Vamo blamo

[Deleted]

Jan 28, 2013 18:48:24 GMT robby said:

Check out Ebay for smoking tins, amazing number of tins available, some of them really old

www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Tobacciana-Smoking-/593/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=smoking+tin

been looking at an old State Express 555 tin ... :-)

going to buy a cheap one first to experiment with

[Deleted]

Jan 28, 2013 18:19:00 GMT Moon said:

Ash, if you're not doing anything with the buttons, can I put in a cheeky bid for them?

Took mine apart at the weekend to sand it down and one of my o-rings is all disfigured, which explains why the button was sat further into the body than the other.

I'll pay postage, obviously.

Hi Moon - gimme a few days to get a plan together ... I'm pretty handy with a dremel and I've not given up hope of being able to reverse the buttons and line them up on the outside of the mod. Sounds ambitious but as mentioned on this thread, I am a modeller. With a template based on the vamo housing, I might be able to re-create the holes. Question will be how I mount the board in reverse mode and keep it and the buttons in place.

If I can't swing it, they are yours ...

[Deleted]

Jan 28, 2013 18:01:55 GMT @colliwobbles said:

Jan 28, 2013 17:49:08 GMT @ashmal said:

nice one Colli ... might go for the single battery ... will need some space to work ...

something like this then ash
garry makes it look nice and simple

it does look simple ... famous last words ...

The Gripper board looks very similar to the Vamo one ... its unclear from the video where he soldered the button wires when I look at the vamo board. There are two blobs of solder next to the atty wires which I am assuming are the equivalents

[Moon]

Jan 28, 2013 18:57:28 GMT @ashmal said:

Jan 28, 2013 18:19:00 GMT Moon said:

Ash, if you're not doing anything with the buttons, can I put in a cheeky bid for them?

Took mine apart at the weekend to sand it down and one of my o-rings is all disfigured, which explains why the button was sat further into the body than the other.

I'll pay postage, obviously.

Hi Moon - gimme a few days to get a plan together ... I'm pretty handy with a dremel and I've not given up hope of being able to reverse the buttons and line them up on the outside of the mod. Sounds ambitious but as mentioned on this thread, I am a modeller. With a template based on the vamo housing, I might be able to re-create the holes. Question will be how I mount the board in reverse mode and keep it and the buttons in place.

If I can't swing it, they are yours ...

Nice one.

Worst case scenario is that I get another o ring, and I'm intrigued as to what you can make of the old one.

I look forward to the pics.

[Deleted]

found an old tin ... result. Time to get me tool kit out ...

[Deleted]

Right, so I made a template out of blue tack slapped it on the tin and cut around the shapes with a scalpel. Then drew around them. Not a bad first effort but first flaw in my plan is that despite I can fit the buttons, its going to be damned hard to keep the fitting consistent on both of em without them wiggling and coming out of alignment.

As far as the screen goes, there is a lip on the inner tube of the vamo which catches the screen and prevents it from falling out ...

So, internal it is and Moon ... PM me your addy, the buttons are yours feller

(Oh, just bought me second spheroid to cheer myself up ...)

[Deleted]

right kit has all arrived ... time to Frankenstein the Vamo!

Pics and frustration to follow ...

[Deleted]

it lives ...

[Deleted]

Ok modders. Need some assistance. It fires perfectly well from the Vamo main button. Problem is when I hit the new button, it shorts out and switches off. I attached 2 wires to two points next to the white out wire. I assumed these could be used since Mr Dibbley appears to have done the same thing on the LT tube he rehoused ... any thoughts ?



The button wires are to the left of the white cable

[robby]

Could you not go to the main Vamo switch and find out which two contacts give you a short when you hit the button? I think I would go there personally.

[Deleted]

its only when the new button is pushed that it cuts out, so I'm assuming that the points I've soldered are not the ones I should be using (can't seem to find any others) or I've soldered badly

[Deleted]

should I wire the button in between the white out wire and the 510 connection ?

[robby]

Feb 1, 2013 15:51:20 GMT @ashmal said:

should I wire the button in between the white out wire and the 510 connection ?

I wouldnt, I would find out the connections on the main switch and take two wires from there to your switch

[Deleted]

can't see anywhere logical to fix to ... there are 4 connectors around the main switch .. there is another board behind the switch which may hide the points ... failing this I might cannibalise an old ego switch and see if I can mount it through the case to actually depress onto the main button

[robby]

Feb 1, 2013 15:59:35 GMT @ashmal said:

can't see anywhere logical to fix to ... there are 4 connectors around the main switch .. there is another board behind the switch which may hide the points ... failing this I might cannibalise an old ego switch and see if I can mount it through the case to actually depress onto the main button

If you have a meter you should be able to find out which two contacts go short circuit when you press the fire button. That way you will just be replacing the original button with your own.