New to mech mods - help needed!

[chris86]

Until yesterday I'd never tried using a mech mod. I don't build my own coils and hate fiddly tasks, so I decided that mechs just weren't for me. But then I had a moment of weakness, succumbed to shineyitus and bought myself 2 cheap mech mods - a Nemesis clone and a King clone. I thought that they would be a good way to try out mech mods without spending too much, and that I could always upgrade to better (i.e. not fake:D) devices if I found out that I liked them. 

Anyway, I received them yesterday and was quite impressed - they both look well made and feel solid in the hand. But they have been nothing but trouble ever since. I'm already starting to regret not sticking to vv mods, which I feel comfortable using. 

I'd be very grateful for advice but I should probably point out that I have the manual dexterity of a slug and the technical expertise of a goldfish, so please keep that in mind when making suggestions.

The Nemesis clone

The Nemesis clone was comparatively easy to set up - it only took me an hour and a half to work out how to fit it together and get it to fire. But it makes everything taste burnt. I usually use low resistance coil heads on my glassomizers and pre-made low resistance ceramic wicky thingies on my eBaron dripper, and they don't seem to be able to handle whatever voltage the Nemesis is putting out. If the mod was regulated, I could just turn the voltage down. But you can't do that on a mech mod, so everything gets frazzled.  

The King clone

The King clone is a giant pain in the @rse.  If I met whoever came up with the idea of reverse-threaded locking mechanisms, I would wack him on the head with a mech mod. Reverse threading seems to be specifically designed to wind up clumsy people like me, and I spend my time trying to get the bloody thing unstuck after turning it the wrong way. 

More importantly, hardly any of my devices actually fire on the King clone. The only atty that works is the eBaron dripper and I can only get my protanks and Davides to fire by using a 510 to 510 connector, which means that they hover about a centimeter above the top of the mod looking ridiculous. I'd be very grateful if anyone could suggest an easy fix for this.

[testdruif]

Hey chris86

I suspect that because you are using an unregulated mod (mechanical) you are pumping too much voltage through your atty. with VV/VW mods you can regulate the power which will prevent the coils from getting the full blast of the battery (in case of low resistance). what you now have is the full 4.2 volts running through your (1.2 ohm?) atty making it heat up too much.

For the king clone, does it have an adjustable firing pin? if so, it might be that the pin itself is not making contact with the positive connection of your atty. Try and push/pull up the positive post and then gently screw on your atty.

[chris86]

Dec 29, 2013 13:42:46 GMT testdruif said:

Hey chris86

I suspect that because you are using an unregulated mod (mechanical) you are pumping too much voltage through your atty. with VV/VW mods you can regulate the power which will prevent the coils from getting the full blast of the battery (in case of low resistance). what you now have is the full 4.2 volts running through your (1.2 ohm?) atty making it heat up too much.

For the king clone, does it have an adjustable firing pin? if so, it might be that the pin itself is not making contact with the positive connection of your atty. Try and push/pull up the positive post and then gently screw on your atty.

Thanks testdruif!   Do you reckon it's worth getting some higher resistance coil heads for my glassomizers and higher resistance pre-made ceramic setups for my eBaron dripper? (I'm thinking that 2.4 ohm coils should be able to handle 4.2 volts?) What I really don't understand is how people who build their own coils are able to use incredibly low resistances on mech mods without getting a horrible burnt taste all the time.

The King clone does have an adjustable firing pin, but I haven't yet worked out how to adjust it! I'm assuming that the positive post is the top part that makes contact with the atty (as opposed to the bottom part that connects with the battery), but I'm not sure how to lift it so that it makes contact.

Thanks again for your advice. 

[testdruif]

Hey chris86

Try out the linked table to see where you are ending up with your atty ohmage. You can see where you are in the "safe" or generally accepted range with your coils.

www.evcigarettes.com/safe-vaping-power-voltage-resistance-ohm-chart/

I wouldn't go with a 2.4 head for an unregulated mod. As you use the mod, the battery will drain and go from 4.2 to 3.4 and then it's time to recharge it. The best thing to do is find a resistance for the middle range of the voltage (3.6). THat way with a fresh battery you aren't terrible high up with your voltage and when the battery drains you'll hit the sweet spot for you and then gently fades away.

Check the top part of your king close, if you look inside of it you might see the positive connector and you can just push it up or maybe it's with a little screw you can unscrew etc
Or just check todd's review which probably will explain it all

[xs2man]

I know how my nemesis and hex work, so I assume your king would be similar.

The pin can be screwed in and out of the 510 connection. So best to unscrew it all the way, attach your atty, them screw it back in until it makes contact. Then you have to adjust the settings on the firing button at the bottom depending on desired throw of the switch and battery size.

Once you get the hang of that its pretty simple.

[Greg]

chris86 get yourself an evolv kick2 for your mod then you can set the wattage to your preference and fit any coil. This will give you a constant regulated power output much the same as an electronic mod until your battery needs recharging. I use the kick in my nemesis and so far it's faultless.

