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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2014 20:50:38 GMT
Well after using the P3 for over 3 weeks now all I can say is that I am exceedingly underwhelmed with it. Okay it may be built like a brick sh**house but the electronics are Battery Eaters. New AW IMR batteries have an IQ of 15 and are Bad. If I use any of the Boost levels then as soon as my battery life gets below 43% the dammed things goes to empty and it is the only 18650 mod I have ever had that I have to carry at least 2 fully charged spare batteries around with me just to get me through an afternoon. Many of the batteries that I have in the P3 when they register Empty, put into another e-cig and they register fully charged. I am now having to go through all the 18650 batteries that I have and mark those that last more than a couple of hours and keep those aside to use in the P3. Ridiculous! Oh well, on the hunt for a VW that is more reliable. What's the build your using and watts/volts to use a boost that eats a 650 so quick? And what battery
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VE Jason
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Post by VE Jason on Nov 22, 2014 21:00:02 GMT
Sounds like a connection issue to me lobeydosser or a faulty PCB - send me an email with as much info as possible and we can take it from there. I can only go off the feedback received up to now and using one myself since they arrived and I've not had any similar issues - so something must be wrong somewhere. You posted initially that battery life was far better than expected, so its a case of finding out what's happened/changed since - if anything. Any error codes?
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lobeydosser
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Post by lobeydosser on Nov 23, 2014 0:03:01 GMT
I am vaping at 7.4W and using an Aspire Nautilus Tank.
My reasoning for this tank is that because the P3 has a sprung loaded central contact, I didn't want to chance any excess liquid leaking into the electronics. I have not used any other atty on it. However I notice that despite my resistance being just 1.8ohms, the P3 never reads it at that and will register anything from 1.9 to 2.2, depending on what mood it is in.
One thing I have noticed is that when the P3 shows what I think is a perfectly good and fully charged battery as empty, that same battery, taken out and put on charge, will register fully charged within 20 minutes.
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300
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Post by 300 on Nov 23, 2014 1:34:02 GMT
I am vaping at 7.4W and using an Aspire Nautilus Tank. My reasoning for this tank is that because the P3 has a sprung loaded central contact, I didn't want to chance any excess liquid leaking into the electronics. I have not used any other atty on it. However I notice that despite my resistance being just 1.8ohms, the P3 never reads it at that and will register anything from 1.9 to 2.2, depending on what mood it is in. One thing I have noticed is that when the P3 shows what I think is a perfectly good and fully charged battery as empty, that same battery, taken out and put on charge, will register fully charged within 20 minutes. Something's definately not right with yours, i've used 2 x Efest 18500's today from 06:00 to 01:30, 1.3ohm coil at 14W & second battery is still showing 38%. I'm no chain vaper but it's my day off & the P3 is never out of my hand, similar / slightly better performance from my AW 18500's too.
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 23, 2014 1:39:33 GMT
@lobeydoser something's wrong with yours bud. I use 1 x 18650 a day 12watts 1.3 coil. I've never had better battery life. Hopefully you can get it sorted, the IQ numbers you're getting sound like its a connection issue but I'm sure digging deeper will sort u out. Good luck mate
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lobeydosser
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Post by lobeydosser on Nov 23, 2014 12:33:06 GMT
Jason got in touch with me by email and we have run some tests and he has decided that I will need to return the P3 to him for further investigation.
I will update this topic when I get it back.
As my new DIY Vaping Shed arrives tomorrow I will be too busy with that to mourn the loss of my P3 for a while!
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clairea
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Post by clairea on Nov 23, 2014 17:47:53 GMT
I am vaping at 7.4W and using an Aspire Nautilus Tank. My reasoning for this tank is that because the P3 has a sprung loaded central contact, I didn't want to chance any excess liquid leaking into the electronics. I have not used any other atty on it. However I notice that despite my resistance being just 1.8ohms, the P3 never reads it at that and will register anything from 1.9 to 2.2, depending on what mood it is in. One thing I have noticed is that when the P3 shows what I think is a perfectly good and fully charged battery as empty, that same battery, taken out and put on charge, will register fully charged within 20 minutes. Same as me. Snap
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 7:38:20 GMT
A friend has the P3 and was disheartened with the sporadic readings and randomly shutting down with a low % so contacted Provape and they told him to clean EVERY thread on the P3..........since then it's been perfect........
