dickyg
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Post by dickyg on Feb 25, 2015 21:43:17 GMT
Ash has told me to return for a refund. Good service again.
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 9:27:29 GMT
All these mods going back will make them more of a rarity. Wonder how much working ones will be worth, with their batteries, in 6 months time.
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jmw2309
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Post by jmw2309 on Feb 26, 2015 9:32:55 GMT
Right, to throw a spanner in, I have a purple efest in mine. I have an atlantis on top @30w. The battery level line is hardly visible but it has not dropped the wattage. I did reset it before I put the battery in.
I do however note a pause in the firing when I hold the button to vape for more than 5 or 6 seconds. Wtf is going on with this thing I don't know!
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 9:39:26 GMT
Right, to throw a spanner in, I have a purple efest in mine. I have an atlantis on top @30w. The battery level line is hardly visible but it has not dropped the wattage. I did reset it before I put the battery in. I do however note a pause in the firing when I hold the button to vape for more than 5 or 6 seconds. Wtf is going on with this thing I don't know! If it's pausing for a time it may be that you're hitting the 'weak battery' and it needs charging. I've been a little OCD on this and I've seen the battery meter drop when firing then recover after - even with a good battery. Yay to the 'efest' - is that the '35Amp'? I'll wager it's still going back though!!
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 9:44:20 GMT
As an aside - the battery metering issue. Batteries get rejected 'weak battery' at or around 3.4 Volts, where they should be. We've seen when we plug the charger in it shows around 25% charge.
The meter in the display reflects the usable power left in the battery, whereas the charge reading seems to be calibrated around 2.8 Volts for some reason - a 2.9Volt battery shows as 6% and a 2.8 shows 0%, rising to 2% after just one minute charging.
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jmw2309
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Post by jmw2309 on Feb 26, 2015 9:52:09 GMT
Yes 35 a @ripshop. Have just chucked a freshly charged purple in and am giving it a right old vape up to see what happens
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jmw2309
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Post by jmw2309 on Feb 26, 2015 9:55:15 GMT
Yes 35a @ripshop. Have just chucked a freshly charged purple in and am giving it a right old vape up to see what happens.
The problem is I like how it feels in the hand and when fully charged it works very well.....
As an aside on my ipv2 the battery meter drops out completely when firing then come back when the button is released so I assume this is normal behaviour?
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 9:59:44 GMT
As an aside on my ipv2 the battery meter drops out completely when firing then come back when the button is released so I assume this is normal behaviour? Would seem so, just seen my hana clone (HE4) do the same. I presume it's down to voltage sag, I've never actually watched them while vaping before. eFest 35Amp = LG HE2. See how it goes m8. If it's better then I'd be cautious with that VTC5. (I didn't like saying that, we all trust that vendor)
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jmw2309
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Post by jmw2309 on Feb 26, 2015 10:07:36 GMT
I was thinking that about the vtc5 my self but also hate to say that. I don't for a minute think it to be anything other than genuine but I am sure it shouldn't be 'outperformed' by the efest.
I just think this mod might just have some personality issues.....
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moodyb
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Post by moodyb on Feb 26, 2015 15:11:24 GMT
Are the people having the reducing wattage / jumping ohms problem using rebuildable tanks / drippers on their Smok?
Only reason I'm asking is that I just tried my Origen Genisis v2 clone on it & I'm getting the same problems with a single coil cotton build, at anything between 10-20 watts. Ohms jump from 1 ohm all the way to 4.5 ohms, randomly.
Sometimes it'll show the ohms jumping around continuously, other times it'll fire fine for a while then reduce the wattage / change the ohms.
Most Origen Genisis v2 clones are know for having shorting / connection issues & it appears mine isn't any different sadly.
Now if I use my dripper, Sat22 clone or Ego One 2.5ml tank, I don't have any problems other than when the Smok is cold to touch - i.e first thing in the morning.
Then it'll drop 5 watts on firing as others have mentioned.
So maybe the problem some are actually having is really with the build in their tank / dripper or the tank itself, and not the Smok?
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jmw2309
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Post by jmw2309 on Feb 26, 2015 15:14:33 GMT
Mine is with atlantis and subtank mainly....
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 15:19:09 GMT
Noone has mentioned varying ohms up til now. That would definitely cause problems. Mine has shown 0.3ohms since the day I got it and built my fogger for it. If ohms was to jump upwards when firing you'd burn the juice(?)
Cold definitely would cause a problem by increasing voltage sag on the battery. But the question is how cold? If it's room temperature it shouldn't be causing a problem as that's roughly the point performance starts to drop with the temperature. The batteries are specced at either 20o or 23o, I know LG test their batteries at 23o, plus or minus a couple.
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River
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Post by River on Feb 26, 2015 15:25:48 GMT
Throw another spanner in the works.I have a smok BT50 and every now and again the ohms will go to 2.0OHMS for no apparent reason I do my coils around 1.2-1.4. i test all tanks on dna30 mod and coiling mod.ive tried resetting with no joy.but all of a sudden it will revert back to correct ohms any ideas???
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Ripshod
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Post by Ripshod on Feb 26, 2015 15:27:44 GMT
No idea River, but this ohms business is news to me. With the sprung 510 (does the BT50 have a sprung 510?) and what I've seen of the wiring it shouldn't happen, or at least it shouldn't be cause by the mods. We already know things can happen to an atty on one mod, when it doesn't on another. Look at the bother we had with TC on the DNA40.
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River
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Post by River on Feb 26, 2015 15:29:31 GMT
Yep it has te 510 sprung pin
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