coils

[Greg]

Aug 11, 2014 19:41:33 GMT ronaldo said:

Aug 11, 2014 19:21:14 GMT Greg said:

Also if your referring to kayfun screws I find the replacement hex screws off ebay much easier to secure the coils with especially as the wire gets thicker. Cheap as chips off ebay chykensa or even cheaper if you want me to send you half a dozen free 

can I have a link to the screws please as I have 3 kayfuns now

ronaldo link posted above mate 

[Cousin Itt]

Aug 11, 2014 19:52:42 GMT Greg said:

Aug 11, 2014 19:41:33 GMT ronaldo said:

can I have a link to the screws please as I have 3 kayfuns now

ronaldo link posted above mate 

And another link that maybe handy for ronaldo

[dalealan]

This one might take some doing...



Jebus I have enough trouble getting a precoiled one to go in straight

[flavourtank]

Aug 11, 2014 20:10:00 GMT dalealan said:

This one might take some doing...



Jebus I have enough trouble getting a precoiled one to go in straight

Bet that goes well

[dalealan]

It would take me 14 months to do anything like that and it still wouldn't work hahaha and hen there's this...

[Greg]

Aug 11, 2014 20:23:33 GMT flavourtank said:

Aug 11, 2014 20:10:00 GMT dalealan said:

This one might take some doing...



Jebus I have enough trouble getting a precoiled one to go in straight

Bet that goes well

Come on enjay crack on 

[enjay]

Aug 11, 2014 15:31:10 GMT lee said:

enjay what wire are you using? I use 0.25mm (or 30 AWG) and your wire looks so much thicker?

First one, the twisted is 24G or 0.5mm, the second one is 20G or 0.8mm





Greg I wouldn't bother with something like that, looks fancy but I guarantee it vapes like crap!




flavourtank crack on, practice makes and all that. Also regarding throat hit, it's a case of getting the coil, wicking and air flow right then it's really smooth even down really low. Take that second pic I posted, that's 0.09ohms which in a mech is around 130 watts or so anyway but it's very smooth and full of flavour. Took a bit of practicing though

[VapingBad]

Aug 11, 2014 19:41:33 GMT ronaldo said:

Aug 11, 2014 19:21:14 GMT Greg said:

Also if your referring to kayfun screws I find the replacement hex screws off ebay much easier to secure the coils with especially as the wire gets thicker. Cheap as chips off ebay chykensa or even cheaper if you want me to send you half a dozen free 

can I have a link to the screws please as I have 3 kayfuns now

Don't buy socket head for Kayfun coil screws, those screws recently caused problems on a members kayfun that were hard to diagnose as the heads are too tall for some and the positive can cause a short on the bottom of the chimney after you test the coil and assemble the atty, stick to Phillips you don't need the extra torque or high current short circuits.

[chykensa]

Greg, thanks for your kind offer, but I have already changed my crosshead screws for hex ones which I got off eBay, although your link is much cheaper than I paid!
VapingBad - it's not so much the torque required as the profile of the screw - some of the Fasttech clones' screws are rounded at the base, and makes trapping the wires that much more difficult.
I do keep the coil on the former until it's fitted on the deck, but even then it seems to de-form once I heat it and squeeze with tweezers - perhpas that's the problem?

[VapingBad]

The problem is socket head screws chykensa, this was not my set up but putting those screws on caused an intermittent short circuit that, once I found the problem I sorted it in seconds adding na o'ring to raise the chimney. I am just concerned about safety, if you don't have good clearance between the head of the positive screw and the chimney section a short can occur once everything get hot and expands (the one I saw shorted cold), if you verify you have enough clearance then fine. And the short would be able to take all the current your battery/mod could provide it. I have not explained this well, I will draw a picture....



And you don't need the extra torque that a socket head screw provides a Philips can be tightened more than enough with a decent screwdriver without the risk of the short circuit.

