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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 12:06:22 GMT
I still have major issues with my VaporShark DNA40 and I think returning it is imminent. Apart from the practicalities of building a coil to a expected resistance, fixing to the post with enough force to make good contact but not shear the Ni, all of which just take a little practice, these are my main issues. Dropping out of TP and reverting to volts. ALL my atties now have this problem. The TP works for a short time then seems for no reason to drop out. This can be rectified by unscrewing the atty, firing a few times, refitting the atty and resetting to 'same coil' but the same happens soon after. It can stay in TP for 10mins then just drop out, or just 2 or 4 puffs there's no consistency. Dry hits, I've had a few and they are not nice at all. Coil glowing red when firing with TP on after fitting the coil, same problem michnig mentioned in the other thread, this has happened twice. I've farted around with this for 2 days now and what should be a set and forget is just one big frigging pain. it works whatever you throw at it, but it's certainly not working as it should. I did a singe test last night and these are the results with a 5 sec fire: Not what I expected from what I've read of other peoples experience, not does it correspond with my earlier test when the singing happened at a much higher temp. I did another test this morning. Here is the setting, 280F (I'm firing hence the 0.7w) This is the result.: So while the mod was staying in TP at this time I put a Coil from another atty that was wet with juice and kept firing, again with it set at 280F That's not vapour, it's burning wick..... and here it is. I use twisted 0.2mm Ni wire, have tried spaced coils as I thought the twists maybe wouldn't make enough contact but same results. Tried single instead of twisted both contact and spaced, same results. I've wrapped the tails right round the screw, tightened them, tightened some more up to shearing the wire, adjusted everything but no joy. Only thing I can think of is the wire isn't appropriate, it is sold as N200 but who knows. But why dose the TP work, well intermittently, and why when it is obviously working and limiting to 280F still set the cotton alight?
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 3, 2014 12:14:48 GMT
Seems faulty to me Tom, the only thread I have come across that tries to list the early issues was here, I did see a blog post somewhere but have lost the link.
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Dec 3, 2014 12:15:24 GMT
where is your wire from @scooby?
I'll happily send you a selection of my nickel wire to see if you get on any better.
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 3, 2014 12:19:52 GMT
Seems faulty to me Tom, the only thread I have come across that tries to list the early issues was here, I did see a blog post somewhere but have lost the link. Dooh, put Tom, when I meant to put @scooby, sorry chaps.
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markm
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Post by markm on Dec 3, 2014 12:27:19 GMT
I can think of two ways to get this kind of problem. 1) a poor connection to the atty, if that is casing ANY added resistance it will confuse the chip.
2) if the atty is not cold when you fire it up for the first time it will confuse the chip, it need a first Cold reading to calculate the temp when operating
I don't know if either is relevant in this case, but it may help others.
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macmagoo
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Post by macmagoo on Dec 3, 2014 12:32:08 GMT
I would take the offer of some wire. IMHO I think it is your wire that is the problem.
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Tom
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Post by Tom on Dec 3, 2014 12:45:50 GMT
I would take the offer of some wire. IMHO I think it is your wire that is the problem. It is one of the constants between all of your builds. hopefully rule it out if nothing else.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 12:49:56 GMT
Cheers for all the help all. Checked, rechecked and re- rechecked all contact points. I heat to very dull red with TP off and low watts to check the coil then set back to temp and up the wats. Meanwhile I wick the coil and prime, that brings it to room temp. When I have to reset I select 'same coil' so should be no probs there. I really need to try some other wire before I take any drastic action because I think it maybe that. In fact the amount of time I've spent diligently making and fitting coils it can only be that or defect. My wire is from here in the left hand column scroll down to 'Nickel 200' and it's under 'bare nickel wire' Tom thanks for the very kind offer, I'll pm you.
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VapingBad
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Post by VapingBad on Dec 3, 2014 13:21:27 GMT
@scooby I can mail you some 0.16 mm & 0.2 mm Ni200 I got from the states, as it should be a different supply chain from VMC.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 13:29:54 GMT
Cheers VapingBad I've pm'd tom but I guess it's worth trying various wire.
