DNA40 - Temp Control - Nickel Builds

[robby]

Jan 21, 2015 18:49:24 GMT @scooby said:

Jan 21, 2015 16:44:16 GMT robby said:

The temp adjustment has to have control otherwise it`s just a VW mod

Yes, that's exactly what it is, a VW device with temperature protection/control

[Deleted]

Jan 21, 2015 19:19:27 GMT robby said:

Jan 21, 2015 18:49:24 GMT @scooby said:

Yes, that's exactly what it is, a VW device with temperature protection/control

[Deleted]

Jan 21, 2015 16:51:08 GMT @letsavit said:

Jan 21, 2015 6:23:56 GMT @scooby said:

Cheers robby I'll have a play, been vaping my SquapeR set to 25w, that suits the coil I've built, the temp is set to 380F (just because it's below 410f, the fire point of cotton) and the vape is great. I notice that after the initial preheat that the temp reaches a max of 350-360f through the draw with a constant 25w power, ie no temperature limiting.

I've now set the temp to 360f and the max 40w so as to allow temp limiting to control the wattage. I'll leave it at that and see how I get on.

Cool, glad youre trying it......  

Well i did try @letsavit and I have to say that the way I vape it was detrimental. I could give you the reasons, and try to explain why I think it happened, but I guess we'd still agree to disagree 

So I'm back to setting the watts to match the wattage I build a coil to, and the temp to a temp that will  avoid burning my wick, and not overheat the juice so I don't inhale any nasties.

[VapingBad]

I got a better Origenny clone this week and not surprisingly that the effect of an extra 0.02 - 0.04 ohm on the atty from the previous one's poor internal connections shifted the temp so I would have the limit at 400 F vs 420 F on the better one with the same 0.12 ohm build. The DNA40 is very clever and without the fine tuning feature it should more like 50 - 85 F out just going by the cold resistance alone.

Maths

0.12 ohm @ 400 F should be 0.262 ohm

add 0.02 then the coil would be 0.282 ohm with the mod expecting 0.14 ohms & 0.282 ohm for a 0.14 ohm coil would equate to 350 F
or
add 0.04 then the coil would be 0.302 ohm with the mod expecting 0.16 ohms & 0.302 ohm for a 0.16 ohm coil would equate to 315 F

[Deleted]

VapingBad I liked above athough you lost me somewhere near the middle....

Update from me, new wire from steath .25mm so my single coils are .4ohms. Now all 3no. DNA40,s are reading spot on....so is it the new wire or higher resistance now that has resolved my reading of ohms wrong, not connections......

Anyway, happy to have some constant back.

[VapingBad]

Jan 23, 2015 1:48:39 GMT @letsavit said:

VapingBad I liked above athough you lost me somewhere near the middle....

Update from me, new wire from steath .25mm so my single coils are .4ohms. Now all 3no. DNA40,s are reading spot on....so is it the new wire or higher resistance now that has resolved my reading of ohms wrong, not connections......

Anyway, happy to have some constant back.

It just means that the bad connection should have knocked the temp sensing out by far more than it did, clever stuff going on in the chip firmware programming.

Higher resistance coils will be a little less sensitive to connection issues and thicker wire is less likely to move then short between loops (happens on thin kanthal sometimes to), but not much and would guess the you are getting at making nickel coils, all your connections are clean etc.

[Deleted]

Jan 23, 2015 1:57:31 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 23, 2015 1:48:39 GMT @letsavit said:

VapingBad I liked above athough you lost me somewhere near the middle....

Update from me, new wire from steath .25mm so my single coils are .4ohms. Now all 3no. DNA40,s are reading spot on....so is it the new wire or higher resistance now that has resolved my reading of ohms wrong, not connections......

Anyway, happy to have some constant back.

It just means that the bad connection should have knocked the temp sensing out by far more than it did, clever stuff going on in the chip firmware programming.

Higher resistance coils will be a little less sensitive to connection issues and thicker wire is less likely to move then short between loops (happens on thin kanthal sometimes to), but not much and would guess the you are getting at making nickel coils, all your connections are clean etc.

So it's programmed to forgive.......sometimes.... 


All clean. 2no. Kayfun lites, coils the same, let's say average...! wire/ohms changed from .3mm - 0.2ohms to .25 - 0.4ohms. Ohm reader/flask/shark and ZNA all reading near as damm it.....was having to clamp the 510 right down before to get close to a .02 for the devices, all over reading....new wire tempered? can't see myself doing any twisted etc...coiling is one part of this hobby I don't enjoy......just want to get a constant single set up going. You might be right, my clones/skills play up around .02 , 0.4ohms the board forgives me....either way for now Im thinking bin old wire and stick with this... 


My lazy atty still plays me up though....kanger pre made coils .18, happy if I get them read around 2.2ohms 

[VapingBad]

Jan 23, 2015 2:16:34 GMT @letsavit said:

Jan 23, 2015 1:57:31 GMT VapingBad said:

It just means that the bad connection should have knocked the temp sensing out by far more than it did, clever stuff going on in the chip firmware programming.

Higher resistance coils will be a little less sensitive to connection issues and thicker wire is less likely to move then short between loops (happens on thin kanthal sometimes to), but not much and would guess the you are getting at making nickel coils, all your connections are clean etc.

So it's programmed to forgive.......sometimes.... 


