Long Body ZNA50 Focalecig £39-40 IN STOCK AGAIN

[-V-]

Dec 2, 2014 10:32:14 GMT -V- said:

Dec 2, 2014 10:13:51 GMT robby said:

Can you use it at all mate? Any opinions yet?

Yes I can use it mate...just don't like the gap on the bottom cap, I'm a bit of a funny sod like that, even clones I want thinks to be flush fitting...

As for what I think of it...
Well it's a lot lighter than the Cloupor ZNA 50 I had
The ohms are running lower than they should do
When I press the fire button the Volts jump around, they start off low then go up to what they should be...lol..
So instead of a Hot boost it's a cold boost.....14,5W hit the fire button and it goes from 2.6V to 5V then stable at 5.1 to 5.2 V.....
The 5 click lock is more like 7 sometimes 8 clicks same for unlock...

Update after 24 hours;

The ohms are a little low in reading but only by 0.1 ohm
I feel for a split second it is reading the atty on top, so that is why it jumps from low to then the correct Volts, it's only a split second and then it's the correct Volts showing
We are used to doing the 5 click on and off as fast as we can, this chip is more of a gentleman chip, a nice 5 click on or off at nice and slow and it does it every time....

The chip for me is good, it's on par with the Evolv, i don't have any testing stuff, so have to go on vape quility, flavour, vapour, warmness and so on, and this is just fine....
I also don't sub ohm vape, I don't do drippers...
But i will be getting my Atlantas soon so look forward to testing this is around 40 to 50 Ws.....

As long as Doris's staff send me out the correct bottom cap with spring I am over the moon with this ZNA 50 full body mod....

[robby]

Good to hear it -V-, take a look Foclecig, a great review

[-V-]

Dec 3, 2014 16:20:35 GMT robby said:

Good to hear it -V-, take a look Foclecig, a great review

Looks like for the time being Foclecig has pulled it from the site, i think that is probably due to my issue with the bottom cap and no spring.
I am sure once she sorts that part out it will be back up for sale again.

I do hope so as this really is a good device and I have not seen it for sale anywhere else, as in this version which is the long full body in 18650
Also the fire button is great, you can fire it on the top part of the rounded part of the button just like on the real one...

[Deleted]

Dec 2, 2014 2:45:53 GMT Foclecig said:

Hey Robby, this is the same one you purchased at the first begining at our parent site.

Hi doris

would just like to say I have had 3 mods from you now, thank you for the good service.

the sting ray I got yesterday is stunning. 

[Deleted]

Dec 2, 2014 10:32:14 GMT -V- said:

Dec 2, 2014 10:13:51 GMT robby said:

Can you use it at all mate? Any opinions yet?

Yes I can use it mate...just don't like the gap on the bottom cap, I'm a bit of a funny sod like that, even clones I want thinks to be flush fitting...

As for what I think of it...
Well it's a lot lighter than the Cloupor ZNA 50 I had
The ohms are running lower than they should do
When I press the fire button the Volts jump around, they start off low then go up to what they should be...lol..
So instead of a Hot boost it's a cold boost.....14,5W hit the fire button and it goes from 2.6V to 5V then stable at 5.1 to 5.2 V.....
The 5 click lock is more like 7 sometimes 8 clicks same for unlock...

The quality is not on par with the Cloupor ZNA 50 I got, although don't get me wrong, the quality is ok on this one, it was just I was very impressed with the Cloupor ZNA 50 mode i got..
I think I will be a lot happier once I get a new bottom cap with spring ,,,lol...

My plan is..::..
Swap this chip with the DNA 40 chip
I have one with me now, I have seen over on UK V a guy who swapped his Cloupor ZNA 50 to the DNA 40 chip, so I know what's what, it's just 3 wires, 2 for the atty and one for the positive battery...
BUT the main and important thing is that this clone buttons, Fire, Up , Down have to be exactly the same place to match the button on the DNA 40 chip....otherwise you're screwed...lol...

Robby, if you're up for it, you can go first and do full pictures and info on how it went

I'll go second..... Tease-smiley

Please please do a guide......! 

