Long Body ZNA50 Focalecig £39-40 IN STOCK AGAIN

[-V-]

Dec 7, 2014 11:13:21 GMT robby said:

Nice one -V-, keep the tip of the soldering iron clean before you start soldering and you`ll be fine

Yes, forgot about that part and just read your other post about using a damp rag, off to get that ready now so I don't forget...

Mt ETF (extended time of finish) will be by Wednesday evening.....it will be between Monday-Wednesday I will have it all done as I have to do it between work and family time...

[-V-]

Ok, a few pictures to where I am at now:













From looking at the above board the fire button sticks out a bit more than on the Evolv boards, i think i read somewhere else a guy put a drop of super glue on the button to make it a little higher, I don't fancy doing that so going to see how it is as standard...
If it does need something a little extra to get this fire button to click good anyone got any ideas?...maybe a small bit of tape on the button on the mod to raise the contact a little.....

[robby]

The tape sounds like a good idea as long as it`s a good stable base

[stax]

I just finish same thing of a changing the board with DNA40 on zna. Few tips:
1. Use something to isolate the board from the body - important
2. use glue gun for the board to keep it push to the buttons.If you don't have one - a thin cardboard can do the same
3. the DNA40 have bigger chip on back so the black cap will need some drilling to make it fit
4. better wires will be needed as 20AWG will do (18AWG is too thick to fit in the holes if tinned with solder)

Putting all together is the tricky part. Mind that the DNA40's buttons are smaller , but if you push the board close enough it shouldn't be a problem with protruding them enough.

If can be of any help just tag me guys and will help as much as I can.
Cheers

[VapingBad]

Dec 7, 2014 18:18:05 GMT stax said:

I just finish same thing of a changing the board with DNA40 on zna. Few tips:
1. Use something to isolate the board from the body - important
2. use glue gun for the board to keep it push to the buttons.If you don't have one - a thin cardboard can do the same
3. the DNA40 have bigger chip on back so the black cap will need some drilling to make it fit
4. better wires will be needed as 20AWG will do (18AWG is too thick to fit in the holes if tinned with solder)

Putting all together is the tricky part. Mind that the DNA40's buttons are smaller , but if you push the board close enough it shouldn't be a problem with protruding them enough.

If can be of any help just tag me guys and will help as much as I can.
Cheers

If you use silicon insulated wire, if your not you should ideally: tin before you strip the insulation and they will fit, you just heat the end while feeding in solder, cut the tip off and pull the insulation back as far as the solder got.

[-V-]

Bad news, the DNA 40 board arrived but it doesn't match the way the buttons are on this ZNA, the fire button is way lower on the DNA 40 board than the other board so the switch won't reach it...
The DNA 40 board is also not as wide so it's kind of floating around in there as there's gaps to the left and the right....

Not sure what to do now...need to think ...

[decoy]

can you not run a remote fire switch
and for insulating the board ie between the front of mod(were the button holes are)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251421814707?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108
or same thing but thinner then hot glue is your frend lol

[robby]

Dec 8, 2014 5:27:05 GMT -V- said:

Bad news, the DNA 40 board arrived but it doesn't match the way the buttons are on this ZNA, the fire button is way lower on the DNA 40 board than the other board so the switch won't reach it...
The DNA 40 board is also not as wide so it's kind of floating around in there as there's gaps to the left and the right....

Not sure what to do now...need to think ...

I thought you were using the original switches -V- and running wires to the DNA40.


EDIT .................It`s early lol, just got brain into gear and realised I was living up to my signature pic, that was the Zero wasn`t it with the extra board 

[robby]

Dec 8, 2014 5:27:05 GMT -V- said:

The DNA 40 board is also not as wide so it's kind of floating around in there as there's gaps to the left and the right....

Maybe some suitable strips of plastic the right thickness glued to the sides of where the DNA40 drops in? Sounds like you are going to have to extend the Fire button pusher somehow.

[-V-]

Dec 8, 2014 8:16:38 GMT robby said:

Dec 8, 2014 5:27:05 GMT -V- said:

The DNA 40 board is also not as wide so it's kind of floating around in there as there's gaps to the left and the right....

Maybe some suitable strips of plastic the right thickness glued to the sides of where the DNA40 drops in? Sounds like you are going to have to extend the Fire button pusher somehow.

Been playing a bit, I needed to raise the board too for the up and down buttons to work, so I have got 2 thin rails done for that, I've also got some packing for the sides, so now the board fits in snumg and the up and down buttons click like they should.

So the next thing is how to extend the length of the fire button half an inch..
See the pencil marks, the one closest to the button is about where the end of the extension needs to be..

[robby]

I dont know how much metal you have to play with but what about drilling a small hole from the direction of the pencil line into the end of the actuator and either threading it and using a screw or using a self tapper? After it is tightened up, you can dremel the screw head down maybe a little to give it a flat surface to push the button ............................ just thinkin out loud

[-V-]

It's very thin, so that wouldn't be possible, need to some how put a short plate on top of the plate switch to extend it...maybe supergluing the new bit of thin plate onto the existing plate switch...

[robby]

Dec 8, 2014 8:45:33 GMT -V- said:

It's very thin, so that wouldn't be possible, need to some how put a short plate on top of the plate switch to extend it...maybe supergluing the new bit of thin plate onto the existing plate switch...

If you can shape the bit of metal around the actuator like an empty box and then glue it, it will have more strength (maybe tin can metal? ).... so it will be like a sleeve

[-V-]

Dec 8, 2014 8:49:17 GMT robby said:

Dec 8, 2014 8:45:33 GMT -V- said:

It's very thin, so that wouldn't be possible, need to some how put a short plate on top of the plate switch to extend it...maybe supergluing the new bit of thin plate onto the existing plate switch...

If you can shape the bit of metal around the actuator like an empty box and then glue it, it will have more strength (maybe tin can metal? ).... so it will be like a sleeve

Not sure I understand that, can you draw me a picture?

[robby]

Cut a square bit from a tin can, enough to go around the actuator metal. Flatten it out and then bend it round the end of the actuator end (take your time and get it a snug fit) so it will be like a glove around the actuator metal. Just make sure it will end up long enough to operate the switch. Araldite or similar should be strong enough to stop it moving. It needs to be long enough to slip over the actuator metal and also work the switch button, if you need a pic, I`ll do one