Another Vamo Getting Very Hot Near Top of Battery

[robby]

Apr 5, 2013 20:07:32 GMT giles said:

Pity. My vapourbreak ss vamo (bought in Jan) works fine, thought they'd got it solved.

There are a heck of a lot of Vamos out there now, bound to be a few roques
and the three I got there are all working fine too lol

[Moggy]

You and me have had this discussion before Rob I don't blame Min for sending a faulty product (I hardly expect him to test everything), its the after-sales and communication. Just checked my VB Account and the RMA request STILL shows as "awaiting confirmation" with no return slip, that was placed 10/3/13 a week or so AFTER I mailed him through the website about the fault AND sent the pics I also posted on here.

I would use them again for consumables, just not more 'expensive' items like devices etc.

[robby]

Apr 5, 2013 20:20:05 GMT Moggy said:

You and me have had this discussion before Rob I don't blame Min for sending a faulty product (I hardly expect him to test everything), its the after-sales and communication. Just checked my VB Account and the RMA request STILL shows as "awaiting confirmation" with no return slip, that was placed 10/3/13 a week or so AFTER I mailed him through the website about the fault AND sent the pics I also posted on here.

I would use them again for consumables, just not more 'expensive' items like devices etc.

What is your email addy , I`ll have another word

[hesta]

Hate to hear of problems, my ss vamo from vb works well, no heat, and has the updated hot spring. As already said, probably a faulty one slipped through the net, hope you get it sorted though!

[markm]

If its getting hot just under the battery you have a problem with the tube.
It sounds to me like the press fitted battery section is not connecting correctly
with the top half.
It can connect well enough to power the circuit board by hat won't need much juice, but
Once you ask for warp factor nine it builds the resistance. Which as we all know turns into heat.

[scs]

Apr 5, 2013 20:06:08 GMT robby said:

Have you taken the battery out to make sure it isnt getting hot? scs
Sorry if I am repeating stuff here, I havent been online for a while.

Hi robby,

The battery has been taken out numerous times, switched with 3 different 18650's, and tried with 2 different 18350's.  None of them get remotely warm.

Heat is there no matter how long I leave it.  Just tried it again and it's the same.

[robby]

Apr 5, 2013 21:02:24 GMT scs said:

Apr 5, 2013 20:06:08 GMT robby said:

Have you taken the battery out to make sure it isnt getting hot? scs
Sorry if I am repeating stuff here, I havent been online for a while.

Hi robby,

The battery has been taken out numerous times, switched with 3 different 18650's, and tried with 2 different 18350's.  None of them get remotely warm.

Heat is there no matter how long I leave it.  Just tried it again and it's the same.

There have been a couple like that I have seen, not sure anyone has come up with an answer anywhere, it must be eating up your batteries if it is producing all that heat

[scs]

Apr 5, 2013 21:00:09 GMT markm said:

If its getting hot just under the battery you have a problem with the tube.
It sounds to me like the press fitted battery section is not connecting correctly
with the top half.
It can connect well enough to power the circuit board by hat won't need much juice, but
Once you ask for warp factor nine it builds the resistance. Which as we all know turns into heat.

Hi mark,

That sounds like the ticket.  The insulation ring is slightly offset (where the positive of battery hits the contact) but it looks good enough.  The contact is centered too by the looks of it.

I can't seem to get the red insulation ring to try centering it.  Does the third section of the Vamo tube unscrew because I can't seem to unscrew that last bit?

[Deleted]

Scs.

sorry if I was wrong with the advice but I was just going on what I know, glad Robby and Mark were more helpful with a possible solution.

good luck

[robby]

Apr 5, 2013 22:03:02 GMT stamina said:

Scs.

sorry if I was wrong with the advice but I was just going on what I know, glad Robby and Mark were more helpful with a possible solution.

good luck

We are ALL learning here stamina, it never ends lol

[andy01424]

mine use to get hot no copper spring has washer in top all i did was stretch the spring[silver one] sorted!

[markm]

No I don't think it's the positive top connection, if that was getting hot enough to heat the tube then
You would also be getting it hot enough to melt the board inside.
I think it the actual body is not earthing correctly between the two halves.
Try bending the whole thing in the middle, just flex it so that the halves rub at the internal press fitting.
It my rub through any surface oxidisation that's causing the resistance.
I see similar issues on classic bike electrics.

[robby]

Apr 5, 2013 22:15:00 GMT markm said:

No I don't think it's the positive top connection, if that was getting hot enough to heat the tube then
You would also be getting it hot enough to melt the board inside.
I think it the actual body is not earthing correctly between the two halves.
Try bending the whole thing in the middle, just flex it so that the halves rub at the internal press fitting.
It my rub through any surface oxidisation that's causing the resistance.
I see similar issues on classic bike electrics.

could even be the top cap then, it kinda makes sense, you could put a meter across it

[markm]

Apr 5, 2013 22:23:02 GMT robby said:

Apr 5, 2013 22:15:00 GMT markm said:

No I don't think it's the positive top connection, if that was getting hot enough to heat the tube then
You would also be getting it hot enough to melt the board inside.
I think it the actual body is not earthing correctly between the two halves.
Try bending the whole thing in the middle, just flex it so that the halves rub at the internal press fitting.
It my rub through any surface oxidisation that's causing the resistance.
I see similar issues on classic bike electrics.

could even be the top cap then, it kinda makes sense, you could put a meter across it

Or a thermometer, find the hot spot and that's where you have a short.

[scs]

Morning y'all.

No problems at all stamina, we are all learning as robby said

markm: Ah right, it looked ok up there on further inspection, not great with the off-centred insulation ring, but doing a good enough job. I tried flexing the tube but there isn't any give at all. As the hot spot is located just above the middle crease I'm inclined to say it's not that though. As I mentioned earlier, the hot area 10 to 15mm south west of the button and around 3/4 inch in diameter, 10mm above that middle crease. Burnt my finger again this morning hehe. Will a finger thermometer do

robby: Does the top cap and middle section unscrew? Mine won't budge. I would need some guidance as to how to test the cap with my meter I'm afraid.

Thanks to everyone again for their input!