The Slackers except Windows thread . . . .

[geordie_vaper]

Jan 6, 2015 12:58:34 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 6, 2015 12:23:16 GMT geordie_vaper said:

dual 26650 dna40 beast

dual 26650 dna40 brick

dna40 breeze block

[VapingBad]

Jan 6, 2015 13:09:31 GMT @letsavit said:

Jan 6, 2015 12:58:34 GMT VapingBad said:

dual 26650 dna40 brick

It will be a brick as I will just order the biggest box to give me as much space for first build..! 

Also needs to be dual as a vape 10+ on juice a day, some days it feels like im I'm charging batteries slower than im vaping.....! 

Which leads one onto my next question...charging. 

If you are seriously considering 26650 find or plan to make battery holders before ordering the box, they are like hen's teeth.

[Deleted]

Jan 6, 2015 12:40:30 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 6, 2015 12:33:59 GMT @letsavit said:

Yep it will be dual beast. 

Anyone done a wiring schematic for me to look at? 

Thank you. 

Charging and how I do it I need help on. My flask pulls 500mah and is painfully slow. My shark with zip charging (whatever that is) don't want to know 500mah, the firebutton led just flickers, 1amp fine. Tested other night and it pulled 1.6 amps at first then lowered untill done.  Want to integrate wireless charging into this so will need to to add a led (assumming a resistor) so I can see it is charging, straight to the DNA board or via a usb board? 

Ill draw something up when have time and issue to yourself for approval...! 

Edit. From memory the wireless receivers output 1amp so want to use all this safely, think the DNA spec said 500mah but is that the first board? the vapour shark is telling me otherwise.  

[Deleted]

Jan 6, 2015 13:12:27 GMT geordie_vaper said:

Jan 6, 2015 12:58:34 GMT VapingBad said:

dual 26650 dna40 brick

dna40 breeze block

ha ha  breeze block, might we'll be! I also want it wide enough for the larger fat daddy connection and my sub tank and other future large tanks.

Home use only this one, as long as my arm don't ache from vaping then it's passed its specification....

il be back here and looking at modmaker later.....

back to work.  

[Deleted]

Jan 6, 2015 13:19:11 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 6, 2015 13:09:31 GMT @letsavit said:

It will be a brick as I will just order the biggest box to give me as much space for first build..! 

Also needs to be dual as a vape 10+ on juice a day, some days it feels like im I'm charging batteries slower than im vaping.....! 

Which leads one onto my next question...charging. 

If you are seriously considering 26650 find or plan to make battery holders before ordering the box, they are like hen's teeth.

Ok 26650 think may be pushing my luck on first build....!  means buying more battery's too This. Parallel battery 18g wire? Copper strips? 

Right got to do some work or I'll have no money to buy the stuff...! 

[Deleted]

Jan 6, 2015 12:41:23 GMT VapingBad said:

9 is charger +, 12 is charger -

you only need one ground to the board 8 & 11 if you 510 is grounded by the body

Emailed evolv with regards to using 9+ 12- and what the screen does while charging and also the spec of the latest board with regards to amps, 500mah is too slow for me charging duel batteries, their web site still has spec for first gen board. Will they reply, I'm not from China....? 

My VF & VS are using usb, wireless and led's to indicate, do I need to follow? Don't want to take apart to look how they are wired if I don't have to. 

Has anyone wired to 9+ 12- what does the screen do while charging? 

[Deleted]

Jan 3, 2015 14:48:14 GMT VapingBad said:

Power it up & test it before snipping the sides or soldering just in case.

As you said the Hana is the easiest, -V- recently put one (small screen) in a ZNA clone and has a build thread here, but I have not seen the inside of a slug and don't know if it will fit. Custom made box would be best as you will have a one off that you will love, Evolv have the 3D models on their site for download. If you fancied building a wooden squonker these look like a bargain and if you don't like it geordie_vaper would probably snap it up, mod maker have FD squonking 510 kits.

Take your time and good luck.

3D models, have you got a link mate, not being lazy have been looking, just stupid can't find the download? 