[ginge7289]

What attys are you using with them? the burnt taste is not down to the resistance of your coil, it is down to how quick your wick can fill itself back up. For instance, a kayfun @ 1.2 ohms with a decent 6mm wick in it could maintain 4.2v all day (juice dependent)

Obviously the more wick you have the more juice it can hold in it etc etc (Im not trying to teach you to suck eggs)

If your using a protank with a tiny piece of 2mm wick in it then the only answer would be to increase your resistance so it does not burn the juice so quickly. Hope that makes some sense???

[chris86]

Dec 29, 2013 17:37:12 GMT ginge7289 said:

What attys are you using with them? the burnt taste is not down to the resistance of your coil, it is down to how quick your wick can fill itself back up. For instance, a kayfun @ 1.2 ohms with a decent 6mm wick in it could maintain 4.2v all day (juice dependent)

Obviously the more wick you have the more juice it can hold in it etc etc (Im not trying to teach you to suck eggs)

If your using a protank with a tiny piece of 2mm wick in it then the only answer would be to increase your resistance so it does not burn the juice so quickly. Hope that makes some sense???

Thanks for the advice. I've mainly been using Protank 2's and Anyvape Davides with low resistance coil heads. I also tried my eBaron Dripper, which comes with pre-made coils and wicks in a ceramic. But I think that they all have too low a resistance to work well with a fresh battery on a mech, so I'll get myself some higher resistance coils and try them out. 

[ginge7289]

Dec 29, 2013 21:59:55 GMT chris86 said:

Dec 29, 2013 17:37:12 GMT ginge7289 said:

What attys are you using with them? the burnt taste is not down to the resistance of your coil, it is down to how quick your wick can fill itself back up. For instance, a kayfun @ 1.2 ohms with a decent 6mm wick in it could maintain 4.2v all day (juice dependent)

Obviously the more wick you have the more juice it can hold in it etc etc (Im not trying to teach you to suck eggs)

If your using a protank with a tiny piece of 2mm wick in it then the only answer would be to increase your resistance so it does not burn the juice so quickly. Hope that makes some sense???

Thanks for the advice. I've mainly been using Protank 2's and Anyvape Davides with low resistance coil heads. I also tried my eBaron Dripper, which comes with pre-made coils and wicks in a ceramic. But I think that they all have too low a resistance to work well with a fresh battery on a mech, so I'll get myself some higher resistance coils and try them out. 

The ebaron is rebuildable and will allow you to go pretty low ohms without causing any issues on a mech mod. I use my Dripper at around 1.4 ohms on a mech. Just make sure it has plenty of juice on the wick and it will be fine.

The only downfall with the ebaron is the lack of wick you use with it, it means you have to add juice quite often, every 3 - 5 toots......

I personally would not recommend a clearo with a mech mod (im sure plenty use them). Rebuildables are not that scary

[chris86]

Dec 29, 2013 23:00:16 GMT ginge7289 said:

Dec 29, 2013 21:59:55 GMT chris86 said:

Thanks for the advice. I've mainly been using Protank 2's and Anyvape Davides with low resistance coil heads. I also tried my eBaron Dripper, which comes with pre-made coils and wicks in a ceramic. But I think that they all have too low a resistance to work well with a fresh battery on a mech, so I'll get myself some higher resistance coils and try them out. 

The ebaron is rebuildable and will allow you to go pretty low ohms without causing any issues on a mech mod. I use my Dripper at around 1.4 ohms on a mech. Just make sure it has plenty of juice on the wick and it will be fine.

The only downfall with the ebaron is the lack of wick you use with it, it means you have to add juice quite often, every 3 - 5 toots......

I personally would not recommend a clearo with a mech mod (im sure plenty use them). Rebuildables are not that scary

Rebuildables aren't that scary if you find fiddling with things rewarding and have a bit of manual dexterity rather than clumsy sausage fingers. Unfortunately, neither of those apply to me and I know that I'd be tearing my hair out and throwing my atty at the wall within 5 minutes of tying to build a coil.   The reason that I shelled out for an ebaron as my first dripper is that it's a rebuildable that doesn't need rebuilding, 'cos you can buy pre-made ceramic coil wick thingies and just insert them (which even I can do without too much hassle).

The replacement coils I've got for it are 1.8 ohms, but I got a burnt taste when I tried it on my new mechs. I'll try saturating the wick with more juice when I try it again and will see if that works better. 

[a1laserboy]

If you are getting a burned taste, then it's not wicking well enough as others have said. If you already burned your wick, then you might struggle to get rid of the taste after.

A 1.8 ohm coil on a mech is fairly high and shouldn't be a problem. It does sound like a wicking problem.

Have a look at this calculator: calculator a 1.8 ohm coil at 4.2 volts (maximum you would get with a fresh battery) is only 9.8 watts. That's not really very high in the power scheme.



If you're struggling with the attys you are using at the moment on mechs, I'd say play with rebuilding them to see how you can get them going better, there is plenty of info out there on poo tube. If you're not able to, fair play, stick with vv/vw for a while until you understand for yourself whats going on.

There is no point trying to go too fast.