[-V-]

robby

One thing I am not sure of as I don't have the DNA 40 board in my hand yet, is if the button will line up with the onboard buttons on the DNA 40 board
Could you check by holding the DNA 40 board with the buttons up down and fire buttons facing toward the same buttons on the ZNA to see if they look like they do line up?

If they don't then that's that, can't be done.....

[robby]

Dec 4, 2014 14:07:05 GMT -V- said:

robby

One thing I am not sure of as I don't have the DNA 40 board in my hand yet, is if the button will line up with the onboard buttons on the DNA 40 board
Could you check by holding the DNA 40 board with the buttons up down and fire buttons facing toward the same buttons on the ZNA to see if they look like they do line up?

If they don't then that's that, can't be done.....

I would if I could, but my lad`s pinched it, I`ll let you know when I get it back lol. He doesn`t live with me now.

[robby]

I can however tell you that the buttons are in exactly the same postion as a DNA30 clone board I have here -V-

[-V-]

Dec 4, 2014 14:17:18 GMT robby said:

I can however tell you that the buttons are in exactly the same postion as a DNA30 clone board I have here -V-

That's great news, thanks robby

As the ZNA uses the on board button on the DNA chip this was the main important thing.
With only 3 wires to connect to the board is should be easyish
However, I can't get the bloody back plate off yet...
I've only tried carefully as at the moment I don't want to damage the chip inside by pressing too much as I don't have my DNA 40 chip with me yet...be Monday

Then I can get this back plate off, unsolder the 3 wires, take out the board and get in the DNA 4o board and do all the messing around to get it in place just right...

[VapingBad]

Dec 4, 2014 15:15:19 GMT -V- said:

Dec 4, 2014 14:17:18 GMT robby said:

I can however tell you that the buttons are in exactly the same postion as a DNA30 clone board I have here -V-

That's great news, thanks robby

As the ZNA uses the on board button on the DNA chip this was the main important thing.
With only 3 wires to connect to the board is should be easyish
However, I can't get the bloody back plate off yet...
I've only tried carefully as at the moment I don't want to damage the chip inside by pressing too much as I don't have my DNA 40 chip with me yet...be Monday

Then I can get this back plate off, unsolder the 3 wires, take out the board and get in the DNA 4o board and do all the messing around to get it in place just right...

You could warm it in hot water or a low oven, at least that would make it less likely to snap a lug.  I think lex said to get an flat L shaped hook or hocks in the hole you can see the inductor (big square grey metal component) and pull.

[-V-]

Ok first part done.
As in the back plate off.

A little different than I thought it would have been, only 2 wires one red and one white, which is one for the positive battery and then the atty and then one more wire which is the B- on the chip which is soldered onto the body of the ZNA
So 3 wires to sort out.
The white one is right at the top so not easy to see but it is there....
Just need to get me soldering iron sorted out...

The black part on the first picture is just a bit of black tape I placed there for a second, don't worry about that...lol...










More pictures once I get the old board out and the new one in...
The soldering should be easy, just getting it to all fit in and sit right so the 3 buttons work correctly and the back plate back on...

[-V-]

Thanks to the help from a guy on UKV, i think I am ready to solder:
Looking at the DNA 40 data sheet the pin numbers below should be correct:

Pin # 11 the wire to the body
Pin # 10 the red wire in the picture which is B +
Pin # 7 the white wire in the picture which is the OUT

Any tips on soldering these wires, this is going to be the first time for me doing this.
I've watched many Youtube videos..lol...

[robby]

Let the soldering iron fully heat up, use a damp rag to wipe the crap off the tip and apply a touch of solder to the tip. Make sure you have a good mechanical joint were the wire goes through the hole in the board. Apply the tip of the soldering iron to the joint, contacting the wire and the copper strip, hold the solder against the joint of the wire and the hole. wait for it to melt and flow and then withdraw the solder and the iron. Let it cool by itself and Bob`s your uncle

[-V-]

Ok, next stage done, which was get out the old board.
Now I just need the new DNA 40 board, should have that tomorrow, then connect 3 wires, then get it all sat in nicely...lol...
I've been test soldering to the old board with wires, not as easy as it looks on Youtube but i did do it...

Pictures to follow over the next day or so....depending when I get around to doing the next stage,,,,

[robby]

Nice one -V-, keep the tip of the soldering iron clean before you start soldering and you`ll be fine