DNA40 issues

[blakey]

Dec 31, 2014 17:05:05 GMT VapingBad said:

Good to hear you got it sorted @scooby.

I find much slower gunking to blakey, it just goes to show that we were overheating before and didn't know it. We probably vaped the coil surface dry more often in the past. Are you going to re-wick or re-coil those heads?

TBH mate, if they last that long between changes there's not really much point in re-wicking them




.

Didn't stop me going for it though

,
I just re-wicked the coil and replaced it, easy as rewicking a standard nautilus coil

[Deleted]

Dec 31, 2014 17:05:05 GMT VapingBad said:

Good to hear you got it sorted @scooby.

I find much slower gunking to blakey, it just goes to show that we were overheating before and didn't know it. We probably vaped the coil surface dry more often in the past. Are you going to re-wick or re-coil those heads?

I'm sure that I'm used to the flavour of over heated juice and carbonised deposits on the coil, even though It's normal for me to change a coil daily, even twice a day sometimes. Not sure how to describe the difference but the taste before was 'muddied' but are crystal clear now.  I think the slower gunking of coils is also a big bonus.

I've taken a standard one apart, they're quite challenging to rebuild but I'll have a go with one of these and see what sort of coils inside, maybe take some photo's when I do

[Deleted]

Dec 31, 2014 18:18:42 GMT blakey said:

Dec 31, 2014 17:05:05 GMT VapingBad said:

Good to hear you got it sorted @scooby.

I find much slower gunking to blakey, it just goes to show that we were overheating before and didn't know it. We probably vaped the coil surface dry more often in the past. Are you going to re-wick or re-coil those heads?

TBH mate, if they last that long between changes there's not really much point in re-wicking them




.

Didn't stop me going for it though

,
I just re-wicked the coil and replaced it, easy as rewicking a standard nautilus coil

But you didn't have to pay for them

[Greg]

Dec 31, 2014 18:41:33 GMT @scooby said:

Dec 31, 2014 18:18:42 GMT blakey said:

TBH mate, if they last that long between changes there's not really much point in re-wicking them




.

Didn't stop me going for it though

,
I just re-wicked the coil and replaced it, easy as rewicking a standard nautilus coil

But you didn't have to pay for them

Now your just splitting hairs 

[Deleted]

Dec 31, 2014 18:45:51 GMT Greg said:

Dec 31, 2014 18:41:33 GMT @scooby said:

But you didn't have to pay for them

Now your just splitting hairs 

If I could do that re-coiling the nautilus head would be a cinch 

[Greg]

Dec 31, 2014 18:48:43 GMT @scooby said:

Dec 31, 2014 18:45:51 GMT Greg said:

Now your just splitting hairs 

If I could do that re-coiling the nautilus head would be a cinch 

Why can't you recoil mate ?

[Deleted]

Dec 31, 2014 18:58:05 GMT Greg said:

Dec 31, 2014 18:48:43 GMT @scooby said:

If I could do that re-coiling the nautilus head would be a cinch 

Why can't you recoil mate ?

I doubt I'll be able to recall anything tomorrow!

[Deleted]

Just removed the 0.3ohm coil from the nautilus head VapingBad

The tails and the first 2/3 wraps at either end are 0.20mm. Not sure about the 7/8 wraps in the middle but look like 0.14-0.16 mm. Not sure of the inner dia as 2mm bit is to big and 1.5mm too small, possibly 5/64" 

Damaged it a little when removing and decrusting the wick material:



blakey can you run through your procedure for removing and refitting coil, how to clean off the original wicking material without damage to the coil and what wick you replace it with?

I cant do much with this one now, but thought I'd try Rips method of wrapping with moistened cotton, inserting in the head and then stuffing with more cotton from the top.

[VapingBad]

Interesting @scooby I wonder what the outer wire is it looks like nickel and this make me think the way to go with thin twisted in through hole connections is to weld the ends to a thicker wire. I might have to make a zapper.

[Deleted]

Yes VapingBad the thicker nickel makes more reliable and robust legs for better connections. I'm sure the main coil is thinner than 0.16 so very fragile and that's the reason for it.