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*-SARIN-*
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Post by *-SARIN-* on Dec 3, 2014 16:18:59 GMT
Been reading about a batch that was returned with faulty chips, similar to the issues with the flask?
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michnig
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Post by michnig on Dec 3, 2014 16:46:10 GMT
Hi @scooby, The only problem ive had with mine is when I tried to coil the Lemo I give up wth that one as I tried a further twice. on the 3 builds ive now got the VS Dna 40 is superb. Ive just tested my Plume Veil with new Japanese cotton, set at 430 and only the faintest browning of the cotton. Im using The vape mesh company 0.3 without issues, your welcome to try some if you want. Don't give up on the Dna40 im convinced this is a game changer, i just think we may be early pioneers..
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 17:39:20 GMT
I've said to some of the others already that I'm not feeling good at the moment, mainly because I have spent the best part of the last two days trying to sort this out, and been frustrated that I can't. It's good to feel some support here on the forum so thanks for that. *-SARIN-* I think that was early on and it was sorted quite quickly, I've also spent some time reading various pieces about DNA40 issues. I think and hope it's the wire I have causing the problem. Evolv have an excellent reputation for reliability so for the moment I'm keeping that in the forefront of my mind. michnig Yes I found the same regarding the singeing when I tested it on the day i received the VS, so the test above surprised me. I'd had two dry hits that also surprised me that's why I did it again. Thanks for the offer of the wire, very kind of you but VB and tom are sorting me with some. Not giving up just yet, everyone else seems happy with the way it's performing and I use the rDNA30 more than anything else. I've had odd glimpses of what it can do so I know there's something in there, it just needs unleashing.
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blakey
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Post by blakey on Dec 3, 2014 19:21:05 GMT
I'm very happy with mine to be honest But I will say that it can be quite tricky to get a stable coil in a tank attie. I've had some swearing and shouting here And I consider myself a pretty competent coil builder. One thing I did find out -the hard way was that the 510 contacts on the attie also have to be very clean and if possible any 510 adjustment screw tightened in as far as you can whilst still getting a good contact with the mod. Any slightly dodgy connections there will trick the dna chip into thinking that it is dealing with a fluctuating coil and confuse it into voltage mode. Also if the attie itself has a high resistance reading then the dna chip will find it hard to correctly work out the correct power to maintain coil temperature. I noticed on one of my squapes that a perfectly good build was working fine for a while but when I unscrewed it from the rdna and screwed it back on it went to voltage mode, it stayed on voltage mode till I tightened the adjustable center pin on the squape and refitted it again then all was well and the same coil is working fine still after 3 days even though the squape has been removed from the mod a few times. Clean the attie- tighten all the connections- if you build a micro coil then make sure the coils are all together flush- if you build a standard coil then make sure none of the wires are touching together anywhere and creating a short. Build the attie off of the mod and only fit to the mod when you're ready to test it, the dna constantly measures the coil so if it's built on mod then it will get an inaccurate reading. Hope you get it working for you
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2014 19:42:51 GMT
Just tried testing mine after reading this thread and got up to 450 before a very slight burn on the cotton, *then turned temp off and the cotton instantly caught alight, could of lit a cigarette off from it, remember them....! Anyway hence your board is doing some temp control, just not as accurate as it should be so the tried and tested wire being sent your way could be the answer. *dont do this it home kids, its dangerous and I don't have my children this week so it's my play and plug anything into anything test week...! As much as I won't be posting many pics of my beginners coil building skills, heres my firsts, straight of a screwdriver pinched cold. Had 3no. 4.5mils of red Astair though these all sucked dry, there is a slight burn to the cotton but look at the state of my coil, it's not you, it's the wire or the board. Next coil for me will be spaced as the slight cotton burn mark is where my crap coil was bunched. This is not a my vaporshark is working great and yours isn't mate, I feel your frustration. This is now my second, my first use to fire for as long as it felt like it all by self. Now my second did this today, had it since Monday, could of done it loadsbefore as you can't see the srcreen while vaping. It goes back to normal after sleep mode. For anyone who had trouble with the first batch is this it or something else I should be concerned about, do I need a f**king 3rd...love this device but vapoursharks OC is s**t.
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