Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 29, 2015 15:41:39 GMT
Yeah Tufur, they ain't kicked me out yet.  |
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 19, 2015 7:26:37 GMT
So after faffing about with my Waidea all day, I've come to the conclusion that having a very secure connection between the top plate and the main body is essential for proper grounding. Ran a solder line around the 510 cable so there's a solid electrical connection between it and the brass nut, and was still having weak battery issues.
So I roughed up the top of the chassis and the bottom of the plate with a razor blade and Scotch plastic scouring pad, cleaned it all real good with isopropyl alcohol, and then used a good quality T5 tipped driver and really snugged that bugger down, using the old lug-nut method, tightening opposite corners in a star pattern, while putting a lot of downward pressure on the plate with my fingers.
Working like a champ now, three tanks later.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 18, 2015 11:02:43 GMT
Just have to be careful that the washer doesn't prevent the bottom barrel from screwing in fully, else you'll have a deeper 510 pin, and it's already borderline for some atomizers, as you've found.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 18, 2015 10:41:49 GMT
Certainly explains the early feedback reports of connectivity issues that were posted on 3fvape & reports of units dying. If that hand tighted cener pin cap comes loose, you lose the ground/earth & the whole unit shuts down. Good news is its an easy fix.
Croak said it is exactly the way they did it on the early original Vapor Flask 2.1 & Waidea must have gotten one of these & duplicated it exactly. No, it's not exactly how VF did it on the original 2.1, it's just that Waidea copied the original's ground scheme in general, which wasn't up to Evolv spec for a DNA40 (though just fine for a DNA30). Same basic problem the early runs of the HCigar HB40 had. |
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 18, 2015 10:36:43 GMT
That silver portion underneath, where the positive pin is, is threaded, and in theory should act as a nut to secure the ground. In practice, not so much. I've had some "weak battery" episodes with mine, a common result when grounding isn't solid.
There's also a fair amount of anodizing in the battery threads, and I don't see any indication that they took the additional step that Kangxin did and ran a ground direct to chassis as well. Ground problems will ensue.
Good news is, that 510 is an easy fix, you could add a dollop of solder to it as-is, or mount a ring terminal above the brass hex nut and solder to that, or just simply solder to the brass hex nut.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 18, 2015 9:57:03 GMT
Could be Robby, but the odds of three or four different companies all independently coming up with a near-identical implementation of TC in the same time period using identical hardware are vanishingly small. This board is used in the Waidea, the Kangxin, and apparently the Heatvape Invader Mini, among others.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 18, 2015 9:18:25 GMT
Good news on the 510, looks like the internals of a FDV 510 will screw right inside the existing outer barrel Waidea uses, which would give you a spring-loaded 510 and you could retain the attractive external top plate. Also looks like it's a standard ~10mm diameter 510, so you could use any 510 of your choice easily enough. And unlike the Kangxin flask, there's ample room for a longer 510. www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/temperature-control/648907-vapor-flask-v3-dna40-clone-thread-243.html#post15635545EDIT: Tpat beat me to it. This board software doesn't refresh properly with the page open already. Didn't see any posts after Robby's initial impressions until I hit post. |
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 7, 2015 2:31:56 GMT
Guys, there's already a delay on the Kangxin, same as the Waidea. Test it yourself, it's less than a full second, but more than half a second. It's the same board inside. As for people complaining it doesn't work, there's just as many if not more that were complaining about the Kangxin, with the same issues.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 6, 2015 22:18:15 GMT
Don't know who reviewed this but the info is wrong, Kangxin produced the KX 40 D long before this other firm, I also hear that the wallaby or whatever it calls itself does not operate anywhere near as good as the Kangxin clone. Clone wars lol  I'm pretty sure both Kangxin and Waidea got the same board from somebody else, it's just that Kangxin was first to market with it. Too many similarities between the two, and I find it hard to believe that two independant shops would produce essentially the same product in the same time-frame, right down to the same Chinglish text in the user interface. And I can tell you that the Kangxin flask, whilst having a good board, is rubbish inside elsewhere. My buttons fell inside the case because the only thing holding them in place was gobs of hot glue. The only thing holding the board in place was a square of foam rubber underneath and tension from the wires piled on top of it. At least the Waidea clone has the buttons and board mounted on a proper internal sled, similar to the authentic. |
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Apr 6, 2015 22:12:27 GMT
For those of you that might be on the fence between ordering a Kangxin or the new "1:1" clone recently released by Waidea EDIT page didn't refresh, didn't see this was already posted: link
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 13, 2015 18:30:43 GMT
What kind of batteries would you recommand for this flask ? Is it important to go for high end high current batteries or the fact there is 2 batteries allows to chose lower capable current batteries and favor capacity instead ? It's a false economy going with 3000-ish mAh batteries usually. A 20 amp continuous 2500 mAh Sony VTC5, Samsung 25R or LG HE2/HE4 actually has more usable capacity in a mod. Those Panasonic and their various re-wraps from Efest, etc, fall off a cliff in performance about mid-charge, so they end up needing to use that extra 500mAh and then some. |
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 6, 2015 15:19:33 GMT
3FVape is expecting quite a lot of stock from Kangxin first of next week.
Yeah Antz, that's the one.
I've had mine since Monday, quite pleased with it.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 6, 2015 14:06:23 GMT
I'd go with 3FVape. One of the ECF members has the same early version as Robby, it had the weak battery issue/only using one battery. He emailed 3FVape with a video of the problem, they told him they'd ship him a new one at no charge once they had them back in stock first of next week. And to keep his old one. Hard to beat service like that.
Just be sure and AVOID the newest one they have listed, the one that has the stainless 510 with the single air channel, and with the pics of the silver version having a brass firing button. It's the Waidea model and TC doesn't work, and the center pin is fixed, solid, doesn't move. Rubbish.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 4, 2015 20:02:41 GMT
Works fine in the left hand, the caveat being it's going to be a thumb-fire, or web of thumb fire. In the left hand you just naturally hold it higher in the hand and the up-down buttons are quite a bit to just slightly higher than your hand (thumb fire using fat part of thumb is the higher of the two, and the most natural grip)
In right hand, it's index finger fired, it tends to rest lower in your grip, and the up-down buttons are making contact between the knuckle and base of your index finger (depending on finger length) , but it's very loose contact, the curvature of your fingers and the flask pretty much preclude any inadvertent adjustment, even if you're squeezing quite hard. And the buttons require a fair amount of force to activate.
TL;DR: No worries about inadvertent button presses whilst holding the Vapor Flask. And you can lock them if you so desire, simply by holding down both at once for a few seconds.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Mar 3, 2015 4:25:38 GMT
Mine finally arrived from 3FVape today, and I'm well pleased with it. Chuffed, even Note the screws in the battery tubes for adjustment:  Battery caps line up perfect, threading is free of anodizing and smooth:  USB connector is aligned perfectly with the cutout:  Fit and finish was perfect, no flaws found, and I really like the coating (don't mind the white stuff above the buttons, that's paper towel lint)   Temperature control, as we all know, works fine. I did a quick and dirty twisted 30AWG Ni200 build on a Kayfun V4 clone, and even that over-engineered piece of shite worked: |
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