All clean. 2no. Kayfun lites, coils the same, let's say average...! wire/ohms changed from .3mm - 0.2ohms to .25 - 0.4ohms. Ohm reader/flask/shark and ZNA all reading near as damm it.....was having to clamp the 510 right down before to get close to a .02 for the devices, all over reading....new wire tempered? can't see myself doing any twisted etc...coiling is one part of this hobby I don't enjoy......just want to get a constant single set up going. You might be right, my clones/skills play up around .02 , 0.4ohms the board forgives me....either way for now Im thinking bin old wire and stick with this... 


My lazy atty still plays me up though....kanger pre made coils .18, happy if I get them read around 2.2ohms 

Programmed to learn.


Tightening down the 510 could be pushing the centre pin in, I had it with the Origenny and realised that I had to pack the threads between the deck and body with thick foil to fix.  Don't make sense for a kf lite though unless the centre pin has sheered, which it obviously hasn't and pushing up the centre pin would loosen the +ve.   What was the wire that gave your the problems?

[Get Off My Cloud]

Well got my HANA DNA40 on the way and some 28AGW Ni200.
Sounds like coiling is a bit temperamental with this wire, should be fun considering i'm new to coiling with regular Kanthal .
Really looking forward to trying it out though, i don't like a hot vape but i do like long hard draws so this sounds like i can get the draw i really want at the temperature i want.

[VapingBad]

Jan 23, 2015 2:33:18 GMT Get Off My Cloud said:

Well got my HANA DNA40 on the way and some 28AGW Ni200.
Sounds like coiling is a bit temperamental with this wire, should be fun considering i'm new to coiling with regular Kanthal .
Really looking forward to trying it out though, i don't like a hot vape but i do like long hard draws so this sounds like i can get the draw i really want at the temperature i want.

I read a post on another forum today with a guy doing his first dripper build with nickel and said it was easier than kanthal, it's just a bit different not harder, but poor connections bite you. Though some builds like dual coils need thin wire.

Don't have you coils tightly squeezed together, coil them like that if you prefer, but stretch them out after so they are not touching and make sure the connections are good and tight.

[Deleted]

Jan 23, 2015 2:28:54 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 23, 2015 2:16:34 GMT @letsavit said:

So it's programmed to forgive.......sometimes.... 


All clean. 2no. Kayfun lites, coils the same, let's say average...! wire/ohms changed from .3mm - 0.2ohms to .25 - 0.4ohms. Ohm reader/flask/shark and ZNA all reading near as damm it.....was having to clamp the 510 right down before to get close to a .02 for the devices, all over reading....new wire tempered? can't see myself doing any twisted etc...coiling is one part of this hobby I don't enjoy......just want to get a constant single set up going. You might be right, my clones/skills play up around .02 , 0.4ohms the board forgives me....either way for now Im thinking bin old wire and stick with this... 


My lazy atty still plays me up though....kanger pre made coils .18, happy if I get them read around 2.2ohms 

Programmed to learn.


Tightening down the 510 could be pushing the centre pin in, I had it with the Origenny and realised that I had to pack the threads between the deck and body with thick foil to fix.  Don't make sense for a kf lite though unless the centre pin has sheered, which it obviously hasn't and pushing up the centre pin would loosen the +ve.   What was the wire that gave your the problems?

.3 the larger from mesh was giving me the problems....the tempered .25 im getting a better connection for some reason without worrying about the centre pin? maybe my boards have finally learned my average coils are coming...! 

Just tried it again, .39 - .39 & .40.  Just wasn't doing that before. 

[Deleted]

Jan 23, 2015 2:33:18 GMT Get Off My Cloud said:

Well got my HANA DNA40 on the way and some 28AGW Ni200.
Sounds like coiling is a bit temperamental with this wire, should be fun considering i'm new to coiling with regular Kanthal .
Really looking forward to trying it out though, i don't like a hot vape but i do like long hard draws so this sounds like i can get the draw i really want at the temperature i want.

Don't worry mate, it was all new to me at the same time....still trying to sort ni200 now...ha ha.  

Good connections and good connections is the only advice i can give......

[Greigster]

I have just ordered some 0.3mm ni200 from vape mesh. Is the quality of their nickel not that good?

[Deleted]

Jan 23, 2015 4:25:40 GMT Greigster said:

I have just ordered some 0.3mm ni200 from vape mesh. Is the quality of their nickel not that good?

its worked fine, I have just had issues lately with the DNA not reading the correct ohms from the start. Not sure if it's the wire or the higher ohms I'm now targeting than has improved it for my last two builds. I wouldn't worry too much as I purchased it quite a while ago (was a little short of supply going on then as well) , they seem to have a good rep....maybe I just lucked out and done some decent coils and connections this time....

[Deleted]

Good to see your getting some stability now @letsavit

I've got some tempered and annealed wire from Stealth Vape. I've been using some from a supplier in the States, same one that VapingBad uses and wanted to do a comparison as Evolv recommend tempered wire.

The annealed wire has about the same malleability as the wire I have, the tempered is 'stiffer' and has about the same spring in it as Kanthal.

All the wire I have used so far, either bought, or samples from VB and Tom have been very soft so assume it's annealed.

Can't see there would be any difference electrically, but arguably the physical properties of the tempered wire make it easier to work with, there's less chance of shearing when tightening post screws etc.