The Slackers except Windows thread . . . .

[Deleted]

Why didn't anyone tell me wireless charging doesn't work through a thick bit of alloy called a Hammond box........

Run out of time and need to research/test more does reflection play a part? at the moment it's looking like its simply too bloody thick, bit like it's new user........

Plan B......Cut a hole
Plan C......get someone to thin a section.
Plan D......get another box
Plan E......sack wireless off

Maybe E and be happy if my first just boots up....!

[Deleted]

Got all my bits n bobs.
The dna30 to 40 challenge begins tomorrow

[VapingBad]

I've got the bits to build another as well and may make a start on Sunday.

[Deleted]

Bett you both beat me, hangover day today so done nought....!

[Deleted]

I know what @windows is doing, what you building VapingBad

[VapingBad]

Jan 10, 2015 21:03:38 GMT @letsavit said:

I know what @windows is doing, what you building VapingBad

More or less the same as the last one, I am thinning the body from 20.1 mm to 19.6 mm ATM, its 19.82 - 19.78 thisck so still squaring off, takes bloody ages on wet n dry on a granite worktop saver.

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2015 21:03:38 GMT @letsavit said:

I know what @windows is doing, what you building VapingBad

I tell you what ive been doing @letsavit and VapingBad frying 45 quids worth of effin chip.
Spent the day doing the swap. Had it all wired up and working fine. Went to fit it all back in the box and all was going great until i discovered that i needed to unsolder one wire and re route it to get the lid on. Resoldered and its died. Nothing, dead as a effin dodo. Checked all the soldered connections and everything is solid. Only thing i can think is that I've applied to much heat somewhere and fryed it.
Im so  

[Deleted]

@windows

That's s**t mate, your time and money.

edit. Walk away , crack a beer and have fresh look tomorrow, see if  VapingBad  can advise something.. 

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2015 23:44:29 GMT @letsavit said:

@windows

That's s**t mate, your time and money.

edit. Walk away , crack a beer and have fresh look tomorrow, see if  VapingBad  can advise something.. 

Tell me about it. Was so looking forward to having a more pocket friendly 40. Also chuffed that i had proved that it will work ok in the 30 box.
Really wanted to get into mod building but i cant afford too many f@@k ups like this at 45 quid a pop.

[VapingBad]

The first DNA30 I did I had put much more heat to it soldering than it should take and it was fine, if I were you @windows I would leave it until tomorrow and then go through and check everything again.

Unlike the DNA30 once wired up nothing happens until pressing fire, try pressing the button on the board and see it that lights the screen, if it doesn't check the battery connections, if they are OK put a dripper on see if you get any voltage on the out put when you fire (it will be minus volts). IIRC you are putting a 30 into a 40, have you either disconnected the button LED or changed the way it connected like on the ECF thread.

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2015 23:53:46 GMT @windows said:

Jan 10, 2015 23:44:29 GMT @letsavit said:

@windows

That's s**t mate, your time and money.

edit. Walk away , crack a beer and have fresh look tomorrow, see if  VapingBad  can advise something.. 

Tell me about it. Was so looking forward to having a more pocket friendly 40. Also chuffed that i had proved that it will work ok in the 30 box.
Really wanted to get into mod building but i cant afford too many f@@k ups like this at 45 quid a pop.

I haven't done mine so still really don't know what to advise mate but might be worth taking all out and just testing the basics. Ie just run power to it, nothing else, assuming thats all it needs to light it up? Hopefully vapingbad will be along. 

I have also shorted a DNA clone board via the atty, it got hot and screen went out, half hour later it came back to life. 

Edit; vaping bad is here...

[VapingBad]

I'm here, got my bit of ali down to 19.60 mm, worn out 2 sheets of 1000 wet n dry and got rsi. I thought I fried a DNA30 once after changing the screen I snapped, but I just didn't allow enough time for it to power up. The 40 won't light up for the first time until you press fire.

[Deleted]

Jan 10, 2015 23:58:48 GMT VapingBad said:

The first DNA30 I did I had put much more heat to it soldering than it should take and it was fine, if I were you @windows I would leave it until tomorrow and then go through and check everything again.

Unlike the DNA30 once wired up nothing happens until pressing fire, try pressing the button on the board and see it that lights the screen, if it doesn't check the battery connections, if they are OK put a dripper on see if you get any voltage on the out put when you fire (it will be minus volts). IIRC you are putting a 30 into a 40, have you either disconnected the button LED or changed the way it connected like on the ECF thread.

Ah i think you might have hit on how ive knackered it. I forgot that i had read that somewhere that you cant connect the button led the same way as in the 30 and like a pratt i did.
Do you think by doing that ive fried something.

[VapingBad]

Jan 11, 2015 0:09:27 GMT @windows said:

Jan 10, 2015 23:58:48 GMT VapingBad said:

The first DNA30 I did I had put much more heat to it soldering than it should take and it was fine, if I were you @windows I would leave it until tomorrow and then go through and check everything again.

Unlike the DNA30 once wired up nothing happens until pressing fire, try pressing the button on the board and see it that lights the screen, if it doesn't check the battery connections, if they are OK put a dripper on see if you get any voltage on the out put when you fire (it will be minus volts). IIRC you are putting a 30 into a 40, have you either disconnected the button LED or changed the way it connected like on the ECF thread.

Ah i think you might have hit on how ive knackered it. I forgot that i had read that somewhere that you cant connect the button led the same way as in the 30 and like a pratt i did.
Do you think by doing that ive fried something.

I wouldn't think that would kill the DNA as current won't go in the wrong direction through a LED, I would disconnect it and see where that gets you.  I haven't had a VS so am guessing here.

[Deleted]

Jan 11, 2015 0:12:21 GMT VapingBad said:

Jan 11, 2015 0:09:27 GMT @windows said:

Ah i think you might have hit on how ive knackered it. I forgot that i had read that somewhere that you cant connect the button led the same way as in the 30 and like a pratt i did.
Do you think by doing that ive fried something.

I wouldn't think that would kill the DNA as current won't go in the wrong direction through a LED, I would disconnect it and see where that gets you.  I haven't had a VS so am guessing here.

Tried it disconnected. Also tried pressing the fire button, nothing. Think ive killed it.