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Nov 26, 2014 9:42:53 GMT
A friend has the P3 and was disheartened with the sporadic readings and randomly shutting down with a low % so contacted Provape and they told him to clean EVERY thread on the P3..........since then it's been perfect........ My threads had quite a bit of gunk on when i got it. Gave 'every thread' a good ole scrubbing before use and mines been just stellar. Could be something in this... thanks @tazmania441
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 26, 2014 10:46:00 GMT
A friend has the P3 and was disheartened with the sporadic readings and randomly shutting down with a low % so contacted Provape and they told him to clean EVERY thread on the P3..........since then it's been perfect........ My threads had quite a bit of gunk on when i got it. Gave 'every thread' a good ole scrubbing before use and mines been just stellar. Could be something in this... thanks @tazmania441 That is the no.1 cause of poor performance- them threads need to be squeaky clean to enable the conductivity needed for the IQ to work properly. It was also the reason why the V1 & V2 Provaris flashed for a depleted battery when it was far from depleted. Clean the threads on the battery cap- clean the threads on the tube + extensions - clean the battery cap spring + housing and check all for gunk whenever you change batteries. Once every couple of weeks look inside the tube at the terminal that the positive of the battery connects to and check that it's still clean. Also check the 510 threads and 510 contact for grime or juice. Make sure that the battery cap screws all the way down- if the battery is too long and the cap doesn't seat all the way then there won't be a good contact. When everything is cleaned make sure you have no cleaning solution residue left behind as this can also mess with conductivity. Once you have it squeeky clean then it's a doddle to stay on top of it, just check whenever you change batteries.
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lobeydosser
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Post by lobeydosser on Nov 26, 2014 12:59:40 GMT
People who buy Provari's, do so because they think they are robust, dependable and long lasting units and now that they have finally brought out a Vari Wattage model, folks, like myself, are falling over themselves to get hold of one.
However, although we only wanted a VW, they do appear to have gone overboard with all sorts of unnecessary additions which have rather undercut the fundamental perception of what people are looking for in a Provari.
Between having to replace the spring every 6 months and this need to keep everything super clean, they have turned an e-cig into a chore. Not what I want from a very expensive mod.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 26, 2014 13:06:20 GMT
People who buy Provari's, do so because they think they are robust, dependable and long lasting units and now that they have finally brought out a Vari Wattage model, folks, like myself, are falling over themselves to get hold of one. However, although we only wanted a VW, they do appear to have gone overboard with all sorts of unnecessary additions which have rather undercut the fundamental perception of what people are looking for in a Provari. Between having to replace the spring every 6 months and this need to keep everything super clean, they have turned an e-cig into a chore. Not what I want from a very expensive mod. To be fair mate, all mods suffer the same problem and all should be kept clean around the threads and contact points to ensure proper conductivity. I find the very same with a kicked nemesis, the kick will start stuttering showing a depleted battery and when I check all the threads they're gunked up. Clean them and normal service resumes.
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lobeydosser
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Post by lobeydosser on Nov 26, 2014 13:26:08 GMT
Well blakey, this is not a problem I have found with any other mod apart from the contact point between the atty and the mod. Obviously juice can contaminate this area but now that I am using an Aspire Nautilus, any leaking e-juice problem has been eliminated. Now, knowing there is a problem with the P3 and its threads, I will now start cleaning all the threads of the darn thing more religiously, but to me, contamination of threads is basically caused by grease and dirt and I cannot for the life of me see why unscrewing a tube, popping in a battery and then screwing the tube in again would attract any grease and dirt. But hey-ho, anything to keep it performing.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Nov 26, 2014 13:32:37 GMT
Well blakey, this is not a problem I have found with any other mod apart from the contact point between the atty and the mod. Obviously juice can contaminate this area but now that I am using an Aspire Nautilus, any leaking e-juice problem has been eliminated. Now, knowing there is a problem with the P3 and its threads, I will now start cleaning all the threads of the darn thing more religiously, but to me, contamination of threads is basically caused by grease and dirt and I cannot for the life of me see why unscrewing a tube, popping in a battery and then screwing the tube in again would attract any grease and dirt. But hey-ho, anything to keep it performing. LOL I've no idea how the poxy stuff gets in there either But it does I don't have a mod where the threads don't get gunked up though normal use- even the billet box succumbs to it
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clairea
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Post by clairea on Nov 26, 2014 13:37:02 GMT
Provari told me it was a problem with the end cap and its that which needs replacing, and even though I have only had this for 3 weeks they expected me to buy a new end cap. Jason ae vapeescape is going to have a look at my provari for me and replace it if needs be much rather go back to Jason than provape
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