Re coiling the Kanger Protank - UPDATE 17 April.

[robby]

A detailed guide to re-coiling the Protank

Holding the Protank upside down, unscrew the tank off the base and put the tank to one side still upside down. There is no need to empty out the tank.

The base, after a quick wash and dry should look like this.

Remove the silicon seal just above the coil area.

Should look like this.

Loosen the coil head assembly. Now is a good time to remove the grooved post that is above the coil. It is a push fit. A little side to side movement will loosen it so it can be pulled out. It is more difficult to loosen if you leave it till after you have removed the coil head assembly.

Unscrew the coil head assembly and remove it from the base.

Remove the slotted centre post from the white rubber grommet. You can clearly see one of the coil wires which will connect to the centre post connection. The other wire is on the other side of the rubber grommet and in contact with the main part of the head assembly providing the other connection to the coil.

When the white rubber grommet has been removed you can see the two wires from the ends on the coil.

 Remove the coil and wick from top of the head assembly.

A new wick/coil, this one from Vaporbreak, you can of course make your own coil/wicks.

Having used these a lot, I know that I can get a 1.5 ohm coil by unwinding the coil till 4 turns of the coil remain.

Then push the two wires through the centre of the tubing.

Then replace the white rubber grommet pushing one wire through the centre.

Push the white rubber grommet back into the tube. One wire will come through the middle of the grommet and one will stay on the outside of the grommet connecting with the chassis. Make sure the coil is in a good position. If it is too high in the tube, pull gently on each wire until the coil has moved into a good position, do not pull too hard.

Push the centre post connector back into the middle of the white grommet. Notice the position of the two wires. Then nip off the excess wire so that as little as possible is showing. I use a set of nail clippers. They can get really close to where the wire needs to be trimmed.

The coil will now look something like this, after trimming off the wicks to the same length as the old coil had.

Screw the coil assembly back onto the base reasonably tightly so that it makes a good seal on the base.

Push the grooved tube back into the coil unit, replace the silicone cap and check for shorts either with a multimeter or your device if it has that facility. Screw the coil base assembly back onto the tank and let the liquid soak into the wick and you are good to go 


Much easier than the Nova really

[jeffc]

Hi Robby.

Great `precise` instructions, along with `top notch` photographs.

Job well done.


jeffc

[lenny59]

Fantastic detailed photos Robby

Makes life easy for anyone wanting to have a bash at rebuilding one of these

[Super-Shiny]

Nice one, should re-name header Evod & Protank

[blakey]

Cheers rob, saves me having to do it
I had Thursday pencilled in for a Blakey tutorial.
Nice job mate

[Perpetua]

Brilliant job Robby . . . would your thread be better on the Rebuildable or Tips/Tricks Board do you think? So it doesn't get lost in the general discussion.

[Adam78]

great guide Robby and very nice macro photography

[lynxkat]

Don't think I could do that, can I send you mine for repair?....what camera do you use for pics ?...there very good..

[punisher]

robby nice one fela you nearly an expert lol (nice camera work)

[Gasper]

An excellent guide, I personally prefer this type of tutorial as opposed to a video. Are you going to do one for the iclear 30?

[Deleted]

Brilliant Robby very very nice camera shots and detail.1 question the original head has a couple of loose wicks resting above the coil I presume to help wicking does this need to be done with your set up or is your wick 2mm or 3mm silica and does that stop any potential gurgling or flooding? Cheers mate

[robby]

Apr 15, 2013 20:37:11 GMT Perpetua said:

Brilliant job Robby . . . would your thread be better on the Rebuildable or Tips/Tricks Board do you think? So it doesn't get lost in the general discussion.

Whatever you think is best Perps, I enjoyed doing it, havent had my "good" camera out for at least a year since I got my multizoom camera. Nice to use it again and remind myself what is possible with it. Perpetua

[Super-Shiny]

Apr 15, 2013 21:08:53 GMT @tazmania441 said:

Brilliant Robby very very nice camera shots and detail.1 question the original head has a couple of loose wicks resting above the coil I presume to help wicking does this need to be done with your set up or is your wick 2mm or 3mm silica and does that stop any potential gurgling or flooding? Cheers mate

It vapes better without the extra strands on top but if they aint there the condensation can get to the battery easier, if you leave them out i would suggest leaving the Protank upside down overnight so the condensation leaks out of the drip tip.

[robby]

Apr 15, 2013 20:47:14 GMT lynxkat said:

Don't think I could do that, can I send you mine for repair?....what camera do you use for pics ?...there very good..

It`s a Sony 380 alpha, havent used it for ages, was fun getting acquainted with it again, thank you  @lynxcat

[robby]

Apr 15, 2013 21:08:53 GMT @tazmania441 said:

Brilliant Robby very very nice camera shots and detail.1 question the original head has a couple of loose wicks resting above the coil I presume to help wicking does this need to be done with your set up or is your wick 2mm or 3mm silica and does that stop any potential gurgling or flooding? Cheers mate

 I am not overkeen on the coolish vape from the Protank, I thought taking the wick bits off might improve the temperature a bit. The wick looks like 2mm on Vaporbreak`s coil and wick. I havent suffered with gurgling etc, cant see it starting really now. @tazmania441