica.
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