Mev
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Post by Mev on Jan 21, 2013 23:39:32 GMT
I drilled out the wick hole to same as the center hole so it can hold a insulator and decent size wick, works great.
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meeee
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Post by meeee on Jan 21, 2013 23:44:54 GMT
you could try these www.health-e-vape.co.uk/ss-maximus---wick-tubes-5-pcs-4034-p.asp I think they are meant to go around the top of the mesh with the wire wrapped over them and through the hole. I bought some but never got around to trying it. Oh dear just noticed they are out of stock, I may be able to dig one out for you if you want to try one Robby.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 21, 2013 23:45:15 GMT
I drilled out the wick hole to same as the center hole so it can hold a insulator and decent size wick, works great. Nice one!! sounds like the answer
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eyebrook
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Post by eyebrook on Jan 22, 2013 8:27:39 GMT
Do you have 4 or 5 mm of wick above the top turn of your coil robby ? This helps with that top hot spot sometimes, acts as a reservoir for the juice and helps to keep the coil wet
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 22, 2013 11:07:04 GMT
Do you have 4 or 5 mm of wick above the top turn of your coil robby ? This helps with that top hot spot sometimes, acts as a reservoir for the juice and helps to keep the coil wet Yes I do, but I get the hot spot between the centre post and the wick at the top, as if as soon as the wire touches the wick it has found a path to earth(after a while). Not every time. It is as if the oxidation is not strong enough at that point and the coil wire has turned into a fuse and pops. Hence my need to insulate the wick from the atomizer. My thinking being that if the wick is totally isolated electricaly from the atomizer, the hot spot should dissappear if that is the only point that the coil is contacting the wick.
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eyebrook
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Post by eyebrook on Jan 22, 2013 11:23:29 GMT
Push the wire in the direction of the turn between the wick and post so the gap is a little smaller, I use my finger nail. I think the hot spot is because of the air gap between the coil and post. And if you have a filler hole in the base of the coil chamber leave the bung/ screw out, put a bit of rolled up mesh in there if that dont work do your mega insulation thingy
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 22, 2013 11:39:42 GMT
Push the wire in the direction of the turn between the wick and post so the gap is a little smaller, I use my finger nail. I think the hot spot is because of the air gap between the coil and post. And if you have a filler hole in the base of the coil chamber leave the bung/ screw out, put a bit of rolled up mesh in there if that dont work do your mega insulation thingy I have done that and it helps until I have had a load of vapes on it, then the resistance of the coil slowly reduces until it pops at that point. Postie has been.....................and gone :-( lol. No heat shrink and no A4 sheet of mesh that I had ordered grrr.
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dave
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Post by dave on Jan 22, 2013 15:49:16 GMT
I've often had the same problem Robby - gennies can be extremely frustrating! I've got some ribbon Kanthal on order to try - apparently that helps because the contact with the mesh wick is spread out.
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 22, 2013 15:53:53 GMT
I've often had the same problem Robby - gennies can be extremely frustrating! I've got some ribbon Kanthal on order to try - apparently that helps because the contact with the mesh wick is spread out. I`ve never heard of ribbon Kanthal, sounds interesting though
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eyebrook
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Post by eyebrook on Jan 22, 2013 15:58:23 GMT
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Ron
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Post by Ron on Jan 22, 2013 16:15:54 GMT
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 22, 2013 16:25:24 GMT
SS wick shorts and what is happening when you get them. It`s fine as long as your oxidation is effective and your coil is not connecting electrically with the wick. If your wick is connecting electrically with the chassis and there is a point on your wick where the oxidation has worn away, the current path will only be in the red marked path, so it will effectively reduce the resistance of the coil depending how far along the coil the short is occuring. The current will take the path of least resistance to earth. This will cause the current to increase to a point where the top bit of the coil on the pic (the red bit) will get extremely hot and may just pop like a fuse. If your wick IS electrically insulated from the chassis, it will still be able to take one point where the coil is contacting the wick electrically because there is no easier path to earth. Does that make sense? lol
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 22, 2013 16:33:22 GMT
Got some on the way
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robby
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Post by robby on Jan 23, 2013 16:10:47 GMT
Got my 400 A4 SS mesh today, and a free A4 200 mesh sheet. No heat shrink yet though :-(
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Jockyspants
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Post by Jockyspants on Jan 30, 2013 20:45:39 GMT
Hi Robby, have you tried the cigarette paper trick...see youtube...it works for me always
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