[VapingBad]

Jan 6, 2015 20:41:32 GMT @letsavit said:

Jan 6, 2015 12:41:23 GMT VapingBad said:

9 is charger +, 12 is charger -

you only need one ground to the board 8 & 11 if you 510 is grounded by the body

Emailed evolv with regards to using 9+ 12- and what the screen does while charging and also the spec of the latest board with regards to amps, 500mah is too slow for me charging duel batteries, their web site still has spec for first gen board. Will they reply, I'm not from China....? 

My VF & VS are using usb, wireless and led's to indicate, do I need to follow? Don't want to take apart to look how they are wired if I don't have to. 

Has anyone wired to 9+ 12- what does the screen do while charging? 

Using those 3 holes on the board is electrically the same as connecting directly to the battery.

I 99.9 % sure the screen doesn't change at all when charging as the main board and charging are stand-alone modules that don't comunicate, deffo doesn't on the 30, I didn't bother putting a charging board in my 40 as I can charge 4 VTC4s in 70 mins with 2 Xtar SP2 chargers and find it makes life much eaiser for me YMMV.  There are normal coloured LEDs on the charger boards to show the charge status

You can get 1 A charging boards for a little over £1, but they are quite long, mod make had some 0.7 A very small USB charging boards recently.

Not looked at wireless, but I expect that you connect the power from the receiver to the back USB socket and still use a USB charging board, there must be a dedicated circuit to control the charging.

[VapingBad]

Jan 6, 2015 20:44:08 GMT @letsavit said:

Jan 3, 2015 14:48:14 GMT VapingBad said:

Power it up & test it before snipping the sides or soldering just in case.

As you said the Hana is the easiest, -V- recently put one (small screen) in a ZNA clone and has a build thread here, but I have not seen the inside of a slug and don't know if it will fit. Custom made box would be best as you will have a one off that you will love, Evolv have the 3D models on their site for download. If you fancied building a wooden squonker these look like a bargain and if you don't like it geordie_vaper would probably snap it up, mod maker have FD squonking 510 kits.

Take your time and good luck.

3D models, have you got a link mate, not being lazy have been looking, just stupid can't find the download? 

It just says this "Evolv has 3D models of the DNA 40 available on their website in IGES, STL and Solidworks format." on pg 13 of the data sheet, but I can't see where the downloads are, maybe they are updaing them for the big screen.

[Deleted]

Ok mate, I'll send them another email. Really don't want to be mixing business and pleasure but if I can get the board in CAD I will be able to up do a schematic for myself and others in little time.

[Deleted]

Jan 6, 2015 20:59:54 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 6, 2015 20:41:32 GMT @letsavit said:

Emailed evolv with regards to using 9+ 12- and what the screen does while charging and also the spec of the latest board with regards to amps, 500mah is too slow for me charging duel batteries, their web site still has spec for first gen board. Will they reply, I'm not from China....? 

My VF & VS are using usb, wireless and led's to indicate, do I need to follow? Don't want to take apart to look how they are wired if I don't have to. 

Has anyone wired to 9+ 12- what does the screen do while charging? 

Using those 3 holes on the board is electrically the same as connecting directly to the battery.

I 99.9 % sure the screen doesn't change at all when charging as the main board and charging are stand-alone modules that don't comunicate, deffo doesn't on the 30, I didn't bother putting a charging board in my 40 as I can charge 4 VTC4s in 70 mins with 2 Xtar SP2 chargers and find it makes life much eaiser for me YMMV.  There are normal coloured LEDs on the charger boards to show the charge status

You can get 1 A charging boards for a little over £1, but they are quite long, mod make had some 0.7 A very small USB charging boards recently.

Not looked at wireless, but I expect that you connect the power from the receiver to the back USB socket and still use a USB charging board, there must be a dedicated circuit to control the charging.