So far, mainly due to lack of dexterity I have failed to wick a nickel coil and insert it vertically into the head.

I may drill through 2 juice holes and fit a horizontal coil, that's much more straight forward.

[blakey]

Jan 1, 2015 18:31:38 GMT @scooby said:

Yes VapingBad the thicker nickel makes more reliable and robust legs for better connections. I'm sure the main coil is thinner than 0.16 so very fragile and that's the reason for it.

So far, mainly due to lack of dexterity I have failed to wick a nickel coil and insert it vertically into the head.

I may drill through 2 juice holes and fit a horizontal coil, that's much more straight forward.

You need to keep the former in the coil whilst fitting, that'll keep it rigid enough to install.
Also bend the end of the leg back on itself and twist together to achieve thicker connection points.

[Deleted]

Dec 31, 2014 15:40:41 GMT @scooby said:

I've had a downer on the rDNA40 for the best part of the 4 weeks I've owned it. I got over poor NI wire, thought I'd perfected my coil building, checked every connection from the battery terminals to the posts, tried different coil and wick configurations and it still vaped like sh1te.

I was beating myself up about my coil building technique and inability to build a decent one, or rid myself of hot spot or shorts. Why was TP cutting the power and spoiling the vape? The vape from a premade 0.3ohm coil in a mini nautilus behaved the same as my own builds, little consolation as it was still a sh1te vape "it working correctly, that's what it's supposed to do, cut the power when the set temp is reached" they said. So why did I have to set an abnormally high temp or even turn it off to get a decent vape?

The penny dropped when I read a post by VapingBad Juice flow cools the coil but so does airflow My Spheroids have a tight draw which I like, all my AFC equipped atties were set similarly and there was just not enough air cooling the coil, so the power was cut with the resulting degrading effect on the quality of the vape.

With the airflow just about fully open the Squape R is a revelation, I get the flavour burst from the preheat and for the first time I can set a low/moderate temp for good flavour and maintain a steady power output to the coil.

Because of the very airy draw the way I was vaping seemed alien to me, but a couple of days in and it's second nature.

'Sometimes vaping is like a conjurers slight of hand trick in that it's too easy to focus on the part of the problem that isn't'    I'll remember that quote VapingBad DNA40 issues resolved

Glad you are getting it sorted mate.


Wish I read vaping bads quote regarding air flow and cooling, would of saved me day of my life testing to realise this.! 
Coil and wick in my kayfuns make very little difference for me , it's limited by its juice and air flow. My orchids pre heat at a full 40watts and temp protection never cuts in but I like a tight draw so need to use the juice to do the cooling, ie larger channels, hopefully that atty is in on its way to me. Can't be arsed to find my dremmel...! 

For others think car engine (coil) water in the cooling system (juice) and the radiator (air flow) limit the last two and your engine will blow up, or in our modern cars go into safe mode (dna40s temp protection....! ) 

Do not trust the temp readings for all our devices to be the same. I now have 2 DNA40's in different devices, Vaporflask and shark. Same coil, same wick, same atty base etc. room temp to get datum reading and about 30F difference between the two. Assuming the boards are accurate the only difference is the wiring and the 510 connections. electronics I will never understand but I do know they can monitor temp very accurately, the wiring used form the board, the 510 connection and the atty base I'm not so sure? 

[VapingBad]

The atty needs to be at the same temp as the board to properly calibrate, but after about a minute of use it goes into a refinement or fine calibration mode where it examines in detail how the resistance is changing and should get more accurate after you have put it down for a while and they have both cooled. They are only +/- 10° F accurate so your difference could just be that or the quality of connection, length and thickness of wiring or even just dirty connections.

[Deleted]

VapingBad

Ok mate, hopefully I'll find some time to play again later. Wasn't the most technical test, was using burn marks on cotton as my litmus strip.

[VapingBad]

Just seriously over nicked/nicced my self testing my theory that I can get a massive range of vape (in therms of volume of vapour per sec) while keeping the flavour on the Origenny @ 40 W. Took a couple of fast lung inhales with 10 mg (temp control didn't activate) and bang, but been vaping the same build and air flow with slower lung inhales @ 30 W for weeks.