Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 24, 2015 0:42:20 GMT
Thanks croak, will try to use my 10 thumbs and lift the lit ???? From the ECF forum, another Kangxin VF owner having the same problem, and his solution:
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 24, 2015 0:04:32 GMT
That's assuming they're making good contact Robby...dodgy screws and anodising can be a bad combination. And even the real VF has issues with the battery caps at times.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 23, 2015 22:25:54 GMT
Croak, tried it all, still only 1 battery used, to little vapetime wish istick 50watt had tc it just work's well ???? It's a ground connection, I still have no doubt, just need to find out which one, and since it seems to run fine with the battery under the 510, that narrows down which side is the problem. If you look at Robby's tear-down picture, you'll see two screws attached to the chassis on the upper left and upper right of this picture. Those are your most likely culprits, along with the battery caps and threading there.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 23, 2015 19:24:27 GMT
Same problem can crop up on the authentic VF, and some other real DNA40 devices. It's usually a battery grounding issue. Make sure there's no anodizing around the battery threads, and screw those caps in tighter, finger tight may not be enough for a solid connection. If that doesn't clear it up, make sure the battery leads at the top, under the display/510 cover, are seated well and also not threaded through anodized metal. The more of this sort of stuff I see, the more I'm convinced this is close to being a 1:1 clone of an Evolv board and not reverse-engineered. That's a good thing and a bad thing. Also, anyone can use a single battery with a Vapor Flask, authentic or clone, since they're parallel, that's a feature, not a bug.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 21, 2015 17:22:45 GMT
How long's the battery life? Does vaping at 25 watts give 2 days easily? That all depends on you mate. Myself, I go through a single 18650 in about 3 hours on my regulated mods, and get about 5-6 hours out of a dual parallel 18650 mod, and I don't expect much more than that out of the VF running Kanthal. But that's just my low ohm, lung hitting chain vaping 10ml+ per day habit, your mileage may vary. As a bit of a bonus, with TC active, you'll tend to get a bit better battery life just because it's modulating power down quite often.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 21, 2015 0:14:07 GMT
Thanks guys! car147, I know you think this VF clone is as good as your VS but do you own an authentic VF? How does the finish compare? Totally different finish. The real VF has a brushed finish, even the coloured versions show the "grain" of the metal. The Kangxin is more of a smooth anodised finish, like you'd find on many other anodised mods.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 18, 2015 19:05:40 GMT
Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch? Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job. Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w. The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40. Dunno, sounds about as buggy as the DNA40 to me. I think it's cloned too well.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 18, 2015 14:01:36 GMT
Still waiting on my Kangxin USB DNA40 Vaporflask clone, which has been sitting idle somewhere since the 9th. A UD Goblin arrived minutes ago, totally forgot I ordered it. Alas, work means I'll not be using it until evening. Looks nice though, has the draw I was looking for, I've been wanting a truly airy RTA since the Atlantis ruined me from ever being able to go back to restrictive attys. After being sold a bill of goods on how airy the Lemo was (it isn't, except in comparison to something even tighter like a Kayfun), this Goblin is a good 'un.
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Post by Croak on Feb 18, 2015 7:40:26 GMT
Unfortunately, DNA40 pre-heat only works with Ni200 builds. In regular Kanthal mode, it's just the same as a DNA30. The SX350 has an advantage there, and for normal wire builds, it's overall just a better board solution than the DNA40 IMHO, with accuracy on par with a DNA board, a wider power range, more options, a better display (in the full size board), and the firmware can be updated by the end-user, no small thing. Its biggest failing is a large board footprint, and they partially addressed that with the SX 350 Mini board, at the cost of a smaller display.
I expect the SX350J will maintain that superiority whilst adding temperature control, and from what I've seen, the end-user is still going to be picking a temperature, not some other unit of measure. How the board itself calculates temperature may differ from Evolv's simple resistance delta method, as it seems it's not only going to be reading resistance changes but actual power input as well. Knowing both how much power it's fed the coil over a period of time combined with monitoring the resistance change, it has the potential to more accurately determine temperature, and almost as important, give better/smoother control to the process. Note I said potential, how the finished product actually works is just conjecture at this point.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 17, 2015 22:43:20 GMT
Profiles/mode will still be useful for Kanthal builds, and lets face it, Kanthal builds will still be the majority of builds used on this device, just like they are on DNA40 devices, by and large.
But the mode feature of the SX350 is one I really like, to be quite honest, works a treat on heavier wire builds, and is easily defeatable if you don't want it.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 17, 2015 13:37:38 GMT
When I was at school Heat = Power x Time, (it was along time ago and only a Comprehensive) but I doubt it's changed. Evolve have always stated that watts (power) = vapour so nothing different there either. That what has confused YiHi (or them confusing customers) with their temp limiting board SX350J Mini they keep using Joule in the spec for temperature when it is watts per second or heat which is not temperature. Joule maybe useful for measuring battery capacity, but it's like looking at your flue gauge in you car to see how fast you are going. But a watt is just a measure of joules per second. I reckon it's a French conspiracy, since Amps, Volts, and the Metric system all come from them. Waiting for the mods to start measuring Coulombs next.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 14, 2015 17:21:38 GMT
No display and the wattage settings are way to coarse ! It's not for you though mate, it's for the beginners, or those who simply don't need to faff about with smaller increments. It'll run most of the popular low-wattage MTL tanks out there on the first two settings, including the rebuildables, and do more than fine with the sub-ohm builds at 15w and up. And it's only going to cost about 20-25 quid in the next month or so. Cheap as an eGo twist was not that long ago, and aimed at the same market. I like having my DNA/Yihi level of control, but frankly, I could easily get by with 5w increments above 20w.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 14, 2015 16:48:37 GMT
I think ukecigstore were the first to get it so we can expect one of their presentations soon Yep: I quite like it for its simplicity. Doesn't look like it has stepdown, when the presenter fires that 0.7 build at 8 watts, it's probably more like 20w/battery voltage.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 14, 2015 15:04:05 GMT
I've had mine since the 7th of January, and it's been my daily driver, vaping at least 10ml a day, mostly with Atlantis on top, occasionally a Subtank 25mm, and a couple of RDAs built to 0.5ish just to see how it would do. Quite pleased with it still, other than the 510 being a bother with some attys and the battery door rattle (which I fixed with some tape).
Silver unit, finish is just now starting to show some wear on the edges. 510 connector is holding up so far, and I've got a 14mm Varitube low profile floating 510 sitting here if the need arises. USB charged it once, just to see how long it took (forever).
Expect Cloupor will have a DNA40 clone board version of this not long after CNY.
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Croak
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Post by Croak on Feb 11, 2015 1:16:40 GMT
For you guys who bought it from 3Fvape how was it shipped? as in with SingPost or China Airmail? Also what's the outcome of this VF temp clone, is it any good? Mine was shipped via China EMS/ePacket, but I'm back in the US now.
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