stuntmunky
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Post by stuntmunky on Nov 23, 2012 12:13:21 GMT
Just a thought as well, sorry to empty the messy contents of my head in public. But at the bottom of the page that Nick posted above, there are tubes with four or more holes in them. I was wondering if you could run the wire through a small section, up and down and place that in the centre of the wick . If you extended the negative screw to the same height as the positive, it would keep the run of exposed wire short. This arangement would work better with the airflow as is on most genesis and no heat would be lost to the air.
Need to find out the dimensions.
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Skwoddy
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Post by Skwoddy on Nov 23, 2012 12:17:10 GMT
That was discussed and even tried by scubabatdan, sadly it didnt work with capillary tubes, any attempt to negate the liquid shooting out of the top without a substance to slow it down also negated the reasons for using it.
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stuntmunky
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Post by stuntmunky on Nov 23, 2012 12:24:48 GMT
I must have missed that, the one I saw had the wire around the outside of three 1mm capillary tubes. Too many pages, not enough brain.
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NickIcon
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Post by NickIcon on Nov 23, 2012 12:25:46 GMT
Hehe, was planning to give them a ring sometime this afternoon!
I did see the "quadruple bore tubes" further down the page but I would imagine that these would be subject to the same issues as Scubatdan had when using 2 x 1mm tubes without any mesh or wicking material (just relying on capillary action). From what I gather it wasn't a success as the vapour produced would push out the (very!) hot liquid at the top of the bore holes, fill up again, vapourise and repeat. Do you think we could get some mesh up the holes? They look pretty small.
Like the idea of running the wire through the tube but fear we may lose out on surface area in contact with the wire.
Having the wire embedded in the wall of the tube seems ideal but not feasible (as far as I'm aware) due to the working temperature of the glass versus melting point of the wire.
Sandwich the coil between two tubes maybe? A bit bulky and still not completely isolated though...
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Skwoddy
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Post by Skwoddy on Nov 23, 2012 12:28:41 GMT
I do sense a complete redesign, I imagine alot of vendors / manufacturers are watching that thread very closely, its free R&D for them and a potential game changer.
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NickIcon
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Post by NickIcon on Nov 23, 2012 12:34:17 GMT
Oops - cross post
Oops again - Scubabatdan
Other thought - using the quad-bore tubes (if mesh fits) would significantly increase the surface area between mesh and tube. Wondering how that would affect wicking as well as vapour production.
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stuntmunky
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Post by stuntmunky on Nov 23, 2012 12:52:40 GMT
Yes I think that is the main problem, the eposed wire at the bottom and top would still be in contact with the juice. One of the earlier posts mentioned a second partion in the atty, with a hole to allow the top of the wick to enter and the air directed onto this. I think this could be quite viable with some thing like a cobra where the top cap goes on with O-rings rather than a screw thread. Personally I wouldn't want to do anything permanant to a cobra so it would mean a tube the same size as the top cap, a disk with the wick hole and an O ring around the outside to seal/insulate. This would be slid into place, an airhole drilled and the hole shebang sealed with something like the smok vivi tank top. It sounds fiddly on paper but I dont think it would be too hard in practice and once set, the wick is easy to remove/replaice so filling can be done from there. Might just be making excuses to buy a cobra though
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reefcat
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Post by reefcat on Nov 23, 2012 12:55:18 GMT
Wondering if a porous ceramic material might be the answer? I was thinking about ceramic diffusers like you blow air through in an aquarium. Here's a US supplier, will have a look around for a UK company... www.sentrotech.com/porous-ceramics
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Nov 23, 2012 13:03:12 GMT
I am somehow not very taken with this. It's certainly novel and it's good to see creative modders pushing the boundaries but I think it's more of a passing fad myself.
It may be good for a chain vaper, but that's about it. For someone who takes a couple of puffs and puts down his/her PV it's just going to mean lesser battery life as you have to heat the tube up before it starts vapourising juice again. Not too sure about the kind of flavour you are going to get from this arrrangement, but will defo try it.
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stuntmunky
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Post by stuntmunky on Nov 23, 2012 13:07:46 GMT
Something like the cyclone v2 could be even easier though, if you extended the negative post and placed the tube and coil higher on the wick. Maybe cut the wick short and crimp it to keep everything in place.
Ok, Im gonna stop drinking coffee and try and sit still for a while.
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Skwoddy
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Post by Skwoddy on Nov 23, 2012 13:09:43 GMT
Exactly that Macca, I will try it, I have enough redundant gennies to justify a go of it, Ill leave it to the brainstormers and industry to come up with the better ideas. lots of Ideas like Kanthal ribbon to be tried yet to increase wire to glass contact but early days and I do think something will come out of it. Could be wrong but I love the job the modders do. Im still waiting to see the "Home" none portable Device, no portability sizes to contend with and mains electricity, limitless possibilities
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NickIcon
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Post by NickIcon on Nov 23, 2012 14:17:54 GMT
Agreed - just adding a glass sleeve around our meshes is most unlikely to be a long term solution. That said there are indeed lots of ideas floating around and it would appear that there are quite a few people experimenting so I'm quite excited to see what happens!
Also - I, for one, am still struggling to coil my wicks efficiently so quite fancy giving it a go just to see how it works first hand and find out if the pros outweigh the cons or vice versa.
Edit - typos again...
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stuntmunky
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Post by stuntmunky on Nov 23, 2012 14:57:36 GMT
The thing that appeals to me is that this seems alot cleaner. I switched to ss mesh because I don't like the idea of silica/fiberglass fragments being inhailed and would worry about it long term. I also have concerns about the gunge that builds up though, not sure that I believe that 100% of the juice is vapourized especially if the coil isn't working perfectly. This would seem to eliminate alot of that.
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NickIcon
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Post by NickIcon on Nov 23, 2012 15:53:17 GMT
Right, have had a couple of very brief chats with Multi Labs and with H Baumbach. Numbers aren't quotes - only rough estimates for the time being.
Multi Labs have a MOV of £25 which would get a fairly large quantity of little 3mm OD, 2mm ID, 9mm long tubes (seems about right for my AGA-T) - probably 80 25 or so.
H Baumbach also gave me a rough estimate of 7-10 pieces of 4mm OD, 2mm ID, 9mm long for their MOV of £35.
Edit - Multi Labs gave me a proper quote for 50 pieces, have adjusted numbers above accordingly.
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Skwoddy
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Post by Skwoddy on Nov 23, 2012 17:18:32 GMT
Right, have had a couple of very brief chats with Multi Labs and with H Baumbach. Numbers aren't quotes - only rough estimates for the time being. Multi Labs have a MOV of £25 which would get a fairly large quantity of little 3mm OD, 2mm ID, 9mm long tubes (seems about right for my AGA-T) - probably 80 25 or so. H Baumbach also gave me a rough estimate of 7-10 pieces of 4mm OD, 2mm ID, 9mm long for their MOV of £35. Edit - Multi Labs gave me a proper quote for 50 pieces, have adjusted numbers above accordingly. If its the quartz tubes, Id be in for a couple if you want to run a coop. Just need to try / dismiss this idea, will chase it if its promising. Does the site quote tolerances?, 1mm walls is gonna take some watts to throw at it.
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