Thank you.. I basically asked evolv what these connections and their usb board offer me, do they talk? But reading your first sentence I think you're 99.9 right, they offer me nothing.... 

going for 2 parallel for longer life is never going be "pocket friendly" so size is a non issue with regards to usb charger board or anything else I wanna stick in there , also need to be big enough for the receiver card, borrowed from the phone world.....Just Emailed modmaker with regards to size of magnets as their drawings don't size the counter sunk hole sizes, so yes will be able to remove and batteries and charge. Do I need wireless charging , no, do I want it yes.....! It's new to me and a novelty.,

I can simply plug a wireless receiver into a usb charger board internally (was going to protect board anyhow) then straight to the battery sled. What im trying to get my head around is indication to myself iv placed it on the pad correctly, it's taking a charge and when finished. If the screen tells me then all ok, if not I need to see the usb boards led but the USB connector itself  gets in the way so I need to add another circuit to a led, on a switch maybe. Can cut out hole in box for the mini usb totally buts that's too easy and I don't need mini usb charging, I got (hopefully) magic charging......!  

[VapingBad]

@letsavit for charge indication you can use fibre optic (I have some 0.7 or 0.8 mm somewhere I can give you) to relay the light to the casing I did it in these two builds custom box, hana box. The holes on the board are just for convenience and do make the wiring easier.

[Deleted]

Jan 7, 2015 10:52:26 GMT VapingBad said:

@letsavit for charge indication you can use fibre optic (I have some 0.7 or 0.8 mm somewhere I can give you) to relay the light to the casing I did it in these two builds custom box, hana box. The holes on the board are just for convenience and do make the wiring easier.

Thanks mate..

Decided to have USB charging as well so can just use that light for charging indication, decision made only today as I'm not sure on the dna40's battery meter, got caught short today with the shark, half battery went to nothing in about 2mil of juice. No change of coil, watts etc, same tank from the start. Cars usb charger got used hence my decision, micro USB is pretty universal for when/if this mod leaves the house. 

Ordered This as its 1amp and got input for the wireless receiver, can't see where the LEDs are but I assuming if I just give it 1amp without wired they will light up to tell me what I need to cut/drill. 

Got a reply from modmaker with regards to magnets for the box so just ordered all my stuff, awaiting a reply from elvov........

One more question mate for what I need to order then I'm good to go when it all gets here. 

Glue/tape. What do you recomended, I am thinking for the screen and DNA40 board to keep it sort of removal, ie if this goes well and I want to do another, maybe smaller like yours or wood and metal like I'm seeing in the mod shop section i don't really need another DNA40... anyway it would be nice to get out without damage. Double sided tape for the board, some sort of tape the screen? Glue for the usb/ battery holder can be solid, they can stay. Also thinking longer wires than i need from/to the board so just cut it out and resolder to the new.  

although I have done some research you have steered me and saved me some time....thank you. 

[VapingBad]

I have used those charging boards, they are quite long and take up a lot of room, also there are terminals each side of the USB you can attach 5 V input that might be good for wireless supply. The LEDs are the 2 white blocks of the left of the picture.

Not so sure of what to stick it in with to easily get it apart, I used sugru which you can cut quite easily, 3M double sided tape for iPod screens, super glue and epoxy. Lots of people use hot glue or a cradle maybe worth looking for @darthpistachio makes some that look good for the DNA40 in a Hana box, but I don't know if they take the bigger screen.

[Deleted]

Jan 8, 2015 10:27:11 GMT VapingBad said:

I have used those charging boards, they are quite long and take up a lot of room, also there are terminals each side of the USB you can attach 5 V input that might be good for wireless supply. The LEDs are the 2 white blocks of the left of the picture.

Not so sure of what to stick it in with to easily get it apart, I used sugru which you can cut quite easily, 3M double sided tape for iPod screens, super glue and epoxy. Lots of people use hot glue or a cradle maybe worth looking for @darthpistachio makes some that look good for the DNA40 in a Hana box, but I don't know if they take the bigger screen.

I'll look into a cradle and have a nosy at the glue etc down the high street, thanks. Yes it's the inputs that will hopefully work for the wireless receiver, which without doubt needs to go through a USB board, wireless magic charging jumps all over the place...! One transmitter is going straight in the bin and I think I need to cheat and have a little help from an electrical engineer to test the CE rating on what I decide to use. 

do NOT recommend, big disclaimer here."....."................links via PM only if interested. 





glue and I think im ready to go..