[enjay]

Haven't checked what's been linked but the ones for the bolt company are perfect, fit really nicely in the kayfun, others may have wider heads I don't know but yeh, those ones are spot on

[VapingBad]

Aug 11, 2014 23:41:30 GMT enjay said:

Haven't checked what's been linked but the ones for the bolt company are perfect, fit really nicely in the kayfun, others may have wider heads I don't know but yeh, those ones are spot on

It's the height of the screw head and not the width that is the problem, the thing is there are so many different Kayfun clones out there you would need to check that you have enough clearance with you max diameter res wire under the screw.  It may only affect a few models, but unless you understand, can check & fix if needed (add o'ring to chimney, grind off some metal from bottom of chimney threaded section, ...) better to just not use these screws.

[enjay]

Aug 11, 2014 23:49:44 GMT VapingBad said:

Aug 11, 2014 23:41:30 GMT enjay said:

Haven't checked what's been linked but the ones for the bolt company are perfect, fit really nicely in the kayfun, others may have wider heads I don't know but yeh, those ones are spot on

It's the height of the screw head and not the width that is the problem, the thing is there are so many different Kayfun clones out there you would need to check that you have enough clearance with you max diameter res wire under the screw.  It may only affect a few models, but unless you understand, can check & fix if needed (add o'ring to chimney, grind off some metal from bottom of chimney threaded section, ...) better to just not use these screws.

That's a totally weird looking chimney you've drawn though, never seen anything like it. The kayfuns are normally just straight up to the cone top piece in which case that height thing isn't an issue.

[VapingBad]

Aug 12, 2014 0:30:28 GMT enjay said:

Aug 11, 2014 23:49:44 GMT VapingBad said:

It's the height of the screw head and not the width that is the problem, the thing is there are so many different Kayfun clones out there you would need to check that you have enough clearance with you max diameter res wire under the screw.  It may only affect a few models, but unless you understand, can check & fix if needed (add o'ring to chimney, grind off some metal from bottom of chimney threaded section, ...) better to just not use these screws.

That's a totally weird looking chimney you've drawn though, never seen anything like it. The kayfuns are normally just straight up to the cone top piece in which case that height thing isn't an issue.

weird looking chimney ??? how

The chimney/cone (light blue) screws into the chamber (dark blue) on every kayfun I have seen and not on the top of the chamber.  Remember that these parts are not this close in every Kayfun clone, but they are in some even if you have not seen it for your self.

The red in the drawing is the parts that are positive.
The light blue at the bottom is the base, deck and negative post, all one piece of metal (kayfun light/Russian)
The dark blue is the chamber

The short is from the top of the positive screw (if using screw with a taller head than the designer expected) to the bottom of the chimney/cone.

I know the drawing was rough, but I thought it was clear enough if you have seen a Kayfun stripped down and reassembled, would a neater drawing help?

[enjay]

Aug 12, 2014 0:47:03 GMT VapingBad said:

Aug 12, 2014 0:30:28 GMT enjay said:

That's a totally weird looking chimney you've drawn though, never seen anything like it. The kayfuns are normally just straight up to the cone top piece in which case that height thing isn't an issue.

weird looking chimney ??? how

The chimney/cone (light blue) screws into the chamber (dark blue) on every kayfun I have seen and not on the top of the chamber.  Remember that these parts are not this close in every Kayfun clone, but they are in some even if you have not seen it for your self.

The red in the drawing is the parts that are positive.
The light blue at the bottom is the base, deck and negative post, all one piece of metal (kayfun light/Russian)
The dark blue is the chamber

The short is from the top of the positive screw (if using screw with a taller head than the designer expected) to the bottom of the chimney/cone.

I know the drawing was rough, but I thought it was clear enough if you have seen a Kayfun stripped down and reassembled, would a neater drawing help?

Weird cause your artistic skills are lacking and it looked wrong last time I checked lol but I see now what you';re on about, crappy clones, should get the genuine like me! Elitist git hahahha